Timing belt tensioner stud broke, any ideas to get it out?

[jimtash]

Like it says, stud broke and the car left me stranded. Looked at it, found the inspection cover on the lower timing cover off and the tensioner off to the side. Going to tow it home but I already know what I'm looking at. What's the best way to get the remainder of the stud out? Obviously a drill out but a drill doesn't fit in there.

 

[trainguy1989]

Like it says, stud broke and the car left me stranded. Looked at it, found the inspection cover on the lower timing cover off and the tensioner off to the side. Going to tow it home but I already know what I'm looking at. What's the best way to get the remainder of the stud out? Obviously a drill out but a drill doesn't fit in there.

You sir have stud cancer....

 

[Off Road SHO]

If the old stud is not broken off below the surface, a good welder can probably weld a nut on to it.

 

[jayro]

It really depends on how much is still sticking out. You can always use something like a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut a slit in the top. Then use a flathead screwdriver to back it out. Alot of people have had success with using a welder to tack a nut on the top of it (weld on the inside of the nut) and then use a socket to back it out. If there is enough left sticking out I have had luck grabbing it with vise grips and turning it. If its possible you may want to try heating the area some so that it backs out easier too. Good Luck

 

[zach44102]

This just recently happen to me, Trust me when i say this. Screw easy outs, screw dremels, screw flat head screw drivers. The best way to do it is is go buy a 1/2 nut. Stick it on the stud, and fill the nut full of weld. let it cool for a couple mins and back it out. If you dont have a welder then pay someone to do it. A shop only charged me 20$. as long as you bring them the car already disassembled.

 

[jimtash]

Well I broke off a drill out in it. What are my options. I can't get it out. Seriously considering crushing this car. Busted my ass on it for the past few month only to be let down by a piece of crap stud.

Can I use the 3.2L timing set up? It is a 3.2L conversion and the set-up is there for it. And I just got rid of the 3.2L timing belt tensioner. Lovely.

 

[HUTCH]

You can use the 3.2 timing setup, but you will need all of the 3.2 accessories and brackets, 3.2 timing components, rear atx motor mount flipped around and then you will need to modify the front mtx motor mount to attach to the atx bracket and fabricate a mounting bracket for the intermediate shaft carrier bearing.

 

[jimtash]

To use the 3.2L timing belt? Why? Seems that all should be needed is the tensioner and hydraulics for that set up. The oil pump is the 3.2L pump so it fits in there.

You mean to use the accessory belt.

 

[HUTCH]

everything on the engine fits differently... timing covers are different and the accessory brackets are different. iirc this is due to the different location of the timing belt tensioner and pulley's. I believe the bracket that the timing belt idler pulley mounts to is slightly different as well.
Everything in there is in such close proximity to everything else that it makes it impossible to mix and match mtx and atx timing belt setups. That's why everyone usually swaps over the two belt accessory belt and mtx timing belt setup.
It's actually fairly easy to do if you have access to a welder

 

[jimtash]

That's the problem, I don't. Going to try and drill it out with a carbide bit tomorrow. Maybe I can bust it up since it's brittle with a punch as well.

 

[HUTCH]

If it doesnt work, do a search for custom front motor mount, Theres a few people that have done it differently. One of them used the rear mount from a 2000 Taurus and bolted it up with angle iron

 

[jayro]

That's the problem, I don't. Going to try and drill it out with a carbide bit tomorrow. Maybe I can bust it up since it's brittle with a punch as well.

Do you know someone with one, or atleast someone who could help you tow it to a repair shop? Then you could do the weld a nut on the top thing and back it out with a socket.

 

[zach44102]

Refer to my first posts. STOP MESSING WITH EASY OUTS AND DRILLING THROUGH HARDENED STEEL!!! Take it to a shop, Weld a nut to the stud, back it out. Otherwise your going to **** it up worse and then you will have to drill the whole thing out and put in a threaded insert.

 

[jimtash]

Refer to my first posts. STOP MESSING WITH EASY OUTS AND DRILLING THROUGH HARDENED STEEL!!! Take it to a shop, Weld a nut to the stud, back it out. Otherwise your going to **** it up worse and then you will have to drill the whole thing out and put in a threaded insert.

That's what it needs. Anyway I'm not messing with it. The effin engine only has 120 miles on a stinking rebuild. Might try and find someone to work on it or I might burn it. Tired of it dealing with it. Not very enjoyable.

 

[msteiny]

Another satisfied SHO Owner.

 

[jimtash]

Good gawd what a pain in the ass this thing was to fix but it's running again. Had to drill the stud out and put an insert in and that was no easy feat considering the limited amount of space and having to work in the street. Lowered the subframe just to get access to the tensioner stud and had a machinist friend make me a jig to use to drill it with.

Think I found the culprit of why it happened. When I went to start it, it was to making some awful noise and it wouldn't turn over. Take out the starter and I find a big chunk of nose cone broken off inside the bell housing. Apparently it broke while driving, caught itself on the flywheel and caused the belt to seize and in turn broke the tensioner stud from the stress.

Thankfully my machinist friend made a jig and using a spade drill bit, I was able to drill the stud out. What a lifesavor.