The dreaded P0020...

[FighAsHuck]

Been dealing with this problem pretty much since I picked the car up (2015 PP) a couple months ago. Solenoid itself was easy enough to replace, but the code came back the same day. So it's a wiring issue, yeah? How do I check the wiring with a multimeter? What settings should the multimeter be on and what should I be looking for? I've cleaned the connector and used dielectric grease on it with no luck. I'm not experienced with electrical issues and would like a somewhat in depth explanation if possible. I also want to get some datalogs sent off for a methanol tune I'm running but fear that CEL will not give me accurate logs. Thank you for any help.

 

[stripSHO]

I don't have any specific experience with this problem so take my advice with a grain of salt. But I'd start by checking resistance (ohms) across the terminals of the solenoid itself and comparing it to the other solenoids to make sure they match up. Once that's ruled out, plug in the connector and follow the wires back to the PCM connector (looking for obvious damage along the way), disconnect it, and measure the resistance again across those wire connections. If they vary greatly from what you read directly at the solenoid then there's something wrong in the wiring.

Beyond that, I'm guessing it could also be a clogged oil line or perhaps a bad phaser? My understanding is that this code comes from the cam position sensor input not matching with the commanded position. Again, I could be very wrong. But at least it's something to start with until those who are better versed can chime in!

 

[Zpak]

Don’t ever rule out the new solenoid either. Though unlikely, just because it’s new doesn’t mean it’s good. As stated above, checking the resistance of the new vs the old would be a good place to start.

 

[FighAsHuck]

But I'd start by checking resistance (ohms) across the terminals of the solenoid itself and comparing it to the other solenoids to make sure they match up. Once that's ruled out, plug in the connector and follow the wires back to the PCM connector (looking for obvious damage along the way), disconnect it, and measure the resistance again across those wire connections. If they vary greatly from what you read directly at the solenoid then there's something wrong in the wiring.

Will try this tomorrow!

Also I have no idea why I posted this here and not in maintenance.

 

[OmaHahn]

Great thread! I just started getting this same error about a month ago. Took car in and they said the Tech cleaned some stuff (I don't recall exactly what he said). But the code came back about a week later, it came back immediately after I threw some e85 gas into her. I have a Gearhead Tune that handles up to around 95 octane so I mix about 2 gallons of e85 with 93. I wasn't sure if it was the e85 causing this code to come back or an actual repair issue....?

 

[FighAsHuck]

Took car in and they said the Tech cleaned some stuff (I don't recall exactly what he said). But the code came back about a week later

From all the research and testing I've done, and after replacing the solenoid itself, I am 95% sure most of these are from wiring issues. After doing more testing today, I saw some visible copper coming from one of the wires for the solenoid connector/plug. I'm not sure if the failure is contained to only near the plug. I still have to follow the wires back to the harness and test resistance to see if it's somewhere in the wire, but at this point I am very positive that is what it is. Not sure how to rewire the plug, though. I guess that's my next step.

 

[Johnbigdog]

Ford sells pigtails. You get a hard shell and the pins already together and about 5-6 inches of wire.

 

[FighAsHuck]

Ford sells pigtails. You get a hard shell and the pins already together and about 5-6 inches of wire.

You are a scholar and a gentlemen. This will save me LOTS of time and frustration. Thank you! Will report back tomorrow if this fixes it or not.

 

[FighAsHuck]

Ford didn't have the pigtail, so I will get one on Monday. It was $50 however, so I decided to try to rewire the plug instead. I couldn't find the square terminal connector anywhere in my town, so I stripped the terminal down to metal terminal and wire. Lengthened the wires, heat shrunk everything, put the connector back together (a lot easier than I thought), and so far... so good. I may still wait for that plug, but at the same time $50 is a lot for that little thing. I only put about 5 miles on it, so I should know either today or tomorrow if the CEL comes back on. If it doesn't come back on by Sunday, I'm going to cancel the order for that pigtail.

 

[SHOdded]

VCT solenoid connectors MOTORCRAFT WPT1094 {#AU2Z14S411ADA} I believe
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...e+valve+timing+(vvt)+solenoid+connector,20157

 

[FighAsHuck]

VCT solenoid connectors MOTORCRAFT WPT1094 {#AU2Z14S411ADA} I believe

The one I need is definitely the one above it, S1415. And that is incredibly cheap for the same shipping time. My CEL is still off and I have been doing mixed driving (cruising and hard acceleration). It still suffers from rough cold start ups, so I wonder if maybe I mixed the wires up, or maybe the solenoid went bad again. Either way, I am going to install the pigtail I get from Ford since I know that will be 100% correct and see if that fixes the other small issues. But... no CEL so I really have no idea. Could it be a tune issue?

 

[SHOdded]

Ecoboosts go into closed loop operation in about 30 seconds. They can run rough at startup, so it all depends on just how rough your SHO is running, and for how long. If something IS wrong, there can be multiple reasons, including a weak battery/charging system, weak COPs, or overdue spark plugs. Sometimes lower grade fuels will affect it too - stale fuel, too much water, ... Maybe try running a bottle of HEET (yellow) just to eliminate moisture in the fuel as a cause. Any rattles on startup?

 

[FighAsHuck]

Ecoboosts go into closed loop operation in about 30 seconds. They can run rough at startup, so it all depends on just how rough your SHO is running, and for how long.

It's really not bad at all and I'm probably being neurotic after the CEL mess. However, rewiring the plug did the trick. Sent logs to the tuner, flashed the revision, and she's running like a champ!

 

[SHOdded]

 

[OmaHahn]

When I see posts saying "a wiring issue," what does this mean? I bought my car new and maintain it to the highest level. What wiring issue could just happen out of the blue? I still need to take my car in - sick of the check engine light on with this code. I have an extended warranty, hope to goodness this is covered - can't pay $1,415!

 

[FighAsHuck]

When I see posts saying "a wiring issue," what does this mean?

What it means is that somewhere between the plug for the solenoid (metal terminal pins plus 2 wires), and the main harness that wiring runs to, is an electrical short. For me, it was where the wiring met the plug itself. It came from the factory with only electrical tape and no wire loom. I believe this led to faster degrading from heat. After pulling the tape off the wires to the solenoid plug, the ground wire easily broke off from the plug. That is when I knew it was a wiring issue. I tested Ohm resistance on the solenoid with a multimeter to make sure that wasn't the issue (resistance was something like 9.5ohms). I then fixed the broken wire, and the solenoid is now getting power again to do its job. Check resistance on your solenoid first, to rule out if you need a new one or not. Mine was brand new at 9.5ohms, and the solenoid works now. There's also several places the wires can rub and get shorts in, covered in other threads.

 

[SHOdded]

Just like knowing a bit about computers is a foundational skill today, the DVoM plays a similar role in the vehicular industry. A tiny device capable of endowing SO much power!