Synthetic oil

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roland

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this stuff really works!!!!

I thought it was gonna just me a little bit better, but my car is torque-steering like a wild bull, and it's running about identical to my mom's mark VIII, i'm wanting badly to take both of em out and race em side by side to 100.

BTW maybe my ears are screwing with me, but my car seems a lot quieter and more refined than before the oil change, which since i don't have any mufflers is kinda odd, but it does sound a lot better now than before the change, and i may just leave the mufflers off for awhile.

Also, every single truck with straight pipes in town that i came across tried to race me tonight, i am sho-in love again. :type:
 

shofan071

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Synthetic is great. How many miles do you guys go between changes? I've heard 5-6k is average for synthetic. But perhaps less between changes would be better...
 
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Ict_Lx

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Same here. I've been told you can go longer but why risk it? Oil is pretty cheap in the grand scheme of things.
 

V8 Jellybean

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Does anyone use, or has anyone tried 0w30 synthetic in the northern states for the winter months?
 

97SHOgt

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I have a question for everybody...when I bought my car I had the receipts from the cams being pinned and various other maintenance and it said right on the receipt "DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OIL." You guys are making me want to switch over but I really don't want to mess anything up. Do you guys think it would be ok to switch over to synthetic or do you think there would be serious consequences if I did. Any input?
 

97SHOgt

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I'm going to try and dig out the papers. I've had the car for over two years now, and it was the previous owner that had the work done. I may have to look into it. In the end it really isn't a big deal, I guess I may just be losing a few measly HP using regular oil. I just wasn't sure why they specified that on the receipt.
 

SHOclub1

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I would love to hear the logic behind telling someone not to use synthetic after pinning the cams.

Of course we know that pinning the a much more expensive and dangerous method of fixing the cam problem. And pins have backed out causing severe damage. (to be fair, bad cam welds have also given way, but properly welded cams seem to be the best permanent solution).

There really can be no good excuse for making that statement. is the mechanic afraid the "super slick" oil will make his pins fall out? If so, they weren't a good job in the first place.

Synthetic will reduce friction, and I don't know anyone that can say that is bad in an engine.

Anyway, you can use synthetic in any SHO, it helps the engine. Yes, quality regular oil is treating your engine good also. But every test I have ever seen says that over a typical lifetime of use, synthetic measureably reduces wear and tear. If you keep a vehicle a long time, I is worth the extra cost, and if you use Amsoil (Yes, I sell it), or other properly formulated oil, you can extend drain intervals and actually save money using synthetics. I ran oil to 25,000 miles when driving my '89 daily. I used a bypass oil filter and did regular oil analysis (about every 10,000 miles) and when we replaced the bottom end bearings just for the heck of it, they were in great shape at 180,000 miles.

The "0" weight oil is great for those that live where it gets real cold, but you can run it year round. Getting oil to flow quick is essential to reducing wear on cold startup. the 0-30 oils are superb at this. I ran it year round.
 

V8 Jellybean

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That's what I was considering... Amsoil 0w-30 for winter months (MN).
I'm set up as a 'preferred customer', and I've had no complaints about Amsoil over the years. Thanks for the input Don.
 

YAHTEC

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Heres a rumor that I've heard and dont believe:

"You can't switch to synthetic oil if you've never ran it in the car before."

That doesn't make any sense to me but maybe its just because I dont know enough about oil to decide. Can somebody help out with this one?

Oh and the running oil changes up to 6-10,000 mile intervals, certain oils can go for that long but I would recommend changing the filter at least every 5K. just my 2cents
 
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SHOclub1

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To Yahtec:

There are a bunch of "old mechanics tales" about synthetic oil. Most came from the fact that when Synthetic came onto the scene about WWII, most oils had a lot of Parafin in them and did NOT have any detergent to keep engines clean. Old style leather and cloth seals needed the accumulated parafin and dirt to "plug up" the seal and prevent big leaks. Putting detergent oil in these cars of ANY type, regular or synthetic caused big leaks. Since Synthetic was new, it got the undeserved rep of causing leaks. Since it didn't break down and turn to sludge or run like molassis when cold, it also was thought to be "thin and runny" and prone to leaking more than regular oil.

Truth is that ALL oils in cars today are detergent, and all oils that meet the various specifications can be interchanged or even mixed with no bad results. It is best to stay within the range of weight specified by the manufacturer or rebuilder. Synthetic also will retain it's specified weight range better than regular oil so it is LESS likely to leak or burn through than regular oil.

You CAN switch to synthetic at any point in an engines life. You can switch back to regular. There will be no bad effects either way.

So why do some people still insist that they get more oil use/leaks with synthetics? (and some will post so here you can bet). Basically it is because engines sometimes use more oil due to weather, driving style than due to what oil you run. I can site cases of LESS oil use/leaks with synthetic for every case of increased use. Sometimes you get what you expect. Someone will "try" synthetic, but they are not a believer. So they get what they expect, more oil use because the monitor the situation better than before. There is no valid proof that synthetic by itself will leak or get burned up more than regular oil, in fact, quite the opposite.

Most high end NEW cars get synthetic from the first turn at the factory so there goes another "old mechanics tale" that cars won't break in properly with synthetic. Bunk, you can run synthetic from brand new.

We DO have much proof from every authoritative source that using quality synthetic will reduce wear and tear, and increase gas mileage (slightly, not talking a miracle here).

Finally, about extended drain intervals. With a synthetic designed for extended drain intervals, you can extend to 25,000 miles or more between changes. This isn't pie in the sky, I have done it many times, and truckers do it all the time. Porsche recommends extended drain intervals from new, and most new cars that have an oil change monitor through the computer will let you go 7000+ miles easily if you drive some on the highway (stop and go short trips are the hardest on oil and the engine). If in doubt, follow your manufacturers recommendations, but especially when out of warranty, you can extend drain intervals, and save money, help the environment and more.

Don
 

Paul L Fisher

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V8 Jellybean said:
Does anyone use, or has anyone tried 0w30 synthetic in the northern states for the winter months?

I ran 0W-30 Amsoil synthetic in both my '93 and '99 SHO year round.
 

SHOZ123

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Shell Rotella T 5w40. I use to use the Amsoil but the Shell is easily available and cheap at WalMart. It is a type III though.
 

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