TRANSMISSION ISSUE

[Daniele]

Good Morning,

I am really really irritated lately with my car and how it is driving. I had changed out my transmission fluid within the past 6 months and about 2 months ago I started noticing that sometimes my car wasn't shifting correctly or - for instance - getting on the highway on the on ramp and accelerating to say 65mph, my rpms would get stuck at like 5,000 and when I let off the gas it still remains at 5,000 rpms, and only stopping makes it come down but then it would drive okay after. Well someone mentioned something about resetting my transmission adaptive - whatever its called so I had that done twice now and both times produced a different result. First time, it seemed better at first but then I noticed that my rpms were staying higher than they should and not going down as they should. I guess i'm trying to explain it the best I can.

I'll just say that now what I am experiencing is that I have to push down on the gas pedal far too much for my car to start accelerating - and sometimes my rpms don't even change when that happens unless I press down far and it then goes way up and stays up there - it just isn't shifting up or down correctly. I called and asked the Ford dealership across the road and they said they don't hear any issues about taurus' with their transmission and he doesn't know what to tell me. It is driving me nuts because it is the slowest i've ever had it accelerating ever and it makes the car just feel slow because i don't want to keep giving too much gas and IDK i'm just very frustrated because I've had it a year almost and the car before it, well I had that for almost 7 years and it's transmission died so I get nervous.

Any suggestions will be extremely helpful. I would like to take it in with knowing a few options of what it could be. I plan to just change my tranny fluid again next Saturday just for safe measures.

THANKS

 

[Johnbigdog]

I think it may be time for a shop to take a look. And or go on a test drive with you when the fault occurs.

The forum can lead you in a multitude of directions, but sometimes it hard with just pieces of the puzzle.


It almost sounds like you might have an tune by LMS, but another reason the car will hold a gear is in sport mode. I just wonder if when the car holds a gear if you press the paddle shifters if that gear is held and a number is displayed. In drive, whenyou use the paddle shifters or the +/- button the car will up or down shift if safe, but then return to it's normal shifting. If it's in sport mode, it will hold that gear untill the car needs to shift to prevent damage from overseeing. It will show that gear in the ipc and that number wont go away untill you put it back in drive from sport.

It may be posible that you have a lack of power and the pcm is doing what it can to compensate too?

What dtcs do you have? What PIDs can you look at?

I wonder if you have a bad turbine or output speed shaft sensor and its defaulting to one gear. Some of our cars do have direct clutch problems that afect the turbine shaft speed sensor.

 

[luigisho]

I echo above.

Is the engine operating properly? Like boost at the right time and all that. I just watched a video where the explorer with the 2L turbo ran ok then like slow garbage because the spark plugs weren't firing correctly after it warmed up. There is alot of data feedback that the computer programming will process and it will not run correctly. Change of spark plugs with correct gap (some were out of spec out of the box) fixed that particular issue. A problem in one area can affect performance somewhere else. The code said wastegate pressure higher than expected. Not the wastegate at all.

Check for codes and if I was monkeying around with it and didn't get anywhere I would get a full computerized diagnostic. Data while it's off and while running not just a code reader. They can analyze stored and current data across many systems.

By the way, which unit did you change the fluid in? Is the ptu fluid old? How many miles on the car?

 

[Daniele]

I've changed my PTU fluid recently and my rear differential also. I made an appointment next week thursday because there seems to just be so many things it could be.

 

[Daniele]

I think it may be time for a shop to take a look. And or go on a test drive with you when the fault occurs.

The forum can lead you in a multitude of directions, but sometimes it hard with just pieces of the puzzle.


It almost sounds like you might have an tune by LMS, but another reason the car will hold a gear is in sport mode. I just wonder if when the car holds a gear if you press the paddle shifters if that gear is held and a number is displayed. In drive, whenyou use the paddle shifters or the +/- button the car will up or down shift if safe, but then return to it's normal shifting. If it's in sport mode, it will hold that gear untill the car needs to shift to prevent damage from overseeing. It will show that gear in the ipc and that number wont go away untill you put it back in drive from sport.

It may be posible that you have a lack of power and the pcm is doing what it can to compensate too?

What dtcs do you have? What PIDs can you look at?

I wonder if you have a bad turbine or output speed shaft sensor and its defaulting to one gear. Some of our cars do have direct clutch problems that afect the turbine shaft speed sensor.

