Super Noob Question

[encryptshun]

I am totally new to SHO's and i picked one up. i have a couple of questions i would love to have answered. i have a noise that is coming from the passenger side im thinking it is the AC compressor is going bad or something, but it kinda ticks when im driving but when i pretty much give it gas it goes away, i also have a low coolant light on but the coolant level is good. also, i have a check engine light that comes on, and then comes off certain times. now here is the noob question, how in the heck can you check a CEL code for an ODB 1 vehicle? im totally stumped

 

[1993MTXSHO]

Checking Engine trouble codes:

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm

oh and as far as the low coolant, pull the sensor thing out and just clean the contacts, they get corroded and crapped up after years of use and can cause false readings

 

[encryptshun]

Ok i havent had the time to check the codes yet, but thank you for the link. its actually kind of cold here in Florida for once! i am actually encountering another problem with the SHO. its hard to explain but the back passenger wheel feels like it wants to fly off when i go over a bump. Ive checked the lugnuts to see if they are tight and yes they are, but when i hit a bump even going slow it feels like it wants to fly off and the rear end kicks out like im driving a RWD car. what could it be? i was thinking wheel bearings but they do not make a noise when driving

 

[twr]

Blown strut would be my guess

 

[Kens1992mtxSHO]

Welcome aboard... hope you find the answers you're looking for. The above posts are a great place to start.

 

[jpSHO]

Without more info that ticking noise could be anything from an exhaust leak to a timing belt that needs to be replaced. It gets too much slack and slaps against the timing belt cover. As for the engine light I would invest in a good obd 1 scanner that does freeze frame data and live stream data only if you plan on keeping it for a long time. I have yet to see an SHO without an engine light that stays off for any amount of time.

 

[jthod]

THe timing tensioner will make the ticknig noisce, but usually increases with RMS's. It may be a water pump bearing, ALT bearaing, AC comperssor....etc

the best wat to check those is to take the belts off, and see if that makes the noise go away while running. Just run the engine for short amount of time, and see if it goes away.

 

[Brett]

How mechanically inclined are you? Do you know the difference between a tick and a knock? A rod knock can sound awful light, and go away once the rpms get up.

The CEI coming on and off while driving kinda sounds like a clogged EGR, no way to know for certain until the codes a ran, its darn easy. good luck and enjoy the car.

 

[encryptshun]

How mechanically inclined are you? Do you know the difference between a tick and a knock? A rod knock can sound awful light, and go away once the rpms get up.

The CEI coming on and off while driving kinda sounds like a clogged EGR, no way to know for certain until the codes a ran, its darn easy. good luck and enjoy the car.

I have BOLDED my questions for the faster readers

Nah, Its not a rod Knock, the noise sounds like its a diesel truck moving ..earlier today i had the hood open and the car running, the noise is Definitely coming from the AC compressor, just from physically looking over top of it, it looks like its wobbling and is making that noise,, cuz when i turn the actual AC on it gets louder until I give the car some gas.plus i can smell a belt burning, And for the others thanks, but i again, have one more problem If i let the car sit, for lets say overnight or while i am at work, and then go to start it again, i have to crank it like 3 times for it to stay on. the rpms will just drop to 0 and die, unless i leave my foot on the gas for like 3-4 sec then it will sustain the normal RPM range. Tomorrow i am going to get an oil change and all my fluids checked/flushed. I have read about the "60k" and "120k" maintenance that needs to be done for the car. i have no knowledge if the car has ever gotten any of the work done. How much would something like this cost me? I live in Orlando FL if anyone has any suggestions or would like to help me it would be greatly appreciated ****, i got this car for free pretty much. (traded old busted broken 5.0). But anyway enough rambling. i will see if i can get pictures and a video of the noise, and compressor rattle

I really like this site and will look forward into being a "happy SHO owner"

 

[itwonder]

Starting problem sounds like a bad cam sensor (CID). 60K is a DIY job if you can follow http://www.shophoenixproject.com/maint.htm , or print it out for your mechanic to follow.

 

[Brett]

I have BOLDED my questions for the faster readers

Nah, Its not a rod Knock, the noise sounds like its a diesel truck moving ..earlier today i had the hood open and the car running, the noise is Definitely coming from the AC compressor, just from physically looking over top of it, it looks like its wobbling and is making that noise,, cuz when i turn the actual AC on it gets louder until I give the car some gas.plus i can smell a belt burning, And for the others thanks, but i again, have one more problem If i let the car sit, for lets say overnight or while i am at work, and then go to start it again, i have to crank it like 3 times for it to stay on. the rpms will just drop to 0 and die, unless i leave my foot on the gas for like 3-4 sec then it will sustain the normal RPM range. Tomorrow i am going to get an oil change and all my fluids checked/flushed. I have read about the "60k" and "120k" maintenance that needs to be done for the car. i have no knowledge if the car has ever gotten any of the work done. How much would something like this cost me? I live in Orlando FL if anyone has any suggestions or would like to help me it would be greatly appreciated ****, i got this car for free pretty much. (traded old busted broken 5.0). But anyway enough rambling. i will see if i can get pictures and a video of the noise, and compressor rattle

I really like this site and will look forward into being a "happy SHO owner"

Is your car MTX or ATX?

