somedude_001
SHO Member
i used to play CS back when i had time to do stuff. but now i drive a boosted SHO so i'm either putting gas init or working to afford gas. 
turbo ATX update thread no 56K
- Thread starter somedude_001
- Start date
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HotRodKid said:from the local BBQ @ letchorth state park... the tauri wound up in a few shots of the cars
turbo SHO is the 6th car down, such a hot line up ...
i wound up about here -------------VVV-----on the tressle ... such an amazing view of the gorge from up there
Awesome pictures... Especially since I spy one of my favorite 951s, that is a beautiful car, he posts over at rennlist.. small world.
Axianator
I am a banana!
Lookin' good, Alex! 
It is just me or does that FPS tranny seem to slip a little on the 1-2 at WOT?
It is just me or does that FPS tranny seem to slip a little on the 1-2 at WOT?
HotRodKid
mmmmm ... turbo
no slippage that ive noticed
somedude_001
SHO Member
Axianator said:Lookin' good, Alex!
It is just me or does that FPS tranny seem to slip a little on the 1-2 at WOT?
the line pressure is not highenough to handle the HP i'm making. I have it set at 35psi at WOT so I called FPS and asked how high i could take it. they said to keep bumping it up 5 psi untill i'm satisfied.
SeanMc
NoMoSHO
SHO Dude said:
How high is the stall?
somedude_001
SHO Member
its not making that much power is it? only 10psi?
edit:stock stall
Axianator
I am a banana!
Yes, but I figured your "bulletproof" trannies would shift faster than what I saw in his video. OTOH, I've always felt that it's better to leave shift firmness adjustments to the end-user rather than use a "one size fits all" firmness strategy straight out-of-the-box.SHO Dude said:
Maybe so, but the converter (and it's stall) has nothing to do with how fast the tranny shifts at WOT.SHO Dude said:
Gotcha.somedude_001 said:
Don't forget that you can also modify the values in your Engine Torque table to adjust the amount of base (or "static capacity") line pressure that is commanded by the EEC. Properly executed, this will help to close the line pressure gap during a shifting event by bringing your base line pressure closer to the (additional) amount of dynamic line pressure that you are commanding for that particular shift (or in your case, the 1-2 shift). The one thing to keep in mind about this type of modification, though, is that any modifications you make to the Engine Torque table will affect all of the torque calculations across the board, including those used for a shifting event.
That said, I would suggest one of the following methods for modifying your Engine Torque table:
a) enter a value of 300 into the top two rows (80% and 95% engine load) of your Engine Torque table from 2000-6000 RPMs, working your way up in increments of 24 from there if the initial value of 300 proves to be insufficient, like so:
D4U1 Engine Torque Table - top two rows with 300
b) using the original factory values, multiply the top two rows (80% and 95% engine load) of your Engine Torque table from 2000-6000 RPMs in 10% (or 1.10) increments until you notice a difference in firmness across the board, like so:
D4U1 Engine Torque Table - top two rows plus 10%
Remember - the Engine Torque table works in conjuction with the other tranny-related tables and functions (most of which are not accessible with the current TwEECer software) to help the EEC calculate and command the appropriate amount of line pressure for a given situation or circumstance. Consequently, you should make your Engine Torque table adjustments slowly and with respect to all of the other shifting events so that you don't produce an undesired result in the tranny's overall shifting behavior.
somedude_001
SHO Member
would adjusting the torque tables affect the engine's tune? or is this a transmission torque table? also the TC does not like to stay locked on the highway. this has been a issue that the car has had for about 3 trannies (3 years) so i know it in the programing somewhere. also it unlocks the TC early durring tip in which is very anoying. the way i see it is if i want it to rev higher i'll floor it, there isn't much partial throttle on my car because it agervates me off when the TC is unlocked.
the numbers your asking me to change, what do they represent.
what do X and Y represent on that graph (obviously X is RPM)
the numbers your asking me to change, what do they represent.
what do X and Y represent on that graph (obviously X is RPM)
1slickRED89
Guest
SHO Dude said:
it takes what feels like 2 full secondsto shift from 1->2, I checked. (in reality probably more like 300 msec)(2->3 is pretty solid/quick though)
I think this sensation of long shifts is just highlight because the driver has nothing to do during a shift, except wait.