I just made an appointment for next week to get it looked at. Theres just too much to this I think and this would be the best way to have someone look at it. I appreciate the help, though

 

[Johnbigdog]

I just made an appointment for next week to get it looked at. Theres just too much to this I think and this would be the best way to have someone look at it. I appreciate the help, though

If you can get the car to act up regularly I would try to go on a test drive with the service writer or manager if they allow it. Maybe take a video and describe what your doing with the throttle pedal, show where the shift lever is at and what the instrument pannel shows. Just to help the tech.

It may be a 2 person video if you can swing it.

 

[Daniele]

If you can get the car to act up regularly I would try to go on a test drive with the service writer or manager if they allow it. Maybe take a video and describe what your doing with the throttle pedal, show where the shift lever is at and what the instrument pannel shows. Just to help the tech.

It may be a 2 person video if you can swing it.

Oh believe me when I say that they will see and experience the issue when they take the car for a drive. It is constantly happening now and it just sucks because it drives sort of crappy since I can't accelerate well and idk i'm just happy to get in and get it checked out!

 

[luigisho]

I'm assuming that if it operates that poorly there are some codes you can pull and see what it says. Couldn't hurt

 

[Daniele]

I echo above.

Is the engine operating properly? Like boost at the right time and all that. I just watched a video where the explorer with the 2L turbo ran ok then like slow garbage because the spark plugs weren't firing correctly after it warmed up. There is alot of data feedback that the computer programming will process and it will not run correctly. Change of spark plugs with correct gap (some were out of spec out of the box) fixed that particular issue. A problem in one area can affect performance somewhere else. The code said wastegate pressure higher than expected. Not the wastegate at all.

Check for codes and if I was monkeying around with it and didn't get anywhere I would get a full computerized diagnostic. Data while it's off and while running not just a code reader. They can analyze stored and current data across many systems.

By the way, which unit did you change the fluid in? Is the ptu fluid old? How many miles on the car?

HEY,
So I dropped my car off this morning at a Ford dealership and their transmission tech test drove it, and he feels it's getting stuck in 3rd gear. So he changed my trans fluid again and reset my adaptive transmission or whatever it is called, drove it and nothing changed. He doesn't know what to do about it either it seems since they didn't call back before they closed. He asked if it was only acting up sometimes but no its completely constant, like my car accelerates for shit. Doesn't make any random noise or really anything else besides accelerating. It feels slow. I guess I am wondering if anyone else might have an idea so that perhaps I can let him know.

It accelerates slow and intermittently will take forever to change gears, a few times it even was sort of stuck at 5,000 rpm when i was accelerating to 60mph to get on the highway and wouldn't even go down when I let off the gas - I had to actually brake. It also seems like it isn't downshifting correctly either, when I come to my stop its sort of hard to stop, if that makes sense. There is no shuddering though.

 

[luigisho]

Is this under warranty? Hoping this isn't a transmission or solenoid issue...I would want a full diagnostic to make sure there is no engine system or sensor malfunction that throws the transmission programming off. Some modern cars are so sensitive to tight normal operating conditions that a problem in one area can affect another. I have seen some cars get stuck in 'limp mode' like closed loop and maybe that affect the shifting programming? I'm shooting in the dark on this so far from experiencing the car.

 

[Daniele]

Is this under warranty? Hoping this isn't a transmission or solenoid issue...I would want a full diagnostic to make sure there is no engine system or sensor malfunction that throws the transmission programming off. Some modern cars are so sensitive to tight normal operating conditions that a problem in one area can affect another. I have seen some cars get stuck in 'limp mode' like closed loop and maybe that affect the shifting programming? I'm shooting in the dark on this so far from experiencing the car.

well I am paying for a full diagnostic it's like $170 so I would assume the trans specialist would do it all. I think he ran all codes and what not already after test driving it. I suggested he look at the TSB's and he said that was what he would try next but he just needed to know more info. I just really am nervous. How much you think transmissions cost for these cars ? lol

It isn't under warranty unfortunately. I had a 12month/12,000mile extended warranty, and even though on the 18th of this month will mark a year that i've had it, I have driven wayyyyyy more than 12,000 miles lol. I got it with 45k and I'm at like 64k.

My car is a mystery. I honestly got shafted with the purchase. The dealership gave me a car fax fax that was not up to date. If I would have seen the up to date car fax before buying it, I would not have purchased it because they replaced the timing chain and such when the dealership got it. And the only owner before me was actually a company in Chicago. For being a 2013, it's extremely clean, especially the inside. It's like nobody ever sat in the back which would make sense but on the way negative side - obviously regular maintenance was not done on the car. It's so sad. Like I have to fix my lower turbo because it has a slow slow oil leak. That I noticed only a few months after I got it but they told me it didn't need to be fixed. All of my weather stripping is like dry rotted and garbage. And my sun roof leaks, not always but when it rains a lot a lot. I tried to get a quote for a new seal but apparently they don't sell the seals without the glass and thats $600. Oh and my trunk is rusting from the inside out and I need to replace that. And now my transmission. It's all so frustrating and sad. I've already replaced both tie rod ends, the battery, all four tires, serpentine belt, windshield wipers (they literally gave me one the wrong size, it was 2" too long), all fluids - transmission, coolant, PTU and rear diff .... It's been my dream car for like 9 years and this is just not fun. -____-

 

[Daniele]

I think it may be time for a shop to take a look. And or go on a test drive with you when the fault occurs.