In reference to the 60-120k services. They aren't cheap, especially if you have them done. It can be a bit intimidating, particularly the valve lash, and rod bearings ( bearings may be easy, but is still a bit spooky). But after you've spent the initial 500-800 in maintenance, you'd be hard pressed to find a more reliable ride. The first time i had a very nice SHO fanatic do a complete overhaul of my motor, I almost never shift my car below 4k, and regularly wind it out a bit past 7k, always starts, always runs.

P.S. let me know if you solve the start issue, i have a friend in AZ who has the same problem.

 

[encryptshun]

ok, well i tooki the car to a mechanic today just for an oil chancge and to see what was causing the read end to mess up, turns out its the lower control arm is cracked. you can actually see it, and also the back tire is *****'d but ya lower control arm needs to be replaced. im guessing those arent too too expensive huh?

 

[fitefanSHO]

During the first year of typical SHO ownership, you can expect to replace or repair just about everything on the car, particularly if your bought the car from a non-enthusiast or if it was abused in the past. Once you get through that and fix everything, you're gonna love it!!

 

[jthod]

qfmft

 

[jpSHO]

I agree once you get through that first year or in my case like 2 years the car is a blast and very reliable. I repalced just about every sensor and bushing in my 95 ATX. I bought mine with 112,000 and I now have 234,000 and I never did a 60k or 120k which I need to do.

 

[rubydist]

I've also had the CEL on/off while driving, due to bad o2 sensors. The pcm will be in a specific cell on the program long enough to light the CEL, then the speed or load will change so its in a different cell and the CEL will go off - so that's also a possibility.

I've heard a really loose timing belt knock like a bad rod knock at idle, and go away as soon as the rpms got up a little.

The problem with not staying running after startup could also be a bad check valve in the fuel system not keeping the fuel pressure up. iirc, they are in the fuel pump on these cars. You can test this by *carefully* pushing on the shrader valve on the fuel rail before starting it - it should spray out fuel due to the pressure - if you can't get any fuel to spray out, then the fuel pressure is bleeding down somewhere. This could also be due to an injector that doesn't close properly.

 

[encryptshun]

You guys are very helpful and i really appreciate all of the input and guidance. its just right at the moment, my funds arent to extravagant to be spending paycheck after paycheck in maintenance for the car. i think my primary concern right now is the lower control arm, it just scares the **** out of me when i go over a bump, and i also want to get the tranny checked out as well. everyone at work is telling me i made a mistake by trading my 5.0 for this. i would really like to prove them wrong, only thing now is just the matter of money. whereabouts would i find a good price for lower C/As? oh yea, one more thing. will an OBD1 scanner work with this car?

 

[Eric VerValin]

During the first year of typical SHO ownership, you can expect to replace or repair just about everything on the car, particularly if your bought the car from a non-enthusiast or if it was abused in the past. Once you get through that and fix everything, you're gonna love it!!

You make that sound so simple.. lol :wave:

Just swap everything, and you'll have a good car... lol


Seriously tho... I did swap everything, and your right.. it is a nice car..




Ok... so your saying they told you that your REAR control arm was cracked? That seems a little funny to me.. can't say I've seen that before... I would almost think it sounds like a strut mount. My struts were shot in the rear, and it bounced around a lot. But when the mount went sour, it started kicking the ass end of the car around and pushing it sideways like you were describing. If it really is your control arm.. your best bet for a OE replacement would be a J/Y. You'll probally want new bushings in it too, nothing more than $20 for the whole thing.

 

[boat]

After reading the posts, yeah x4 on that one. I also have replaced just about everything and only had mine since late February of this year. Yeah, it is nice to drive once these things are fixed. I cannot believe the difference now, from when I got it. :woo-hoo:

Just read my signature below, you'll see what has been done to my 95 ATX....

During the first year of typical SHO ownership, you can expect to replace or repair just about everything on the car, particularly if your bought the car from a non-enthusiast or if it was abused in the past. Once you get through that and fix everything, you're gonna love it!!

 

[encryptshun]

ok i tried to read the codes and i think this is what i got.. i dunno maybe i f'd up

1.1.1
1.1.1
1.2.1
2.2.1
4.3.3
2.2.1
2.2.1
4.3.3