Temp rises at idle, lowers when the throttle is pressed

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Okay, here's what I see is happening, and what I think is going on, sometime tell me if I'm right. My girlfriend noticed that the SHO was heating up (Between the N and the O) when stopped or in heavy traffic, but when she got back up to speed it went back down to normal (Between the M and the L). Now last night I found a small coolant leak on the accessories side of the engine. A very small puddle after a minute of idling. I assume it has to be either the water pump, the radiator, or the hose. I replaced the waterpump and the radiator, the waterpump is quiet and the leak is too far back for the radiator. So I assume a hose? Maybe it's a small leak letting in air and there's a bubble in the upper radiator hose? The coolant level in the overflow tank is perfect, so I'm thinking the bubble in the hose is keeping it that way, am I right? Thanks!
 

93rev2sev

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Check coolant level --- inside the radiator. The overflow bottle is not always accurate.
When the system comes up to temp, the coolant system pressure increases. This increased pressure pushes coolant into the overflow bottle. When the system cools, it loses pressure and the same amount of coolant is sucked out of the overflow bottle(theoretically). If there is a leak, this method stops working because instead of sucking coolant out of the bottle, it sucks air through the leak.
You said you changed the water pump, and the coolant level in the bottle is fine...Top off the radiator and tell us how much it took.

You know that cap on your radiator that says do not remove? Remove it. Run the engine up to temperature and keep topping off the coolant-through the radiator cap. This will cycle all of the coolant through the engine, and work out any air bubbles. It wont pressurize the system so leave the cap off while the engine cools and top it off again when it's cool (hours later). Then, When everything is cool, empty the overflow bottle, top it off again, replace the radiator cap, and run the engine back up to temp.

There should now be some fluid in the overflow bottle. If not, you gots a leak, time for a coolant system pressure tester. If used corectly a coolant system pressure tester is THE BEST way to find a coolant leak. Just don't pump the system past 16 lbs.
 
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I'll have to check the fans, would you assume a fuse would be the culprit? I checked the hoses for air, all I got was a big rush of antifreeze, no air what so ever. I can't find a leak either, it didn't show up with all my driving. I was sitting in front of it after driving for a while, refinishing my headlights, and I didn't see a hint of a leak, so I can't figure out what it is. Could it be if it's getting hot because of the fans that it's leaking? I assume alot, but I like to consider all possiblities presented to me.
 

yamahaSHO

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You just need it on long enough to see if the fan kicks on... You can disconnect the connector to the conmpressor if you feel you need to.
 

whiteman_01

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I had a dodge avenger that did the same thing, it turned out it was pretty low on coolant.
 
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Nope, the fan didn't come on. I checked the fuse too for the **** of it, it's only 50amps when it should be 60, but it's not blown. I didn't know it was one of those high current fuses or I would've never bothered.

And when I check the coolant it's right up to the cap and right up to the 'hot' line in the overflow bottle. No bubbles so I can't imagine it being that anymore.
 
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How do I do that? It's dark now so I can't really do too much. I mean it's not moving, so I dunno what else to check.
 
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Curious, why does rock auto, advance auto parts, ect, only have the left side motor? I mean, is that the only one you can take out?
 

Mr Anonymous

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The fan won't come on even with MAX A/C selected on the EATC if there's not enough pressure to engage the a/c clutch.

Just run an EEC self-test (read the codes) and that should cycle the fan telling you if the fan itself is OK plus the CCRM.
 

Mr Anonymous

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Your PCM, CCRM and fan are OK based on your tests so far. Next thing I'd recommend checking/replacing is the ECT sensor.
 

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