'charged ATXs don't even "WHOOOSH" between shifts, just when you let off. how are ricers going to know your car is boosted!?!
somedude_001
SHO Member
its difficult becasue i can't get a loud BOV off of a rev or even if it is loud open exhaust owns me.
well i'm off to drive the SHO *puts ear muffs on* oh and BTW it already has 2K on it boosted
Axianator
I am a banana!
While the Engine Torque table is utilized by the EEC for most of it's torque calculations, most of these calculations are only used by the '93-'95 ATX calibrations for computing line pressure and other transmission-related variables.somedude_001 said:
Since you don't have access to any of the converter functions or parameters with the latest version of the TwEECer software, I find it somewhat unlikely that your lockup problem actually lies with the contents of your program.somedude_001 said:
Out of curiosity, have you:
a) tried writing your program from scratch using another D4U1 image?
b) swapped PCMs to see if that alleviates or eliminates the problem?
The values displayed in the Engine Torque table indicate engine torque at MBT (Maximum Brake Torque, or the amount of spark advance required to achieve maximum torque for a given RPM) and are displayed in lb/ft.somedude_001 said:
The X-axis (columns) represents normalized engine speed (RPM) whereas the Y-axis (rows) represents normalized engine load.somedude_001 said:
Simple.1slickRED89 said:
1. Hold the tranny in the gear of your choice (second usually works best).
2. Apply light to moderate amount of throttle to raise the engine speed.
3. Release the throttle and allow the engine to brake itself for a few seconds.
Repeat as often as needed.
Last edited:
Lupo
New Member
somedude_001 said:
For now, I would recommend simply letting the crankcase and valvecover PCV ports breath freely. It's not ideal, but it's safe.
Even with a checkvalve to not pressurize the crankcase, the crankcase still needs to vent pressure out at WOT, epecially with boost creating more blowby. It is possible that you can still blow out your oil seals even with the checkvalves in place.
Just tee the 2 ports to a small breather.
somedude_001
SHO Member
Lupo said:
i put a chack valve on the bottom of the TB so it will still draw vaccume to suck some of that garbage (mostly gas) out of the crank case while the other is vented. after a couple of har pulls the car smells like a gas leak and the breather is dripping what seems to be fuel vapor... oh well i guess that what i get for runninga 218K (i hit 218K the other day) engine with boost. I will get a catch can on it for next season.
i'll play with the tables tonight and see how it goes. part of the TC lockout might be tranny temp. i'm running a very large cooler and in teh city it sits around 150 on the highway its <120 i'll reinstall my thermostat and see if that helps.
RJ-92
Active Member
somedude_001 said:
I bet some of that can be contributed to how rich the car is running. And the SS injectors don't spray in the proper stream for complete fuel atomization either. Get that bish tuned and it'll be better.
HotRodKid
mmmmm ... turbo
^^^^ thats why i wanna hack up the accel's so they fit... might as well use the basstards
somedude_001
SHO Member
if you can make them fit do it nick *gulp*
MotorMouth
Love that V8!
On most (if not all) turbo cars the crank case vacuum is pulled from ahead of the compressor side. Mabyee something as simple as putting a barbed fitting into the side of the filter and running a 5/8" or so line to the crank case to pull a vacuum may help.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
HotRodKid
mmmmm ... turbo
we just have it this way for simplicity for now
when i build the exhaust, ill put a fitting in so that exhaust velocity is what clears out the crankcase, keping the oil slick away from the turbo, intercooler, BOV and Maf
ive never liked the idea of coating the compressor on the turbo in crap from the breather. that turbo spins at 100,000 rpm, and i would rather have it stay balanced factory perfect
no reason to coat a precision part (no pun intended) in stuff your trying to get rid of
when i build the exhaust, ill put a fitting in so that exhaust velocity is what clears out the crankcase, keping the oil slick away from the turbo, intercooler, BOV and Maf
ive never liked the idea of coating the compressor on the turbo in crap from the breather. that turbo spins at 100,000 rpm, and i would rather have it stay balanced factory perfect
no reason to coat a precision part (no pun intended) in stuff your trying to get rid of
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