Tickin from pullys!!

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sleepa

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I started my car up 10 min. before i got done w/ work and tehre was a loud tickin noise commin from the pullys on the left side of the engine when i got back out there 10 min. later....so i drove home and then i had my uncle look at it that night and when i reved it up...the ticking got louder and faster...he said somethin about a "vibration dampner"???on the bottom pulley..the belt is offset and is not completly on the pully!!??could this be the probleM???i've NEVER had this problem or noise before!!!!!plz help!!
 

jthomas68

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Has the power seemed to change lately?If it is coming from the dampner(crank pulley),the clicking can mean the pulley has come loose,and the keyway is worn.I`d check the tightness of the pulley(19mm)to see if it is backing off the crank.Other than that,it could also be a tensioner bearing if it`s from the belt area.
 

sleepa

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Well, its probabaly not safe to drive my car right?? what will a dampner pully run for $$??? and where should i go about buying that??? is it a job i can fix myself?? plz help!thanks guys
 

projectSHO89

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It is unlikely that the dampener/pully itself is bad unless you can see an actual defect.

If might just be that your accessory belt is worn out and is starting to fray, causing it to try to walk out of the pully's channel. If it's the belt, it could fail and leave you with power to some important accessories, like power steering or your alternator .

You also need to check what Jeremy said.

Check that first.

Personally, I would replace the belt if nothing looked out of order. I'm assuming that you or your uncle could actually see the belt out of postition.

Steve

<small>[ December 25, 2002, 12:37 PM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>
 

sleepa

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Yea, we could see that the rubber bushing around the pully was outa place and the pully got pushed in towards the engine..and the belt is stickin off the side of thepully!! im goin to check tom. to see if i can get a new pully! thanks
 

jthomas68

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That`s pretty odd,i`ve never heard of a crank pulley going bad on an SHO.I wouldn`t be suprized if the pulley is unavailable,but there should be a few used ones floating around if that`s the case.I wouldn`t definately double check the keyway though,just to be sure.
 

SHOZ123

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Might be an UDP. The Gen 3 crank UDP is two piece with a rubber compound joining them. A few have failed.
 

jthomas68

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Good call,i know the GEN II ATX UDP does have a rubber part to it on the crank pulley.
 

sleepa

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well, i called napa this morning..and they dont stock that pully...he said we had to call Ford!...so we did...and it'll cost us $215 from ford! What could go wrong in the keyway??
 

Mr Anonymous

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sleepa:
well, i called napa this morning..and they dont stock that pully...he said we had to call Ford!...so we did...and it'll cost us $215 from ford! What could go wrong in the keyway??
AutoZone.com shows the Pioneer DA-1950 new aftermarket crank pulley for $166.99. RockAuto.com shows an ATP 102019 for $89.51 (doesn't mention if it's new or reman). For reference, the Ford p/n is F3DZ*6B321*A with a list price of $299.21 for the ATX.

A number of people have done 3.2L conversions (or have parts cars) and probably have ATX pulleys laying around -- suggest you post a WTB in the Open Forum, you can probably get one much cheaper there.
 

jthomas68

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I`ve seen stock pullies on E Bay go for $10,so i`d ave to agree to ask around here for one.The keyway is known to go bad when a pulley comes loose and wears at it.You still haven`t said what exactly the problem is,so i don`t suggest you throw money at a pulley just yet.If it`s a stock pulley,and it`s on tight,there isn`t really anything that can go bad on it.Why do you think the pulley needs to be replaced?
 

sleepa

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The reason, i think it is the pully, is because you can visually see that the pully has moved INWARDS toward the Engine and is rubbing on something!

<small>[ December 26, 2002, 02:27 PM: Message edited by: sleepa ]</small>
 

projectSHO89

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It's not possible for the pully (a stock one) to move inward. Just can't happen. Either you have a aftermarket pulley as has been mentioned or your diagnosis is incorrect.

Since it's quite possible that an aftermarket pully was installed by a previous owner, that remains a possibility. If it was replaced, chances are you have other underdrive pulleys also. This may complicate getting the correct size (length) of serpentine belt.

Don't throw any money into parts until you're sure of the diagnosis and what your options are.

Good luck.

Steve

<small>[ December 26, 2002, 03:19 PM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>
 

jthomas68

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Yes,please get a good look at the pulley,and let us know exactly what you see.The stock pulley is a solid unit that butts up against a "wall".Correct,it can NOT move inward,it`s not possible.An underdrive crank pulley,which has the rubber,could seperate(which is known it happen),allowing the outer ring to move as you`re describing.
 

SHOZ123

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They key can get loose and start eating away at the keyway. You will need to shim it up and get a bigger key if this is the case.

If you have a timing light try this. Put several caulk marks on the fan belt at regular intervals. Then start the engine and watch the marks as you goose the motor. When the speed drops down to idle see if the marks move backward a bit then back forward.

<small>[ December 26, 2002, 09:49 PM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>
 

projectSHO89

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Paul,

If the keyway opens up and allows the pully to "slop" on the crank, it will do so in the axis of rotation. Depending on where the slop occurs, it could damage the keyway on the dampener pully, the timing belt pully, or both. Your procedure will identify a sloppy dampener pully keyway but not the timing belt pulley.

The original poster indicated his diagnosis was that the accessory portion of pulley had shifted inward toward the block and that the accessory belt was riding over the front lip of the pully ******.

Steve
 

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