Timing Belt Tensioner bolt sheared off
- Thread starter ahelm
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tery
Silvia survived the purge- summer car
My thought would be like any other sheared off bolt, ya gotta do the drill it out and use extractor for the threads, but I'm not a super duper mechanic, just a self taught years ago...ask Fred...Rubydist...he knows everything I think...
Dirk37
Mr. Resourceful
First PB blast it and let it start soaking, then when you try to get it out it'll be somewhat easier. I'd recommend starting with a left handed drill bit, if you get lucky it will come right out. If that doesn't work then go to a screw extractor.
Where you tightening or loosening it when it sheared off?
Where you tightening or loosening it when it sheared off?
SHO1
Coke Is It!
I have a good one if you need another?
The only way ive personally seen this done is to weld a nut on to the end of the bolt then turn it out with the nut. If it broke while turning it then an extractor isn't going to do it. If it just broke while driving then you might get lucky. Good luck!
Need to have a sticky about this problem. There's no reason for the studs to break. They don't carry a load or stress. Their only purpose is to keep the tension on the belt AFTER it's been properly set by holding down the tensioner assembly.
If after a properly performed timing belt install a whining noise becomes apparent that wasn't there before, get rid of the belt. Otherwise the stud will more than likely sheer off.
If after a properly performed timing belt install a whining noise becomes apparent that wasn't there before, get rid of the belt. Otherwise the stud will more than likely sheer off.
The bolt did shear off while driving, which was no fun watching the tension bearing roll down the road. But I did get the bolt out. First I drilled a hole in it, heated it up good and sprayed it with pb blaster. Heating then spraying has worked for me many times and I highly recommend that process for those hard to get out bolts. I tapped an easy out in the hole and out it came. Thanks for the tips.
Put a WTB ad out.
I don't use Dayco belts because they've always produced a whine that IMO is the reason a lot of people have experienced broken tensioner studs, including myself. If you hear it whine after the belt is on, my advice to you is to find a different belt. Preferably one made in the USA or Japan and not Italy. Or don't be surprised if the stud shears off again in the future.
I don't use Dayco belts because they've always produced a whine that IMO is the reason a lot of people have experienced broken tensioner studs, including myself. If you hear it whine after the belt is on, my advice to you is to find a different belt. Preferably one made in the USA or Japan and not Italy. Or don't be surprised if the stud shears off again in the future.
The OEM Ford belts would whine (Maybe made by Dayco near the end of production?). My 95 MTX, fresh off the showroom floor, whined for the first 3 K miles. Not saying you are incorrect - vibrational fatigue on fasteners is a real phenomena.
We've been over this before. All I can say is the Dayco's whined on me and I ended up on the side of the road. I use Cloyes now and not a peep. Something that makes up the Dayco (or Italian made) belts is not good for the MTX's. They might work with the ATX set up but I can't comment on that. Maybe we should do a poll here with people who've experienced broken studs and ask them which brand belt was on it. IMO Dayco will be at the top.
When I was at my wits end trying to get rid of the whine, loosening the tensioner manually only to hear it disappear but the belt flop between the cams, replacing the sprockets, using a different tensioner and spring, nothing solved it until the belt was changed to a different brand. And by brand I mean one that isn't made in Italy.
The whine that you experienced went away at 3000 miles and that's cool. Mine went away because the tensioner assembly ended up in the woods somewhere because it broke off.
When I was at my wits end trying to get rid of the whine, loosening the tensioner manually only to hear it disappear but the belt flop between the cams, replacing the sprockets, using a different tensioner and spring, nothing solved it until the belt was changed to a different brand. And by brand I mean one that isn't made in Italy.
The whine that you experienced went away at 3000 miles and that's cool. Mine went away because the tensioner assembly ended up in the woods somewhere because it broke off.
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If you still have the bolt, I will buy it from you. Or if you can just send me the specs on the bolt, I will try and find a replacement. Mine broke last week but with all the snow, it will be a while before I try and work on it. Figured I'd spend the time sourcing parts.
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