Trouble starting.... amongst other things

[haydenm315]

My car has recently developed some starting problems that I need some advice on. Instead of registering between 300-400rpms when cranking before firing, the tach sometimes jumps upwards of 1000-1500rpms. It doesn't seem to start on these cranks and doesn't sound to be firing when the tach is moving like that. I've also noticed that my alpine head unit has been reseting itself when this occurs. I did recently install a voltage gauge that's wired to the radio accessory wire. THe voltage gauge worked fine for a few weeks and then started having problems. Tapping on it makes it register. That might be the issue with the radio, but I don't think it has to do with the starting. I disconnected the gauge and it still exhibits the same starting problems. Once the car is running, everything is cool. I ran codes and came up with the 211 pip circuit failure memory code. koer didn't come up with anythign but a brake circuit and power steering code. I must not have done the goose test correctly. (it's been a while) Any ideas?

 

[Rockledge]

From the symptoms and the code 211, it sounds like your Crank Position Sensor could be on the blink. The CPS is directly responsible for generating the PIP and tach signal, so it makes sense.

If you go in to replace the CPS, you should also consider doing a full front 60K if it hasn't been done in a while.

 

[haydenm315]

From the symptoms and the code 211, it sounds like your Crank Position Sensor could be on the blink. The CPS is directly responsible for generating the PIP and tach signal, so it makes sense.

If you go in to replace the CPS, you should also consider doing a full front 60K if it hasn't been done in a while.

I'm reluctant to think it's the cps since I did the majority of my 60k around 30k ago. I recall coming up with that signal even before replacing the cps during 60k work. I'm more prone to think it's a bad connection somewhere. I don't go through coolant and doubt it's leaking onto the cps. I did gap the thing correctly and it's on there tight. I had to buy a new crank sprocket, so I know the vanes are fine on it. I have never replaced the cid sensor. I always thought cps sensor problems were related to tach's showing 0 or the car cutting out completely. Interesting enough, I did have my car stumble a few weeks ago in the rain. I stepped on the gas hard and it kinda bucked and gave me a quick flash of the check engine light. Maybe this is the code that's stored in memory? I believe these problems started sometime soon after that genius friend of mine swore that wd40 is safe to clean your engine bay and had my cousin do it while washing my car.

 

[Rockledge]

The car won't start without a good PIP signal, so maybe it is an intermittent thing. Like you say, the problem could lie in the circuitry. I agree that your CPS should not have failed so soon after your replacing it unless there were some kind of intervening cause.

A failed CID sensor I think would tend to show a slightly different kind of symptom, with the car cranking and not firing on several attempts and then suddenly firing right up and running fine.

 

[haydenm315]

The car won't start without a good PIP signal, so maybe it is an intermittent thing. Like you say, the problem could lie in the circuitry. I agree that your CPS should not have failed so soon after your replacing it unless there were some kind of intervening cause.

A failed CID sensor I think would tend to show a slightly different kind of symptom, with the car cranking and not firing on several attempts and then suddenly firing right up and running fine.

Strangely enough..... my car didn't exhibit these weird problems today. I cleaned a lot of the connections yesterday with electronic cleaner and dielectric grease. I did the dis, cps, coil pack, and maf. From time to time my car won't start right up on the first crank, but will start on the 2nd crank. This happened once today, but the tach never did the crazy 1500rpm thing when starting and it sounded like it was firing. I did notice a weird noise during the fuel pump priming when the car was hot. It sounded like some sort of pressure release. My fuel pump has made ungodly noises in the past. The only way I can define it is squealing. I should probably test fuel pressure and plan on doing a walbro fuel pump sometime. My cid is definately due for replacement. I'm gonna do it when I replace my intake with the butterflies and extrude honed runners I have in the garage Should be easier to get to.