I had a pretty hard barrier curb impact on my front passenger wheel, bad enough that a new rim and tire are needed. My question is, if the car can be aligned with a new tire/wheel, is that enough "proof" that there was no suspension damage in absence of any visual damage indication? Are there any specific things I should look for during a visual assessment?
Suspension damage assessment after curb strike destroyed front wheel and tire
- Thread starter jim1274
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
TimboSHO
Intermediate
You posted this in the Gen IV section, but I see no Gen IV in your sig. What year SHO is this? I would look for bent strut, lower control arm and mounting points to subframe for bends.
sperold
Last to Know
The fact it can be aligned would be pretty good proof that things are OK. All suspension places are pretty quick to point out anything that is not just perfect.
Compare things left side to right side. If something is curved on one side and straight on the other, then it is time to look at some manuals to see if that is possible.
If you measure something that is not the same (from say the cross member back to some point), go to a dealership and take the same measurement on another car before you conclude your car is damaged.
Compare things left side to right side. If something is curved on one side and straight on the other, then it is time to look at some manuals to see if that is possible.
If you measure something that is not the same (from say the cross member back to some point), go to a dealership and take the same measurement on another car before you conclude your car is damaged.
I did do a quick visual and nothing stood out, but did not do an A/B vs. opposite side yet. Once I find a replacement wheel and get my tire in, I will take a real close look when I take it in to get the new one mounted and installed--easier to see when they have it up in the air. I can't imagine that it is not knocked out of alignment at a minimum, but am guardedly optimistic on suspension damage as it really seemed to drive OK getting it home even with a smashed rim and chunk missing from tire all the way down to the last plys.
notbange
Love fiST
If the steering isnt crooked it is probably ok. Get it aligned, they will let you know if something is majorly out of whack.
Definitely was going to get it aligned when the new wheel/tire is installed. This was my first meeting with a barrier curb in 40+ years of driving, so maybe the suspension is more robust than I am thinking. Since the car only has 500 miles on it, I just want to make sure it is perfect when done.
Crash712us
Chasing my tail
The alignment should had a print out of the before and after alignment. How far it was out of alignment and would be indicated and which wheels where out and how much.
notbange
Love fiST
The things to worry about after a hit like that are camber and caster, if the caster is ****** up then either the subframe shifted or something got bend badly like a strut or control arm, but he is saying his steering is still okay so the rim probably took the damage. I am not sure if you can even adjust camber from the factory on a 4th gen, I am guessing not.
I think the tire took a good share of the impact before the rim from the two chunks ripped from the sidewall. The rim is not bent too bad and tire is still holding air since incident on Friday. I will note results when alignment is checked. I found the tire locally but still am trying to decide on new OEM vs reconditioned wheel--these rims are salty new or would have already just fixed at the dealer.
Any dealer/tire shop should be able to get the wheel fixed for you. I've had two of mine repaired for both curb rash and hitting *** holes. The inside to the sim is one of the weakest I think I've ever seen. It'll bend pretty easily when hitting *** holes.
89SHOMAN666
SHO NUT!
That is pretty typical. An impact of that nature can cause damage to or break the bearing cage. Brinelling a portion of the bearing race is also possible. After either of the aforementioned issues the bearing is toast...
Many bearings today have plastic/polymer cages instead of steel/brass. It will be difficult if not impossible to get the lifespan of a properly maintained timken tapered roller bearing used on the older cars out of the hub assembles installed on the modern cars today.
Example: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1559732156-post1.html
Last edited:
I never thought of having my actual wheel reconditioned--probably should have done that before buying the reconditioned replacement that is on the way.
It really does not seem bent as much as ground down--think I hit it somewhat parallel to the curb--the tire sticks out a bit on the profile and the two chunks of tire gouged out may have cushioned some of the impact.
Now I am trying to figure out if the now discontinued version of the Eagle RS-A is equivalent enough to the new version to mix on my vehicle--the local tire dealers have not been able to answer that question for me.
Got my reconditioned wheel today (looked like brand new) and promptly went down and got it installed. The alignment was slightly off, but they said not enough to suggest any suspension damage. :sun::woo-hoo:
Thanks for everyone's input--rolling again!
Can work on my audio system upgrade now....and Livernois tune....
Thanks for everyone's input--rolling again!
Can work on my audio system upgrade now....and Livernois tune....
Similar threads
