LotusDriver
SHO Member
I finally got around to completing the upgrade to the factory sound system by getting rid of the factory 6X9 "subs". My goal was to add a bit of bottom end without comprimising trunk space what-so-ever. I also wanted to do this in such a way that if I wanted to, I could easily return this all back to stock. Needless to say this was a challenge, but it all worked.
First I removed, the rear seat bottom, side bosters, all trim on sides and up to drivers front kick panel, all trunk linings, and the rear deck cover panel.
I purchase two Kenwood KFC-XW800F speakers. I bought these mainly because they are shallow, and should still fit with the trunk top cover in place. I already had a Rockford Fosgate P4004 amp, and PAC line output converter that also provides amp turn on power output.
I did not want to cut the rear deck shelf to fit the 8" speakers. I have the sunshade back there, which would have made things very difficult. My plan is to build my own adapters to mount the 8" subs to the 6X9 holes while still getting a good seal from the front of the woofer to the back. In doing a lot of online research I learn that 8" subs while fire throw the 6X9 opening very nicely as long as the speaker can extend fully without bottoming out on the opening. Using 5/8 inch partical board, I cut out a square to fit, and then cut out the 6X9 opening.
I cut two more boards and then cut the 8" opening from those. I glued the two boards together so I had 6X9 opening on top, and 8" round opening on bottom. A good size bead of silicone sealed the 6X9 board to the bottom of the deck. Subs were then installed from bottom up onto the new 8" opening.
I cut an additional board to sit between the subs on the bottom of the deck. This is what I used to mount the amp to. The amp was mounted AFTER i replaced the top trunk shelf cover that covers the subs. This is not a great picture, but this is with the trunk pieces all back together and the amp hanging nicely in the center.
I installed my Line Output Converter to the rear speaker outputs on the amplifier. I did NOT use the subwoofer outputs because I wanted complete control of frequency ranges. Had I used the sub output, I would be limited to the frequency range of the factory subs. Here is LOC installed.
I ran 8 gauge power feed directly through firewall and to a **** fuse holder at the battery. 8 gauge ground wire was connected to a factory ground stud at the rear of the vehicle behind the driver side rear seat. I sealed a bunch of the deck openings with a metal/foam tape I bought at home depot. This was to seperate rear air from front air as best as I could. You will notice some of the tape in the photos.
Everything is hooked up and works properly. Opening the trunk now looks virtually the same as before with the exception of the amp, which takes up no trunk space. The sound is leaps and bounds above where it was with the 6X9s. I can now FEEL bass! I still have some work to do dialing in the amp gains with a DMM, and setting the frequency levels, but right off the bat I am very pleased with the outcome!
Let me know if you have any questions or comments.
First I removed, the rear seat bottom, side bosters, all trim on sides and up to drivers front kick panel, all trunk linings, and the rear deck cover panel.
I purchase two Kenwood KFC-XW800F speakers. I bought these mainly because they are shallow, and should still fit with the trunk top cover in place. I already had a Rockford Fosgate P4004 amp, and PAC line output converter that also provides amp turn on power output.
I did not want to cut the rear deck shelf to fit the 8" speakers. I have the sunshade back there, which would have made things very difficult. My plan is to build my own adapters to mount the 8" subs to the 6X9 holes while still getting a good seal from the front of the woofer to the back. In doing a lot of online research I learn that 8" subs while fire throw the 6X9 opening very nicely as long as the speaker can extend fully without bottoming out on the opening. Using 5/8 inch partical board, I cut out a square to fit, and then cut out the 6X9 opening.
I cut two more boards and then cut the 8" opening from those. I glued the two boards together so I had 6X9 opening on top, and 8" round opening on bottom. A good size bead of silicone sealed the 6X9 board to the bottom of the deck. Subs were then installed from bottom up onto the new 8" opening.
I cut an additional board to sit between the subs on the bottom of the deck. This is what I used to mount the amp to. The amp was mounted AFTER i replaced the top trunk shelf cover that covers the subs. This is not a great picture, but this is with the trunk pieces all back together and the amp hanging nicely in the center.
I installed my Line Output Converter to the rear speaker outputs on the amplifier. I did NOT use the subwoofer outputs because I wanted complete control of frequency ranges. Had I used the sub output, I would be limited to the frequency range of the factory subs. Here is LOC installed.
I ran 8 gauge power feed directly through firewall and to a **** fuse holder at the battery. 8 gauge ground wire was connected to a factory ground stud at the rear of the vehicle behind the driver side rear seat. I sealed a bunch of the deck openings with a metal/foam tape I bought at home depot. This was to seperate rear air from front air as best as I could. You will notice some of the tape in the photos.
Everything is hooked up and works properly. Opening the trunk now looks virtually the same as before with the exception of the amp, which takes up no trunk space. The sound is leaps and bounds above where it was with the 6X9s. I can now FEEL bass! I still have some work to do dialing in the amp gains with a DMM, and setting the frequency levels, but right off the bat I am very pleased with the outcome!
Let me know if you have any questions or comments.
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I have always like the car audio upgrades and have done a couple of installs. I think I may try something like this in my gen 2 SHO.
