Suspension Issues/Scheduled Maintenance 60K

[burga]

Hello! I just recently reached 60k on the odometer on my non-PP 2017 SHO, and I was looking to see everything I should be looking out for replacing that's outside of what the manual already recommends.

I also have an issue where my car makes a humming noise while slowing down/coasting at slow speeds regardless of brake usage or if I'm in neutral or drive. I also am now having an issue where the car starts to vibrate a little bit with light to moderate brake pressure, both issues sounding to be suspension/undercarriage related? I'm not a mechanic so I truly do not know, but I wonder if anybody has any ideas? I also have a sheet attached of what I was inquiring about for maintenance. Thanks for all the help and best regards to all of you!

 

[SHOdded]

if you use the normal operating schedule as a guide, you likely will be mistaken.

the SHO likes the special/severe operating conditions schedule.

start by checking codes with an obd scan tool and report back. you may have temporary, pending, active, and historical codes showing up.

replace ALL fluids either with annual drain/fills or full exchange every 5/60 from mile 0 as a guideline.

because there is no specified interval for ptu/rdu fluid changes, you MUST make it a regular maintenance item. typically suggest no more than 3/36 for the ptu and double that or 6/72 that for the rdu. also suggest using top notch fluids like amsoil severe gear or redline lightweight shockproof. police interceptors typically use 10k intervals for ptu fluid changes as a comparison.

check/replace the plugs, rotate coils from front to back/back to front. check for oil and fuel on plugs. no more than 5/60 for new plugs. less if driven aggressively.

sounds like your SHO needs new tires and or bearings. if rotating tires does not make a difference, then likely you need 1 or more bearings to fix the humming sound.

if brakes have never been replaced, now is a good time to inspect and change pads and rotors. dont be tempted to cheap out by changing just the pads. rotors have minimal thickness from factory. even if you could find a place to lathe the rotors back to spec, their longevity is suspect. you can get g3500 rotor based kits in the 300$ price range, f and r.

flush brake fluid, cycle the abs with forscan lite or by braking hard in reverse on a gravel road several times. necessary to get air out of the abs.

there have been issues with rear toe links in particular, so when doing a suspension/steering check, watch out for them.

hubs can get rusty over time if you live in the salt belt and can be a bear to remove. if you can afford hub and knuckle together (oem preferred), do so.

if you have the moonroof, clean and **** the tracks w dielectric grease. blow out the drains as well.

hth for starters

 

[burga]

if you use the normal operating schedule as a guide, you likely will be mistaken.

the SHO likes the special/severe operating conditions schedule.

start by checking codes with an obd scan tool and report back. you may have temporary, pending, active, and historical codes showing up.

replace ALL fluids either with annual drain/fills or full exchange every 5/60 from mile 0 as a guideline.

because there is no specified interval for ptu/rdu fluid changes, you MUST make it a regular maintenance item. typically suggest no more than 3/36 for the ptu and double that or 6/72 that for the rdu. also suggest using top notch fluids like amsoil severe gear or redline lightweight shockproof. police interceptors typically use 10k intervals for ptu fluid changes as a comparison.

check/replace the plugs, rotate coils from front to back/back to front. check for oil and fuel on plugs. no more than 5/60 for new plugs. less if driven aggressively.

sounds like your SHO needs new tires and or bearings. if rotating tires does not make a difference, then likely you need 1 or more bearings to fix the humming sound.

if brakes have never been replaced, now is a good time to inspect and change pads and rotors. dont be tempted to cheap out by changing just the pads. rotors have minimal thickness from factory. even if you could find a place to lathe the rotors back to spec, their longevity is suspect. you can get g3500 rotor based kits in the 300$ price range, f and r.

flush brake fluid, cycle the abs with forscan lite or by braking hard in reverse on a gravel road several times. necessary to get air out of the abs.

there have been issues with rear toe links in particular, so when doing a suspension/steering check, watch out for them.

hubs can get rusty over time if you live in the salt belt and can be a bear to remove. if you can afford hub and knuckle together (oem preferred), do so.

if you have the moonroof, clean and **** the tracks w dielectric grease. blow out the drains as well.

hth for starters

Thank you so much for your insight and advice! I had some assumptions with the PTU and trans fluid not being as "lifetime like" as the manual tried to play it out as. In about a week I'm gonna purchase a Bluetooth OBD tool from Ancel and report back all of the codes it gives me.