Sudden loss of power/Blinking CEL

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SHO_Off420

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So yesterday I was pulling up onto a road and right as I crossed about 90mph the car just cut out with a massive loss of power, noticed my CEL started blinking so I coasted, engine started to sound pretty rough, found out flashing CEL is usually a misfire the computer cant diagnose. Was able to limp home uner 45mph, at 50 the whole car would shutter so i figured I must be running on less than 6.

While it was idling I unplugged each coil one at a time, with the 5 and 6 coils i noticed no change so those 2 are misfiring, with the 1 and 4 the engine NOTICEABLY ran worse, and with 2 and 3 I barely noticed a difference, i didn't have an extension to pull the plugs so I will today, but the guy i bought it from said he just put new in within 3k miles so I assume the coils are all going, cars at 117k, so I had an excuse to order the MSD coils last night. Will let you guys know if that fixes the problem
 

FiveLeeter918

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Eek no bueno. Typically the blinking CEL is an ignition misfire, so you're on the right track.

Check all the plugs to make sure there are no cracks or heavy deposits, but if the coil swap test yielded the results you're describing, I think you found your issue.
 

SHO_Off420

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Eek no bueno. Typically the blinking CEL is an ignition misfire, so you're on the right track.

Check all the plugs to make sure there are no cracks or heavy deposits, but if the coil swap test yielded the results you're describing, I think you found your issue.
You guys got the log I sent put Friday right?
 

SHO_Off420

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yes sir, it's on the list for review.
Cool thanks, yeah i figure its the coils, still wanna check the plugs as we ran it without that upstream sensor for like 2 weeks, maybe i have a couple foul plugs, but its about time the coils died anyway
 

SHO_Off420

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Just got the 4, 5, 6 plugs pulled, here they are left to right is actually 5, 4, 6, i ran like 20 miles home so thats why 6 is wet, 5 and 6 are the coils I think are going/gone38e6a52c64c4d7991378d6c1fc2c8fe0
 

Johnbigdog

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swap the coils bank to bank. Same with the plugs. With them all removed you can do a compression test to rule out base engine.

Did you every retrieve DTCs?
 

SHO_Off420

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swap the coils bank to bank. Same with the plugs. With them all removed you can do a compression test to rule out base engine.

Did you every retrieve DTCs?
As I stated CEL is blinking so no codes.
 

Johnbigdog

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a blinking CEL is a misfire that is damaging the catalist. Basically a way to tell the driver someone is really wrong.

I would think that there should be something there. It may be posible there wasnt. but at least help in that you can make sure that there isn't something that can help you.
 

SHO_Off420

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Ok so the coils showed up, went to pull the 6 plug to check it again after I had done some tests the other night. Realized that it is actually covered in oil not gas.....so here we go, i guess ill pray its an o ring or gasket not a piston ring
 
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Johnbigdog

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Compression test and leak down tests sound to be in your future.

I was betting on an injector. Sad to hear its oil!
 

SHO_Off420

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Compression test and leak down tests sound to be in your future.

I was betting on an injector. Sad to hear its oil!
I am just removing the cover on that side right now. Its either a gasket or the ring on that piston, if its the gasket ill see the tear when I pull the cover off
 

Johnbigdog

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I am just removing the cover on that side right now. Its either a gasket or the ring on that piston, if its the gasket ill see the tear when I pull the cover off


Did you clean off the plugs before you took that picture? If it was oil in the spark plug well your coil and plug would be wet, not just the electrode of the plug.

You could also have a intake valve seal fault if your burning oil along with a ring, piston, or cylinder wall.

When you say o-ring are you talking about the valve seal? I thought of that after my post.

A manual compression test and a clinder leak down are a heck of a lot easier than pulling the valve cover.
 

SHO_Off420

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Yeah but either way the valve cover has to be removed eh? I don't have the tools for a compression test but I do have the tools to remove the valve cover and take a look around
At that point I had been thinking about the o rings at the top of the spark plug cups but they all look fine
 

SHO_Off420

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Compression test and leak down tests sound to be in your future.

I was betting on an injector. Sad to hear its oil!
I do have a PP so I would honestly be amazed if it was a piston or ring, there is a lot of oil getting into cylinder 6 very fast so im thinking its a torn head gasket. Is it possible a fuel pump leak would cause it? I see a lot of oil under the HPFP but im guesing thats just lubrication and cooling
 

SHO_Off420

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Ok so after a lot of thinking I figured that there was too much oil getting into the cylinder too fast. I spoke with Luis and he agreed and suggested I taste it to see if there was coolant, I got a feeding tool I have for my reef aqarium thats like a long skinny turkey baster and pulled some of the fluid out of the cylinder and put it on a plate, lo and behold there was coolant in it.

SO HERE WE GO HEAD GASKET REPLACEMENT YAY.

While I am at it I will likely replace the timing chain, any other suggestions? Would anyone like me to try to record most of it?
 

SHO_Off420

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Ok so thus far here is my parts list for replacements. Figure ill do the timing chains, tensioners, and followers, but I imagine the sprockets are fine. Also replacing the water pumpp and all seals or gaskets that I can, I also have a new serpentine belt on there at the bottom.
Still looking into whether I should swap the VVT solenoid or anything else while I'm in there.67be569d917c042b2226d8216e28dc27
 

Johnbigdog

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I would look at the head gasket kit and intake kit. Looks like you doubled up but the head gasket kit doesn't call out sho. 3.5L n/a may be a lot different gasket wise. I don't see the h.p. fuel pump gaskets. That intake kit is EXPENSIVE! Shoot i think i paid 10 bucks for mine?!

Your right there to replace the vcts phasers and solenoids. You may want to check to see if your timing set is a single roller chain or the multi link and make sure your chain and pump are compatible. Im not sure if the old vcts that are roller chain are compatible with the new multilink chain so be carefull.

Crank bolt I recall is one time use, but there are other threads with parts lists for water pump failure that you can copy prettcareful.

T-stat, pcv valve, engine mounts and roll restrictors?

I would pull the head and see what root cause is before getting a lot of parts. In the unlikely chance you find more damage.

The folling thread has the parts I used when my water pump failed on my 16.

https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/water-pump-and-timing-chain.140196/#post-1523669
 

SHO_Off420

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Thanks, problem is ill have to work at a remote location so I am trying to compile any parts I might need before I go towing the car up there to work on it, thanks alot I'll look at those. I can find any differences in the gaskets they are just metal/silicone it appears they are the same and that one was listed under the SHO drop down so I guess I could try to call ford and ask but when I tried to order gaskets from them the guy said they used the same ones on all the 3.5 blocks and he was amazed they didn't have any in stock.
I was treally trying to avoid doubling the cost of the timing set but if you really think i should replace everything I guess ill look at ome of the other kits
What intake kit?? The gasket set is all the gaskets and o rings from the head up, everywhere else it is 250-300 but the same part number is only 100 at RA
To check if I have multi roller or single link I suppose ill have to call ford snd give them VIN?
 

Johnbigdog

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If you didn't pull your valve cover, remove the oil fill cap and use an injection mirror.

I dont know about the cross compatibility of the na/eb engines. The timing cover kit has the crankn seal it looks like and the gasket set for the intake. I was mistaken and though the kit without the silicone was a lot less. Its not.

Wsho has a picture of the multi link vs roller of the original engine.

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...o-your-sho-today.130526/page-214#post-1546275
 

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