Subframe Clunk?

[McSho]

I have searched the forum and found some very valuable answers, although I have not found the "exact" situation Im having. When Im driving either just getting in the car or in stop and go driving I get a clunk at take-off but after it clunks one time then I can drive straight, turn take curvers make full donuts with no clunk, my first assumption was CV Shaft, but when I got under the car the boot was in tact and no slack in the shaft, after reading the forums I think subframe bushings, or maybe another component but Im not sure how to tell, I had my transmission done 3 months ago shouldn't they have at least mentioned something while doing the work? Any other suggestions or ideas how I can diagnose the problem would be greatly appreciated.

 

[BlackonBlack89]

it sounds like bad motor mounts too me

is it an ATX or MTX?? if you just had the tranny rebuilt i am guessing it is an auto. i know in a MTX you can check the motor mounts by popping the hood, get in the car and put in gear and give it a little gas. if the engine moves significultly(you will notice it)then u have bad mount(s). i guess you can do this in ATX??

 

[wood_e]

Strut rod bushing cups might be too corroded. weld them in place.

 

[SHOdownTN]

Gonna guess from where you live, subframe bushings.

I just changed mine and upgraded to aluminum subframe bushings. Wouldn't hurt to just go ahead and upgrade for the peace of mind.

Both of my rear bushings were wore out and the metal part was rusted out. I don't live in the rust belt according to ford so I didn't have the luck of the recall.

It could also but the strut rod bushings or or the cups. Moog makes a kit to fix the problem or you can weld them in place.


Do you feel the pop kinda under your feet or sound as if that is the location?

 

[McSho]

it sounds like bad motor mounts too me

is it an ATX or MTX?? if you just had the tranny rebuilt i am guessing it is an auto. i know in a MTX you can check the motor mounts by popping the hood, get in the car and put in gear and give it a little gas. if the engine moves significultly(you will notice it)then u have bad mount(s). i guess you can do this in ATX??

Bingo.. Thank you BlackonBlack89 its exactly what is wrong with my car.... I think.. take into consideration I was doing this myself but I'll ask for your guys' opinions. I got in the car popped the hood and got in the drivers seat put the car in gear (drive) and held the brake and gave it a little gas, when doing so the front left of the motor more than the right (the side left of SHO lettering) lifted about 2 inches in the air. Reading the SHOPP motor mount walk through he says you can tell by a polished spot to the right of the SHO lettering.. Im assuming this is from driving it with bad motor mounts for a significant amount of time and the intake rubbing on the hood pad? I couldn't for the life of me figure out any other way there would be a polished spot on the intake.

My next question is, 3 months ago I had my trans done like I mentioned before, when doing so he replaced the rear mount... Im assuming the front is bad, would he be responsible for at least mentioning to me that the front was bad? I mean 3 months and I do not beat on this car it should have shown some wear.

Im having trouble with this guy, he didn't torque down the lugs on the front left tire after doing my trans and the tire nearly wobbled off and broke 3 of the studs, I took it in raising **** and he replaced the studs and lugs and torqued it down to spec but last week I went and had 2 front tires put on and I had to forfeit my warranty because the holes were oblonged and could not be balanced correctly, Im planning on making him repair/replace but I don't know where to start, I mean can I be a dick and make him pay up for an entire wheel/tire package since you can't acquire a slicer OEM anymore? why should I settle for used after he F'd it up? I have a 3 year unlimited mile warranty on the trans, parts, and labor.. guess I don't know how much I should beable to take him for.. any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Gonna guess from where you live, subframe bushings.

I just changed mine and upgraded to aluminum subframe bushings. Wouldn't hurt to just go ahead and upgrade for the peace of mind.

Both of my rear bushings were wore out and the metal part was rusted out. I don't live in the rust belt according to ford so I didn't have the luck of the recall.

It could also but the strut rod bushings or or the cups. Moog makes a kit to fix the problem or you can weld them in place.


Do you feel the pop kinda under your feet or sound as if that is the location?

Subframe bushings again was my first quess considering were I live like you said, I got under there and took a lot of time checking them out, moving the car, hanging with my head under the car while it was moving etc, and I guess my gut is telling me its not the SFBs, but.. I plan on upgrading to aluminums anyway in the near future.

the "popping" noise is coming from pretty much under the dash on the passenger side.

 

[BlackonBlack89]

My next question is, 3 months ago I had my trans done like I mentioned before, when doing so he replaced the rear mount... Im assuming the front is bad, would he be responsible for at least mentioning to me that the front was bad? I mean 3 months and I do not beat on this car it should have shown some wear.

The front is the one that usaully fails. sometimes the mounts just go bad and ATX MM look different so it might be harder to inspect/look broken. if he replaced the rear one it should be fine, but if you want to check that mount too just put into reverse and look for movemeant. i recommend you go with a reinforced mount for the front; it most likely will never break again

 

[SeanMc]

You can just have the car in park, pop the hood, stand in front of it and then rock it back and forth with your knees. If the motor moves back and forth, the mounts would be bad.