Transmission dying on me???

[Mike Kopstain]

I don't know what else to do. The self pro-claimed transmission master is at a loss. Here's what it's doing:

It always shifts fine and never slips, but the 1-2 shift seems to take too long after the car is warmed up. The RPM's don't raise between thhe shift, but it just takes too damn long, maybe 1 second; it's hard to tell.

Additionally, the car whines upon slowing down. It's not loud, just there. A local member said that it could be the bearing in the differential and another said that it could be the planetaries. Has anyone else experienced this and if so do you remember what it was?

Thanks guys.

<small>[ September 16, 2002, 11:34 PM: Message edited by: Mikeys_Taurus ]</small>

 

[Mr Anonymous]

The symptoms you describe are typical of planet wear beyond tolerances, particularly the whine on coastdown. It could also be your torque converter failing, but oddly the TC is one of the more stout components in the AXOD-E/AX4S's.

Have you ever rebuilt a tranny yourself? It's not insurmountable, and is quite a learning experience. The biggest expense is usually the tools. An overhaul kit, all new solenoids and a shift kit will come in under $200, and a new planetary gearset set with sunshell will set you back another $200. If you needed additional hard parts you'd be looking at under ~$40 for most.

As I said, the tools are the killer. I priced out the 'mandatory' tools at around $350, and the rest can be improvised. I was fortunate enough to be able to borrow the tools I needed from a friend-of-a-friend. But, even if you have to buy the tools, if you consider your blood-and-sweat labor 'free', you could easily save $1000 on what it would cost to have the tranny rebuilt for you.

 

[Mike Kopstain]

Never rebuilt one myself, although I may have to learn because I'm out of money. Oddly enough, the first transmission rebuild was because of a torque converter that decided to shred itself.

Here is my concern, am I doing any more damage by driving it? I mean is there metal floating threw there right now?

Thanks a lot for you help man, even if you are sealing my fate. frown

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Well the 'good' news is that if your planetaries or torque converter are failing, you're probably not going to do a whole lot more damage by continuing to drive it. The worst case scenario would be having to replace the forward clutch piston that might crack after you start slipping gears. At about $40, and being that it's one of the unique SHO parts, I think it's a good idea to replace it during a rebuild anyway.

Presuming the wear has been gradual, any metal floating around is probably microscopic. Once you start slipping gears you'll start seeing some clutch material break free.

So, I'd say you're probably safe to keep driving it for a while (I just wouldn't take any multi-state trips at this point). You could very well get another 1000 miles or so before it starts slipping. Once it does start slipping, you'll probably only get ~100 miles before it loses forward.

 

[Mike Kopstain]

To quote Jay from Jay and Silent Bob: "Mother F*ck F*ck, F*ck F*ck F*ck Mother Mother F*ck"...

I think I'll go cry now. Thanks for your help.

 

[Mike Kopstain]

Interesting info from Alldata:

"BUZZ"/VIBRATION IN "PARK" ON AN INCLINE - AX4S AND AX4N

The cause of the concern has been determined to be the park pawl providing a ground path for normal drivetrain vibrations. The concern can be minimized by making sure the parking brake is applied. Do not attempt to service this condition at this time.

"BUZZ" NOISE IN TRANSAXLE ON ENGINE SHUTDOWN - Ax4S AND AX4N

This is due to voltage power being shut off to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) relay on engine shutdown. With engine rotation still present (which is still driving the transaxle pump) and the Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) solenoid now off, EPC and line pressure are high (high EPC pressure). This condition is normal hydraulic noise within the pump and valve body. To confirm this symptom, apply the brake, place the transaxle into gear and turn the engine off. If the noise is no longer present, then the noise can be considered normal hydraulic noise. Do not attempt to service this condition at this time.

HIGH PITCHED "WHISTLE" FROM MAIN CONTROL AT NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE AND TIPPING INTO THROTTLE - AX4S

This condition is normal hydraulic noise and will not cause a malfunction or affect durability of the transaxle. Do not attempt to service this condition at this time. This "whistle" noise could also be caused by the three-port vacuum check valve in the vacuum supply line to the speed control servo.

There has always been a slight moan while giving light gas, always a whine afterr shutting it off, but no TSB about a downshift whine... BAstards!

Anyone needing access to an Alldata account let me know.

 

[Mike Kopstain]

Ok well I just noticed that the whine does not start until I hit 3rd gear and it is not only on coastdown, it's all the time after it shifts into 3rd, in overdrive, and on coastdown. It matches RPM. If I put the car into neutral the noise is not there. Is this definetly my planetaries? I wouldn't think a torque converter would only whine in certain gears, although there has been this jerking idle anomoly.