Tranny connections at radiator - ATX

[pitaSHO]

I got a radiator from somebody in PA (I deleted the emails, so I don't know his handle) that was missing the two ******* that screw into the side tank of the radiator. I took the two off my old rad and went to put them on the "new" one, but they were too big. I heard that there were two different sizes. Is this true? If so I need a pair of the small adapters. Any ideas or help?

Thanks.

Chris K.

 

[SHOZ123]

Should just be pipe thread. I would just eliminate the radiator anyway.

 

[pitaSHO]

The fittings have a special ****** on the inside that receive the flared end from the transmission lines.

 

[n8rsk8r]

you should be able to get those at a parts store. it is like a graduation right? From the size the radiator has to the hardline.. correct? If so I know they sell those at autoparts stores.

 

[gmorrell]

I may have a set of the small replacement ******* in the garage from a radiator replacement I did many moons ago. Let me look tonight, if I find them, and they'll work for you, they're yours.

 

[pitaSHO]

Thanks, Gary. I checked NAPA and they don't have them. The dealer only shows one size for the SHO and the ones for the SLO are $15 EACH and I don't know if they are the right fitting. Any help is appreciated...

Chris K.

 

[gmorrell]

OK, here's what I have, I don't know if these are small or large. They were left over from a radiator swap I did some years ago where a universal radiator went in an MTX car and I didn't need these adapters.
Click the thumb for a larger pic.


The male threaded end which threads into the radiator trans cooler sockets is 3/8"-18 pipe thread, the thread major diameter is about 0.67". If you can thread a 3/8" NPT pipe plug into the radiator's transmission oil cooler sockets, then these adapters should work.

The end not visible in the picture is a female inverted flare for the trans cooler lines.

If you think these will work, PM me with your address and I'll mail them out.

 

[pitaSHO]

Dang it. Those are the big ones... Thanks for looking, Gary. I'm beginning to wonder if I have the wrong radiator. Is there any other difference between the SHO and SLO radiators?

Chris K.

 

[SHOZ123]

If you have the large Gen 2 ATX cooler I don't know why you are worried about the radiator cooler in the first place. IMHO if your aux cooler(s) are up to the job the radiator cooler will only add heat to the engine cooling system in the summer when you need it the least. It does not appreciably heat the fluid as some will tell you for winter time issues.

 

[pitaSHO]

Oh. I've never really messed with ATX's before. I don't care, I guess, if it's hooked to the radiator (never thought it was unnecessary or there was any other way). I guess I just want the loop closed so I can sell the car. How do I bypass the radiator? Thanks for your input.

Chris K.

 

[SHOZ123]

Just get some 3/8" atx hose and loop the two ends together.

 

[gurucomputers]

When I replaced my radiator I had the same issue. Got the new NTP fittings the new radiator from NAPA with 3/8" ******* and replaced all the hard lines with 3/8' trans hose.

This will remove the stupid bypass valve. This has something to do with warming the oil faster but I have had no issues at all.

 

[pitaSHO]

What if I just put a cap on the two ends where they connect to the rad?

 

[gmorrell]

What if I just put a cap on the two ends where they connect to the rad?

Not a good idea, the transmission wants to circulate fluid through that loop.

Here are some inverted flare to male pipe adapters:

http://www.brasscatalog.com/catalog...catalog/onlinecatalogpage&wd=no&cd=no&page=62

I'm certain there are many other sources besides this. Do you have a local business that makes hydraulic hoses, or a Parker Store? They will likely have a supply of male pipe to inverted flare adapters.

I don't know what size you need, but if the 3/8" pipe adapters I have are too big, then it must be 1/4" male pipe, or maybe even as small as 1/8" male pipe. You'll need to make some measurements of the male flare fittings on the hard lines from the transmission. Just measure the thread outer diameter and the thread pitch, a good hose/fitting supplier will be able to tell you what size the inverted flare is from that.

 

[pitaSHO]

I went out this morning and looked at the two lines and noticed that my idea of capping the two ends wouldn't work. I didn't know how the fluid circulated through the rad, but now I see. Thanks for the input. Didn't know it was going to be such a PITA to find two fittings.... Oh, well.

Gary, do you think I have a SHO radiator? I'm beginning to think it's not the correct one...

Chris K.

 

[gmorrell]

I went out this morning and looked at the two lines and noticed that my idea of capping the two ends wouldn't work. I didn't know how the fluid circulated through the rad, but now I see. Thanks for the input. Didn't know it was going to be such a PITA to find two fittings.... Oh, well.

Gary, do you think I have a SHO radiator? I'm beginning to think it's not the correct one...

Chris K.

If it fits in the space, and all the innies and outies are generally in the right places, it's probably a Taurus radiator. I don't believe there's been a SHO specific radiator in the aftermarket for some time now; it's all just generic Taurus.

What you seem to be facing is variability in what the radiator manufacturer has available for a trans cooler tube. Apparently, there are trans cooler inserts that have different thread sizes for the ports. I would figure out what size pipe thread is used for the trans cooler ports, then figure out what the trans cooler lines use for an inverted flare fitting size, then search out the right adapter fitting.

Alternatively, cut the flare fittings from the steel tubes, measure the steel tubing O.D., get some hose of the right I.D. rated for trans fluid, then get some male pipe thread to hose barb adapters to screw into the radiator ports. Use short pieces of rubber tubing and clamps to connect the steel tubes to the barb fittings. There is very little pressure in the trans cooler loop, so rubber tubing and clamps will work just fine.

Unfortunately, you're experiencing the special place in **** that is reserved for those of use trying to keep limited production, 10, 15, and 20+ year old cars on the road. Spare parts for my 1985 SVO Mustang started disappearing in 1990, back stock is already thin on parts for my 1999 SVT Contour daily driver, and I don't think I need to go into the parts availability issues with a 20 year old SHO...

Good luck.