Tranny Cooler
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sholando
New Member
Call your local U-HAUL. I was quoted $40.00 plus the price of the part. They have a few different models available. Range in price from $45.00 to $95.00 for the HUGE ones (for motorhomes).
SHO#7
SHO Member
They are not hard at all to install. I ran mine in a series with the external cooling tube that came on the car. The big thing is to make sure that you get a quality cooler. My personal preferance is one that is set up to run 2 different fluid paths. I believe the term is viscous (sp) control. What it means is; if the fluid is cool and thick, it will take the short path on the outside edge of the cooler, once the fluid warms and becomes thinner. It will flow through the inside fins ( 36 on mine ). It does this to prevent over-cooling. Once installed, you will be suprised how warm that fluid actually gets. And being in the transmission business, I can say... Heat is the enemy of transmissions. A cooler is a very wise investment. Good luck 
SHODWN
Mother Threasa
mutiple coolers are suggested for track use, location means alot to prolong cooling. Pauls cooler is placed in a very good location and gets plenty of air.
Durring LONG hot laps at Blackhawk chaseing a Cobra and being chased by a Mocha S/C car I reached temps of over 250. Granted I was beating the car to death but it was great fun. and worth droping the trans again for yet another converter going south.
The Synergyn fluid sill looks cherry red and no smell. A WISE investment is alos to get some quilty fluid like Synergyn or Amsoil
Durring LONG hot laps at Blackhawk chaseing a Cobra and being chased by a Mocha S/C car I reached temps of over 250. Granted I was beating the car to death but it was great fun. and worth droping the trans again for yet another converter going south.
The Synergyn fluid sill looks cherry red and no smell. A WISE investment is alos to get some quilty fluid like Synergyn or Amsoil
Originally I hung my cooler in front of the A/C condenser. But this just adds heat to the engine compartment. I now have it laid horizontal over the gill slits on the valance panel between the radiator and front bumper.
Works great and always has air moving through it when the car is moving, when the fan is on and the car is stopped air will be draw up through it.
<small>[ July 24, 2003, 11:01 AM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>
Works great and always has air moving through it when the car is moving, when the fan is on and the car is stopped air will be draw up through it.
<small>[ July 24, 2003, 11:01 AM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>
SHO#7
SHO Member
Mine is made by Tru-Cool, and it is a LPD ( low pressure drop ). I put those on a lot of cars that I rebuild. Have not had any problems with them.
venom
Rowboat Design
I like the B&M's I have on both my Gen 3's. They are viscous controlled as Mike mentions as well. You can order B&M through Jeg's; I just went to the Jeg's store by me and picked one up, but Jeg's doesn't have many store fronts, and almost all of them are in my direct region. there is always www.jegs.com , or Summit Racing has tranny coolers as well.
Scott
SHO5
ADDICTED
I just ordered one off www.bulkpart.com it was the same one for sale at MidwestSHO for $15 less. The part number is 1677 and it was 44.72 w/ shipping
GordoSHO
New Member
I have heard that Hayden makes a good cooler. shrug
JSIL1
Mainlining
I went to jegs and they have listed 5 coolers by B&M which one would be the most benifficial to a non track (YET) 99 which is driven hard.
venom
Rowboat Design
I put the 19,000 GVW rated cooler on mine, the big reason is that is the largest they have that is 3/4" thick, and it is black so it hides well. I have mine right behind the ford oval, above the existing tranny cooler. When pumping oil into a cooler you want the hot oil to go in the bottom so it has to be pumped upwards, rather than run down (assisted by gravity) the cooler, this forces the hot oil to spend more time in the cooler as it is working against gravity. So from the drivers side of the factory Aux ATX cooler take a line from that end of the tube to the bottom inlet of your additional cooler. Go out of the top of your new cooler and connect up to the line you removed from the factory cooler to send the oil back to the ATX.
Good luck
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