broken cats are very bad for the SHO motor, as the pieces of the failed rear cat tend to get pulled into the cylinders when the throttle is snapped shut. you definitely need to borrow or purchase a borescope and take a look inside the cylinders.
Suggestions - 3.2 MTX maintenance
- Thread starter SHOclass
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SHOclass
Conan has one
Looked in the cylinders and nothing seems amiss...
Kind of an ah-ha! moment yesterday while driving it...in my earlier posts I mention how my temperature gauge readout is consistently very low even after long periods of WOT in 80++ degree weather....owning this car for over 12 years that seemed very odd to me.
So I drive it for about 15-20 minutes the other day, go back home park it...go back outside to the car over an hour later...and as I walk passed the car I still feel the heat of the engine..hmm. I pop the hood and touch the intake...still almost too hot to touch !
Then the light bulb !....I couldn't remember the last time I heard my cooling fan come on....And it's been that way ever since my T-stat has been reading out differently...
I know this does not solve some of the other issues...but I hope I haven't cooked the engine in the process.
I want to replace that thermostat but I can't remember the "correct" one to get, I recall something about a revised thermostat for the SHO. thoughts ?
Oh...and I also am hearing a little metallic clicking noise coming from the exhaust (cats?) when trying to accelerate from low RPM's...mostly from 2nd gear ...then it goes away.
Kind of an ah-ha! moment yesterday while driving it...in my earlier posts I mention how my temperature gauge readout is consistently very low even after long periods of WOT in 80++ degree weather....owning this car for over 12 years that seemed very odd to me.
So I drive it for about 15-20 minutes the other day, go back home park it...go back outside to the car over an hour later...and as I walk passed the car I still feel the heat of the engine..hmm. I pop the hood and touch the intake...still almost too hot to touch !
Then the light bulb !....I couldn't remember the last time I heard my cooling fan come on....And it's been that way ever since my T-stat has been reading out differently...
I know this does not solve some of the other issues...but I hope I haven't cooked the engine in the process.
I want to replace that thermostat but I can't remember the "correct" one to get, I recall something about a revised thermostat for the SHO. thoughts ?
Oh...and I also am hearing a little metallic clicking noise coming from the exhaust (cats?) when trying to accelerate from low RPM's...mostly from 2nd gear ...then it goes away.
Motorcraft RT1112 – 192 degree – includes rubber seal preinstalled
AZ Duralast 15878 – 180 degree
AZ Duralast 15879 – 192 degree
Felpro 35278 – Seal
Install with the jiggle valve up. I use the Autozone thermostat, and it has been fine; nicely made.
AZ Duralast 15878 – 180 degree
AZ Duralast 15879 – 192 degree
Felpro 35278 – Seal
Install with the jiggle valve up. I use the Autozone thermostat, and it has been fine; nicely made.
your exhaust 'clicking' could be as simple as a loose heat shield on one of the cats that will resonate at certain rpm. when the engine is cold, I would play with the heat shields to see if anything is loose there.
SHOclass
Conan has one
Whats the advantage of the 192 t-stat over the 180 t-stat or vice versa ?
And the jiggle valve up ?
I'm positive it's not the heat shield making the noise.
Thank You
And the jiggle valve up ?
I'm positive it's not the heat shield making the noise.
Thank You
tery
Silvia survived the purge- summer car
the acetone is a good thing to do
192 is what factory installed. Both work well; I feel the 180 is a good choice for warm climates, and 192 is good for cold climates. I run the 180. The jiggle valve is in the ****** of the thermostat (see photos). It allows any air in the system to pass so an airlock cannot occur at the thermostat. Install with valve at at 12:00.
Duralast thermostat on left; Motorcraft on right
SHOclass
Conan has one
My local advanced auto says the 195 degree T-stat is OEM and doesnt even show a 192...
Is this going to make a big difference, should I just get it ?
Thank you for all the other info and pictures it really helps.
I replaced the T-stat myself about 4 years ago not knowing what degree t-stat it was (just told the guy i needed one and took the one he gave me)...and i'm pretty sure i didn't install it with that valve at 12 oclock.
I just want to replace it today and figure out if this is/was the issue of my cooling fan not coming on.
Thanks
Is this going to make a big difference, should I just get it ?
Thank you for all the other info and pictures it really helps.
I replaced the T-stat myself about 4 years ago not knowing what degree t-stat it was (just told the guy i needed one and took the one he gave me)...and i'm pretty sure i didn't install it with that valve at 12 oclock.
I just want to replace it today and figure out if this is/was the issue of my cooling fan not coming on.
Thanks
192 and 195 are the same for all practical purposes. The one on the right in the photo is the factory thermostat, and the 192 stamp is visible at about 7:00 position. I'm not familiar with what thermostats AA sells, but make sure it has the jiggle valve or don't use it.
I have used ones with and without jiggle valves and had no issues with either. very few thermostats seal off 100% when closed, and as long as some water/air can get through it will burp just fine. the only way a non-jiggle valve thermostat is going to cause a problem on this engine is if it really seals perfectly when closed.
SHOclass
Conan has one
Ordered one new spark plug to replace that already fouled one, Beck Arnley 192 degree T-stat with the "jiggle" valve + the seal. (rock auto)
Hoping this cures some of the performance issues and allows my cooling fan to come on.
Will report back when installed.
Hoping this cures some of the performance issues and allows my cooling fan to come on.
Will report back when installed.
cooling fan not coming on is more likely a bad ccrm - the relays get so the contacts are corroded over the years and eventually don't pull in or don't make connection even if they do pull in.
SHOclass
Conan has one
Installed the new thermostat and first spark plug today, flushed and refilled the coolant.
The fan came on finally! came on at exactly 192 degrees (measured with a laser temperature gun)
Never thought I'd be so happy to see the cooling fan come on....my temperature gauge is reading out normally now as well.
Today was really rainy and crappy out but I can tell the car is much happier and doesn't have that "clogged up" feeling.
The T-stat that was in there was stuck...and did not have a jiggle valve....there also seemed to be a good amount of trapped air in the system which was not helping.
I'm happy this issue wasn't something more serious....cost me < $10 in parts and a six pack of Sam Adams for my tech's help
The fan came on finally! came on at exactly 192 degrees (measured with a laser temperature gun)
Never thought I'd be so happy to see the cooling fan come on....my temperature gauge is reading out normally now as well.
Today was really rainy and crappy out but I can tell the car is much happier and doesn't have that "clogged up" feeling.
The T-stat that was in there was stuck...and did not have a jiggle valve....there also seemed to be a good amount of trapped air in the system which was not helping.
I'm happy this issue wasn't something more serious....cost me < $10 in parts and a six pack of Sam Adams for my tech's help
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