Timing Belt Question w/ Picture

[wjayg]

Ok the 1990 SHO has about 99k miles and I spoke to the original owner who owned her from 10/1990 to 02/2008
2nd owner 02/08 to 06/08
3rd owner 06/08 to 09/09 then me
The original owner said the fuel pump/timing belt/water pump had never been changed and I know the 3rd did not even do a oil change in the 15 months he owned it so......yet the CPS looks original?



I have a goodyear gatorback (and I do see where the leak was coming from-PS pump).
My Sho would die occassionally or would not start after sitting-just cranked and cranked but would not turn over. Then after a while 5-15 minutes it would start up like nothing was ever wrong. Kenny suggested that the fuel pump check valve was leaking fuel back to the tank so I replaced that and made it about 8 miles when it died again but would not start until the next day. After reading post here that the CPS sensor gives no codes and assuming the timing belt/water pump CPS had never been done.....I decided to change it all! Any thoughts?, I got a gates T248 belt and since I am there I figure I should do everything including cam seals & crank seal, **** I might even put on the rebuilt alternator since it is right there. This is something I want to do once and never again-any suggestions? And does the water pump look newer? Thanks

 

[TwistedMunky]

Just did my 90 with 109k and the water pump looked great. But my timing belt looked way different. It looked newer but had no writing.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Jay, you might as well replace all of the cheap items while you are in there. Like cam seals and timing belt. But I wouldnt get carried away with items such as the water pump, unless it is obviously leaking.

The water pump does looker like a newer unit though.


Sorry the fuel pump didnt do the trick for you. Did you ever check fuel pressure at the rails?

 

[rubydist]

that timing belt and water pump do not have 99k miles on them. the original belts were not GoodYear, and after 99k miles you will not be able to read the writing on the back of them. so, someone along the way has changed them.

your symptoms sound like typical crank position sensor failure. while changing that, I would also change the front main seal and all 3 cam seals at a minimum.

 

[wjayg]

Timing Belt

I want to say thanks for all your help because this is at the top of my mechanical abilities. Here is another picture of the CPS and what looks like water leakage from long ago. I have changed the CPS which looks original and I think I am going to leave the front crank seal and (3) cam seals alone as they do not appear to be leaking. I will change the bottom radiator hose and leave the timing belt, tensioner, and the idler pulleys alone. I have driven 3500 miles in 9 months and probably wont do over 5 k a year. I would appreciate opinions asap.
I also noticed there a slots in the CPS where the (2) phillips head screws mount any idea and upper or lower in the slots?




Thank You Jay

 

[rubydist]

yes - this is very important! you need to adjust the cps so that it is approx .030" gap from the sensor wheel to the cps. it will tend to move upward (too large of gap) as you tighten the screws, because the magnet is in the lower part of the cps and will try to attach itself to the sensor wheel. if that happens, all your work and your new cps will be scrap.

 

[jmpSHO]

You should buy a feeler gauge to properly gap the CPS. They are cheap and can be bought at any auto parts store.

 

[Eric VerValin]

stick 2 buisness cards in there and call it a day .3 isn't that much.. if you have thin buisness cards use 3, if they are nice "heavy" ones use 2.

 

[wjayg]

Gap

I can get a feeler gauge in there anyway. It is from the bottom lip of the wheel to the top magnetic sensor on the CPS yes?
I rotate the crank around till the "opening" in the top lip on the wheel is covering up only half of the top of the magnetic sensor on the CPS and I cant get a feeler gauge in there, am I missing something? Thanks

 

[Eric VerValin]

Leave it just like you have it there in the pic... loosen it up, pick it up... insert gauge, drop sensor so it sits on the feeler, then tighten back up.

 

[wjayg]

Gap

Thanks Eric,

 

[itwonder]

Have you seen the pictorial walkthrough for the 60K maintenance procedure that is posted at www.showphoenixproject.com? Very helpful

 

[wjayg]

Back Together

Thanks All, runs great, got it back together tonight, 6 straight hours.

Yes I know about the front 60 k service at:

http://www.showphoenixproject.com

But there is no mention of doing the gap on the CPS or that you even have too.
Also says at the end to tighten the (4) power steering bolts? But I know he meant water pump pulley bolts. Would like to thank the person(s) or persons who did that write up as I could not of done it w/o
Also I spoke to several mechanics who told me to leave the other stuff alone
i.e. timing belt, front crank seals, cam seal, ect.
To quote them "if it aint broke......"

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Thats one way to look at it Jay.

But the "proper" way to look at it is "while you are in there..."

The parts you are considering not replacing are cheap items. The labor involved just getting to them makes them must-replace items in my opinion.

 

[wjayg]

Frt 60K

99,369 miles total, I will put about 5K miles per year for next 10 years at that time it will need another upper & front 60K and I will pay someone to do that and also have them do a clutch also. Seals look fine, no leakage

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Its your car.

But mileage has little to do with seal breakdown. Oxidation, and heat cycles breaks ALL types of rubber down. Commonly referred to as "dry rot"

As I said, it is your car. But personally, Id hate to button the car back up, only tear it apart in a few months due to a failed $5 seal.

Maybe thats just me. Whenever I tear into a rig as deep or deeper than something like a front 60k, I replace it ALL, just so I know that it will be good for at least another 60-100k.

People that follow the "replace it when it breaks" on these cars (or any car this age, are quite often the people that ***** and moan about a "POS" car "nickle and diming" them to death. When that simply isnt the case. A small bit of preventative maintenance alleviates it all.