The forum can lead you in a multitude of directions, but sometimes it hard with just pieces of the puzzle.


It almost sounds like you might have an tune by LMS, but another reason the car will hold a gear is in sport mode. I just wonder if when the car holds a gear if you press the paddle shifters if that gear is held and a number is displayed. In drive, whenyou use the paddle shifters or the +/- button the car will up or down shift if safe, but then return to it's normal shifting. If it's in sport mode, it will hold that gear untill the car needs to shift to prevent damage from overseeing. It will show that gear in the ipc and that number wont go away untill you put it back in drive from sport.

It may be posible that you have a lack of power and the pcm is doing what it can to compensate too?

What dtcs do you have? What PIDs can you look at?

I wonder if you have a bad turbine or output speed shaft sensor and its defaulting to one gear. Some of our cars do have direct clutch problems that afect the turbine shaft speed sensor.

I'm going to bring this up to the tech tomorrow morning. He wasn't able to figure out the problem today so hopefully he can or hopefully this might spark something for him.

Do these things gradually go bad or like overnight type of thing? Because this has been a slow increase like sort of like an exponential curve because I only felt issues randomly at first, not constant and now it's 100% all of the time it feels extra weird. It is sad because I feel so slow. It takes forever and too much force to accelerate fast.

 

[802SHO]

That's crazy! Hope they can figure out how to fix it, rather than an expensive replacement.

 

[luigisho]

It isn't under warranty unfortunately. I had a 12month/12,000mile extended warranty, and even though on the 18th of this month will mark a year that i've had it, I have driven wayyyyyy more than 12,000 miles lol. I got it with 45k and I'm at like 64k. -____-

That sucks. I try and recommend to anyone who can swing it to get a Ford extended warranty for at least the powertrain (engine, tranny, etc) for as long as you can stretch it out. There are Ford Motor Company warranty sellers online for cheaper than the dealer. Post back when you hear something from the dealer.

 

[Daniele]

Alright update - they say there's a hard shift between 2nd and 3rd - and all they can think to do before taking apart the transmission or replacing it, is to replace the main control? It will cost $761 and they can't say 100% that it will work. I have no idea what to do. Help

 

[Daniele]

Is this under warranty? Hoping this isn't a transmission or solenoid issue...I would want a full diagnostic to make sure there is no engine system or sensor malfunction that throws the transmission programming off. Some modern cars are so sensitive to tight normal operating conditions that a problem in one area can affect another. I have seen some cars get stuck in 'limp mode' like closed loop and maybe that affect the shifting programming? I'm shooting in the dark on this so far from experiencing the car.

They can't figure it out exactly but they want to replace the main control and they did mention solenoid and its like almost $800 bucks and they cannot guarantee it'll fix the problem. I am stuck so I guess I do this right to eliminate this potential fix? Instead of jumping the gun and replacing or tearing apart the transmission. Ugh

 

[Daniele]

The wild thing is there is absolutely no codes that are coming up.

 

[jman1200]

Don't we all love when the "experts" start changing parts "to see" if that fixes the problem?.... wonder how they would do it if it was on their dime.
They should be able to test any solenoid to determine if it is bad, it is just easier/faster and convenient ($$$) for them to replace it.

 

[Daniele]

Don't we all love when the "experts" start changing parts "to see" if that fixes the problem?.... wonder how they would do it if it was on their dime.
They should be able to test any solenoid to determine if it is bad, it is just easier/faster and convenient ($$$) for them to replace it.

I would agree but during these times I feel like I don't feel as bad about it because they are very low on labor since no cars are coming in because of COVID. It sucks but I think I have to just bite my lip and go with it. Good thing that stimulus money deposited today.

 

[luigisho]

That's terrible across the board. It's one thing to throw a sensor or two at an issue but big time parts like that without testing.. oh boy. I was hoping John had some more insights on what to look at.
Keep posting back. Alot of issues have to be catalogued as we are seeing newer and different kinds of failures. This can help the next person 3 years from now.