Trying Not To Let Maintainance Build Up. Help Diag. and Decide

[SHO_ROLLER_2]

This SHO has been sitting for the past two years so I'm trying to figure out what I should do. I know the PS pump needs to be replace along with (I think) a MM.

There are a few things though that I'm not sure if I should mess with. You know, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

1. The trans whines a little bit. Not very loud and I know the tech that replaced it put the right fluid in. Should I flush and replace with Synthetic?

2. The motor has roughly 210-220K miles on it. It has had Mobile 1 since 90K miles. Should I do RB's or just save money and pick up a motor? She's not making ay wierd sounds right now and I can't see breaking it apart if there's not even a problem. Might do more harm than good.............

3. When I run her to redline, I notice quite a bit of carbon blowing out the back. I don't have any cats, so..........normal?

4. I don't believe much of the suspension has been done. Where do I start? I already have SFB's and the shocks/struts are still good.

5. When I first start it up in the morning, she sputters a bit but smooths out when she warms up. Anything to worry about?


I'm just trying to prevent all kinds of stuff dumping on me at once. AND I'm a bit of a nutcase

Thanks for the help!!:wave::thankyou:

 

[hawkeye18]

1. Every MTX is different, and every MTX seems to like different fluid. Don't be afraid to replace the fluid with a different kind until you find one it likes. A lot of people seem to have luck with (correct me if I'm wrong) Valvoline ATF? I think that's it. It's been a while since I've heard about it.

2. Don't mess with it unless you see/hear the warning signs. Far more people have messed up their motor changing the rod bearings when it didn't need it than have actually found bad rod bearings.

3. Probably.

4. New LCAs and tie rod ends in the front will probably help a bit; if the struts/springs are still good I woouldn't worry about too much more for just maintenance.

5. Probably not. Might want to check the IAC - it might not be working real well when cold.

:wave:

 

[frosho]

1. Every MTX is different, and every MTX seems to like different fluid. Don't be afraid to replace the fluid with a different kind until you find one it likes. A lot of people seem to have luck with (correct me if I'm wrong) Valvoline ATF? I think that's it. It's been a while since I've heard about it.

I've used Valvoline High Mileage ATF with good results.

 

[walser]

1.

2. Don't mess with it unless you see/hear the warning signs. Far more people have messed up their motor changing the rod bearings when it didn't need it than have actually found bad rod bearings.



:wave:

ok my engine has to my knowledge 217k i was planning on rod bearings this winter... bad idea? i thought i would be on the safe side doing this...? and if i let off clutch slowly and give it no gas once the car is warmed up sometimes itll drop down to about 550-600 rpms and the oil light will come on for a second and then go out once it revs up just a little. is that normal?

 

[frosho]

Sounds normal.

If the rod bearings have 217k on them, I'd be inclined to change (or at least check) them.

 

[SHO_ROLLER_2]

Thanks for the help! I doubt I'll mess with the RB's. I've seen too many people come on here lately with bproblems AFTER they replace them. Hey, when they go out, they go out. I've got a lot of use out of this motor anyway.

Keep the advice comin'!

 

[JRA2000TL]

ok my engine has to my knowledge 217k i was planning on rod bearings this winter... bad idea? i thought i would be on the safe side doing this...? and if i let off clutch slowly and give it no gas once the car is warmed up sometimes itll drop down to about 550-600 rpms and the oil light will come on for a second and then go out once it revs up just a little. is that normal?

Yeah the oil light will come on if you bog the motor down like that. Don't do that. It's not good for it and will drop the oil pressure. I used to be too concerned with over revving and riding the clutch but after reading some posts here, bogging the motor is far worse. When I'm starting out I tend to give it more gas as I'd rather over rev the car and ride the clutch for a split second than to drop that oil pressure.

Once I get moved into my house (which has a garage!) I plan on trying to do them this winter. I was going to get help but I may try to do it myself as I need to learn.

 

[Winterhawk]

Ford Motor Company now recomends that the timing belt and valve adjustment is done every 100k miles, not at 60k miles. I have an insert in my owners manual for my 1993 ATX that states this.

 

[SHOmethewayhome]

but 60k sounds so much cooler than 100k...
my wallet agrees with you and your insert though

 

[hawkeye18]

MTX = 60K miles.

ATX = 100K miles.

It is much more difficult to mess with the engine in an ATX; the transmission will simply shift into a lower gear.

Edit: Also, the ATX has an automatic tensioner for the timing belt that keeps even tension for much longer (until it fails and gives no tension whatsoever...)

 

[Winterhawk]

I wonder if mine was ever done at 116,000 miles. Any clues on what to look for? I tried to find markings on bolts ect. Didn't see anything yet.

 

[walser]

Yeah the oil light will come on if you bog the motor down like that. Don't do that. It's not good for it and will drop the oil pressure. I used to be too concerned with over revving and riding the clutch but after reading some posts here, bogging the motor is far worse. When I'm starting out I tend to give it more gas as I'd rather over rev the car and ride the clutch for a split second than to drop that oil pressure.

.

yea the only time it happens is when im at light or stop sign ill let it out realy slow and just creep up, i dont do it that often but i was just curious about it. thank you!