Step 2: Driving/Tuning.

[SHOspazz92]

Ok, so the car probably has 1-1.5 hours of idle time on it. It stays cool, it doesn't leak and idles great. Obviously before I drive I'm going to need to plug some numbers in to drive it. Where to start?

So far the only thing that has been changed is:

Injector PW - (Multiplied the stock PW numbers by .6)
Injector High and Low slope (This will change)
MAF Curve for the VMP MAF.

What's next as far as tuning to get this car running good under load? My wideband will be in by the weekend. I'm honestly looking to have this car fully driveable in 2 weeks. This goes for Driveability and WOT. I won't expect the tune to be perfect by then, but good enough to safely take a crack at it at WOT.

-Sam

 

[SHOtime2511]

I'd wait to get the wideband in before taking it out.

 

[SHOspazz92]

I'd wait to get the wideband in before taking it out.

Stop talking sensible. Need MOAR 5,000 RPM clutch drops in reverse.

-Sam

 

[boat]

That's sig worthy right there.

Stop talking sensible. Need MOAR 5,000 RPM clutch drops in reverse.

-Sam

 

[Michelle]

I'd wait for your wideband, although I am sure that will be torture in a way. I learned quite a bit by watching it while tuning and I would be too nervous to play around without being confident in my air/fuel ratio.

Glad to see you're making so much progress on the car. Boost and white - what a great combination!

 

[Toolman]

Input some conservative timing and righ fuel settings and then watch your boost gauge, you will be fine for light driving. Hundreds of thousands of miles were put on SHOSHOP tuned S/C SHO's, with agressive timing and nothing done to the fueling except modifying the WOT fuel multiplier.

 

[yamahaSHO]

Ok, so the car probably has 1-1.5 hours of idle time on it. It stays cool, it doesn't leak and idles great. Obviously before I drive I'm going to need to plug some numbers in to drive it. Where to start?

So far the only thing that has been changed is:

Injector PW - (Multiplied the stock PW numbers by .6) <--Injector Offset vs Battery Voltage??
Injector High and Low slope (This will change)
MAF Curve for the VMP MAF.

What's next as far as tuning to get this car running good under load? My wideband will be in by the weekend. I'm honestly looking to have this car fully driveable in 2 weeks. This goes for Driveability and WOT. I won't expect the tune to be perfect by then, but good enough to safely take a crack at it at WOT.

-Sam

Be sure to change your oil much earlier than you would due to the excessive idle. If you have BE and EA, you can tune your injectors for CL driving right now. This will allow you to drive the car, however, you'll need to wait for a WBO2 before boosting.

Ideally, you'll want to set your high slope to what the injector is rated at, and the low slope at +%15. From there, you'll work on your injector offset until the slopes you have are very close. After that, you'll move on dialing in the slopes and breakpoint a little closer. This is all providing your MAF curve is a good start, but you'll revisit the MAF curve to tighten things up as MAF curves aren't completely perfect.

From our conversation on FB:

LAMBSE = What your computer is commanding to reach target AFR's in your map. If at idle you see it commanding 17:1, that means its so rich that it has to command a higher value to reach that 14.64:1 target.

KAMRF = These are your long term fuel trims. Eventually you'll see the LAMBSE settle down and start seeing trims here. I shoot for +/- 3%, but +/-5% is acceptable. If you're see -.95, the trim is pulling 5% of the fuel. If you see 1.05, it is adding 5% more fuel.

 

[SHOspazz92]

Be sure to change your oil much earlier than you would due to the excessive idle. If you have BE and EA, you can tune your injectors for CL driving right now. This will allow you to drive the car, however, you'll need to wait for a WBO2 before boosting.

Ideally, you'll want to set your high slope to what the injector is rated at, and the low slope at +%15. From there, you'll work on your injector offset until the slopes you have are very close. After that, you'll move on dialing in the slopes and breakpoint a little closer. This is all providing your MAF curve is a good start, but you'll revisit the MAF curve to tighten things up as MAF curves aren't completely perfect.

From our conversation on FB:

LAMBSE = What your computer is commanding to reach target AFR's in your map. If at idle you see it commanding 17:1, that means its so rich that it has to command a higher value to reach that 14.64:1 target.

KAMRF = These are your long term fuel trims. Eventually you'll see the LAMBSE settle down and start seeing trims here. I shoot for +/- 3%, but +/-5% is acceptable. If you're see -.95, the trim is pulling 5% of the fuel. If you see 1.05, it is adding 5% more fuel.

I do not have EA, Is this 100% something I should want to invest in to take a lot of the guess work out?

I get my PLX Wideband back on Thursday and will have that installed on hopefully on friday, along a driver seat =) From everything I have read regarding the SHOshop injectors, it seems that there rating (47lb) is conservative. This is why I have the high slope set to about 50 or so. Thanks for the input. I really am looking foward to tuning this thing....I am trying my hardest to do it myself, with some much appreciated input and guidance.

-Sam

 

[yamahaSHO]

Yeah, you'll want it... EA will be very useful in scaling the injectors and MAF. Getting the Injector Offset (Latency) will be just, if not more important than the slopes themselves. Injectors react differently at different voltages. To be able to keep up with voltage fluctuations, the Injector Offset will define how these react. It is an adder (in ms) to the commanded PW. IE: without this dialed in commanded PW of 5ms will not be the same at 12v and 12.5v.

 

[Sho Amo]

That has an aftermarket fpr right? Fwiw, I never used wot multiplier. Although im no expert, I just felt it was the wrong way to go about it. I think tuning was one of the more interesting parts of owning a boosted sho.

 

[SHOspazz92]

Yes, I have Josh's FPR.

-Sam

 

[Toolman]

Yes, I have Josh's FPR.

-Sam

Does Josh know about this?

Can't imagine he will be thrilled next time he goes out to start his car.

 

[Sho Amo]

hahaha

Im guessing you have the 'basic' setup. This does make tuning quite a bit easier.

 

[trainguy1989]

Subscribed. Good info here. My SC, I think has a stock intake with the horns still installed. Also has a stock FPR. Must be the original ShoShop SC kit installed on the car. Need to look into things for Mike and Kurt. Been busy with work and the tornado we had go through town last weekend.
Tim, we need to set up a date. I miss you.

 

[yamahaSHO]

Subscribed. Good info here. My SC, I think has a stock intake with the horns still installed. Also has a stock FPR. Must be the original ShoShop SC kit installed on the car. Need to look into things for Mike and Kurt. Been busy with work and the tornado we had go through town last weekend.
Tim, we need to set up a date. I miss you.

If you end up needing your car tuned, you don't live too far from here.

 

[boat]

So you are the one who ended up with that beautiful red/black S/C 92 from the NW? Hence the sale of 2 really nice SHO's. Nice. Would love to see it in person, that car was ridiculously clean and well done.

Subscribed. Good info here. My SC, I think has a stock intake with the horns still installed. Also has a stock FPR. Must be the original ShoShop SC kit installed on the car. Need to look into things for Mike and Kurt. Been busy with work and the tornado we had go through town last weekend.
Tim, we need to set up a date. I miss you.

 

[ZooYoost]

Hmm I never messed with mine with wot fuel multiplier, might have to screw with that alil.

 

[yamahaSHO]

Ideally, you shouldn't need WOTFM. If you are tuned correctly, you'll hit your target AFR's. With that said, if you want to induce "lean-spool", you can use WOTFM to reduce fuel in the spool range additional to whatever your OL fuel table is written for.