Synthetic oil

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E1

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SHOZ123 said:
Good oil and cheap.


No. Cheap isn't the right reason.

It's a LOT more than that.
The Rotella oil has a LOT of additives that "Regular" oils no longer carry. The "Old" oils used to carried these additives which benefitted solid lifter pushrod cars. New emmissions BS relegated these additives to the sidelines to help clean up emmisiions, I'm told. When these additives were removed from "Normal" oil formulations, Older Solid lifter cars started wiping out cams left and right. A simple solution was finding oils that retained the additives.
Rotella does just this.
The Diesel motors don't have these requirements so they still allow these additives
ALL SHO motors are Solid Lifter Cam Engines. These additives are essential to the V6 cars and beneficial to the V8 cars which don't have the 60 k wear issues but still have solid lifters.
 

NebraskaSHO

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Errr... it's not really a lifter is it, but more of a cap over the valve & spring right?

So Shell Rotella T 5w-40 is what you would suggest to run?
 
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E1

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pcross_53 said:
Errr... it's not really a lifter is it, but more of a cap over the valve & spring right?

A Tappet shim and Bucket. But it is functionally more similar to a solid lifter on a traditional camshaft than a roller lifter is. Basically 2 solid objects striking each other without much of a friction reducing shock absorber between them like a rolling wheel with a hydraulic cylinder behind it. (typical hydraulic roller lifter like a 5.0 would have)
 

93rev2sev

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The only time I agree with the "don't run synthetic" rule is with a brand new engine. Regular oil should be used to help seat the rings.
 

Paul L Fisher

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93rev2sev said:
The only time I agree with the "don't run synthetic" rule is with a brand new engine. Regular oil should be used to help seat the rings.

Not always true. A lot of cars come from the factory with synthetic installed.
 

SHOclub1

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Yes, the old mechanics tale of synthetic not letting an engine break in correctly is just that...and old mechanics tale that has no basis in reality.

Corvette, Porsche, lots of high end cars get nothing but synthetic from the factory.
 

Paul L Fisher

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SHOclub1 said:
Yes, the old mechanics tale of synthetic not letting an engine break in correctly is just that...and old mechanics tale that has no basis in reality.

Corvette, Porsche, lots of high end cars get nothing but synthetic from the factory.

Yep. Every BMW and VW comes with synthetic as well.
 

Ragnor_pi

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Extended Synthetic Oil changes

I have posted information before concerning oil changes. So once again FYI!!!

With a premimum synthetic oil and a nano technology oil filter, you can go up to 35,000 miles per year between oil and filter changes. I have gone over 100,000 miles without a oil change. I still have the engine for viewing that was used during that 9 year situation. You must of course research the oil and filter supplier the verify their validity. The newest, in oil and filter techonology is so far ahead of 25 years ago it is truly mind boggling for those who have not followed it. I have detailed information and experience. It is possible, with proper filtration, in both air and oil filtering, along with the best of synthetic oils, to go to very extended oil changes and still get 300, 400, 500, 600, thousand miles from you autos. The information and technology are there for you to discover. All oils meet or exceed pre determined minium standard, these are set by SAE and ASTM, some choose to do much better than the minumn stadard.
I use an OW30 in my 3.2 ltr, it is a 30 weight oil the flows a 76 degrees below ZERO, it runs cooler, produces more usable horsepower,torque and higher fuel mileage, it also avoids dry cold start ups and with stand heat that would destroy lesser oils, and should give me a great many more miles than I would with any other oil.
Shell Rotella is a 12 tbn oil designed for the problems associated with Diesel fuel and soot loading in the oil. Most gasoline oils are 6 tbn oils using the minium standards required. The higher the tbn number the higher the additive package loading for a particuler oil. That is a good thing, as long as the oil weight range, is also proper for the engines designed clearances.
There is far to much information to put here, but there is one good thing to remember, THERE ARE NO GOOD, CHEAP OILS. Why would anyone put a cheap oil in their expensive toy???? It makes no sense.
 
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V8 Jellybean

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I just ordered 4 gallons of Amsoil XL 5w30. I considered the Amsoil 0w-30, but the price has bumped up considerabley since the last time I ran it in anything. The 4 gallons will get the SHO changed, and the two trucks.
 

66goat

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I just changed out to 5W30 AMSOIL, this was after about 500 miles recomended after cams were welded by nesho. So everything is real clean now. I went with the super purolator filter too so it will be interesting to see how long the oil stays clear. I am thinking minimum 5K before a change but i will see how it goes. the car does seem to run better, but they seem to run better after washing &wax too.
 

Paul L Fisher

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66goat said:
so it will be interesting to see how long the oil stays clear.


It doesn't matter what it looks like. I have a VW Golf TDI which as soon as you start the car, the oil turns black. Have the oil analyzed after 10,000 miles and it comes back almost as good as new. Since the engine is a turbo diesel with EGR, it pumps soot into the motor so the oil goes black.

Oil can look good and still be worn out.

With Amsoil 5W-30, 5,000 miles would be throwing out brand new oil. Assuming you didn't go with the XL stuff, it can easily go 1 year or 35,000 miles. I ran the Amsoil 0W-30 in my '93 and '99 SHO with extended oil changes and whenever I had the drain oil analyzed it came back good for additional use.
 

66goat

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I guess it's kind of old school thinking, years of selling "time to get the oil changed see how dirty it is" . I had a VW diesel so i know what you mean about that, the SHO should be a different story, it seems to be so far anyway. If it still looks good at say 10k where do you get your oil tested? (dumb question?) I still wonder if I could get past the mental block and keep it in there.
 

Paul L Fisher

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66goat said:
where do you get your oil tested?
I use an Amsoil oil test kit and they use a company called Oil Analyzers Inc.

I get every oil change analyzed in all my vehicles and after 10,000 miles in my TDI, 15,000 miles in my BMW 540 and 10,000 miles in my BMW M Roadster it always says 'good for continued use'. My TDI has 174,000 miles on it and doesn't burn a drop of oil. Well.... it actually burns a gallon every 47 miles but it's supposed to do that.
 

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