Timing

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riden2low

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I did a search and can't seem to come up with anything so far. I am doing a 60K on a 93 ATX and getting ready for seals and so forth. So I used the Damper to bring the cam marks to where they are suppose to be and the damper was pointed at 0. Now I am looking for a punch mark to line it at 5:00 oclock and have none. Is this common? So I am thinking if the white mark on the damper was at 0 and the cam marks where they are suppose to be I am fine. I hope. This is my first time at this and I been following Phoenix's and SHOtimes "how too's" advice. Don't want to have to go thru this tear down again for awhile.
 

riden2low

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Haven't gotten the belt yet. Will be picking the seals and belt and etc tomorrow. Just got it tore down and looking to see what I was suppose to have. I was looking on line and all of the crank sprockets have a punch mark. But low and behold, I have to get one with none. Got to pull the sprocket anyways as the crank seal is leaking.
 

jimtash

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The mark is on there. Clean the face of the crank sprocket and shine a light on it if you have to. I had the same difficulty but managed to find it and so should you.
 
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Eric VerValin

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^^ its on the crank sprocket.. it should line up with a line on the oil pump at about the 5 o'clock position.
 
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SHO_ROLLER_2

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I had the SAME thing happen!










I torched the SHO and bought a Kia........




J/K. Clean the crap out of everything and you'll see the marks.
 

riden2low

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so here is what I have. got the damper mark on 0, cams are at their marks. Looked at other photo's and they show the fifth tooth at the five o'clock from the hole to pull the gear off with. The crank key is about 11:00. But like I said no punch mark.
 

silver93sho

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If i understand properly what you are saying, the punch mark you are looking for is on the geared sprocket behind the damper, its what the timing belt rides on. you need to pull off the damper and you will then see the punch mark on the gears and on the side of the oil pan. do your TDC off of that.
 

SHO_ROLLER_2

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If i understand properly what you are saying, the punch mark you are looking for is on the geared sprocket behind the damper, its what the timing belt rides on. you need to pull off the damper and you will then see the punch mark on the gears and on the side of the oil pan. do your TDC off of that.

Agreed!
 

riden2low

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The damper is off. When you look straight at the sprocket. no markings. You put the damper on enough to turn the engine and I can see the marking for the 0 degrees on the damper and the cam sprockets are on their marks. Will pull the no. 1 plug to check for tdc. Got thru the tear down and the front cam seal is the only one not leaking. The water pump looks good but I am replacing everything. Cheap insurance.
 

riden2low

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And the funny about this is I have never worked on a SHO. Lots of V8's. Just a new learning curve for me and THANKS! FOR THIS SITE. I would never known what to do. When I first opened that hood, all I could think was Holly Crap. Now it is becoming a piece of cake. Just have to read, read and read.
 

itwonder

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Check my recent posts and you'll find a thread where I posted pics of the sprockets and marks. It's there, just need to know where to look.
 

klobbs

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^^^it took me a good 5 minutes to find it my first time. It's a tiny, tiny, mark, it's actually on one of the teeth. If you have to, take the sprocket off and clean it really well, shine a light on it from different directions.
 

riden2low

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Well, as usual, you guys are right on the crank shaft sprocket. I got it off and did a little scrubbing with a wire brush and there was the timing mark. Now, can someone give me an idea how to take off the CPS. Yes there are Philips screw heads and can't even pop them loose and the more I try the heads are getting screwed up. Vise grips no help. Beens I am going to replace it, thinking of just breaking it off so I can get a better grip on the screw heads. Will replace them with small bolts.
 
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Eric VerValin

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Very carefully with drill bits... or a grind off two sides of the head of the screw and grab it with a small / long nosed set of vise grips. You can get a cheap pair at AZ for a few bucks.
 

klobbs

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If you go the drill bit route, be very VERY careful not to just drill the head out. If you do that you'll be tapping and heli-coiling out the threads, something you definitely don't want to be doing under there. If you've stripped the threads, I would first break off the old cps, it shouldn't be too hard, although there's a metal sleeve that the screw goes through on the cps. If that doesn't work, then dremel off two edges of the screw...I've done this before and it works great....basically turns a screw into a bolt.
 

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