So I have a 95 SHO MTX and I'm having a stalling issue when I hit the fuel pedal. After it stalls it will crank but will not start unless I hold the fuel pedal down but then it sputters and idles high. I'm at a loss I'm not sure if it's a TPS or CPS. Fuel is good and MAF is clean and working. Has anyone had this issue or know how difficult it is to replace the CPS.
Starts but stalls when hitting fuel
- Thread starter Dmaan87
- Start date
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I have pulled the plugs and established it is not an injector or fuel related problem. I have a video of the check engine light blinking to give me a code but I'm unsure what the code actually is. I'm not sure if the tach moves when cranking I will check tomorrow.
Off Road SHO
Moderator
Yes it can. Do you have way to measure voltage or resistance, Like a Volt Ohm Meter? If so, you can check to see if the TPS is working or not. The MAF meter also mi
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=10153599174183652&id=662418651
That's a link to the video. I have 5 volts to the power wire at the TPS and was checking the signal today and noticed it was running smooth so I think I have an intermittent TPS issue.
That's a link to the video. I have 5 volts to the power wire at the TPS and was checking the signal today and noticed it was running smooth so I think I have an intermittent TPS issue.
Ok so I have the codes correct I think. 118, 122, and 126. Does anyone know where I should go from here. I'm not overly concerned with the coolant issue but I've already check the wiring to the TPS, and I have no idea where the MAP is on this thing. Now the car won't run at all which makes me think Crank sensor even though it isn't an active code.
From my experience and faulty MAF shouldn't keep the car from running. Could I possibly have a bad crank sensor as well.This is a MAF-controlled vehicle, the MAF sensor is mounted to the top of a metallic round body (with a mesh screen on the inside) connected to the airbox.
View attachment 2291View attachment 2292
Easy way to tell if the MAF is functional is to pull the MAF connector with the vehicle running. If it is running the same as before, then the MAF is faulty/dirty. If it runs worse than before, the MAF is likely ok. As far as the codes, you can look them up here:
http://web.archive.org/web/20090429123516/http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/code3.htm
118 (O,M) ECT sensor is/was high or open - ECT
122 (O,M) TP low (possibly grounded or open circuit) - TPS
126 (O,R,M) MAP or BARO sensor out of range - ">MAP
http://web.archive.org/web/20090429123516/http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/code3.htm
118 (O,M) ECT sensor is/was high or open - ECT
122 (O,M) TP low (possibly grounded or open circuit) - TPS
126 (O,R,M) MAP or BARO sensor out of range - ">MAP
The video link tells me it is not available...
My code list is different from what SHOdded posted above:
118 = ECT circuit open - this is most likely a connector issue but could also be in the harness
122 = TP sensor below minimum voltage - likely a connector or harness open
126 = CID circuit failure - this is the cam sensor circuit
at the cam sensor connector, make sure that R/LG has 12V when the key is on, and make sure that O/R is grounded. Those are the two outside pins.
at the TP sensor, the GY/R needs to be ground - that is the same ground for the ECT, so the fact that both of those are complaining of open circuit type issues suggests you do not have this ground.
Let us know what you find with those tests.
My code list is different from what SHOdded posted above:
118 = ECT circuit open - this is most likely a connector issue but could also be in the harness
122 = TP sensor below minimum voltage - likely a connector or harness open
126 = CID circuit failure - this is the cam sensor circuit
at the cam sensor connector, make sure that R/LG has 12V when the key is on, and make sure that O/R is grounded. Those are the two outside pins.
at the TP sensor, the GY/R needs to be ground - that is the same ground for the ECT, so the fact that both of those are complaining of open circuit type issues suggests you do not have this ground.
Let us know what you find with those tests.
well, it might need a crank sensor too, but with the cam sensor code that you have it is possible that the engine would not start. so, you need to do the trouble-shooting described above and let us know what you find.
Ok so update on the car.
I finally think I found the issue. I was about to start disassembly to replace the timing belt and crank, CID, and a bunch of other things but before hand I figured I would look for more vacuum leaks while it would idle. In the process I found a spark plug wire that was shorting out on the valve cover and causing my grounds to backfeed power. Long story short I replaced the wires and no more issues. Oh I also had a dead spot in the TPS but nothing major. Thank you everyone for your help.
I finally think I found the issue. I was about to start disassembly to replace the timing belt and crank, CID, and a bunch of other things but before hand I figured I would look for more vacuum leaks while it would idle. In the process I found a spark plug wire that was shorting out on the valve cover and causing my grounds to backfeed power. Long story short I replaced the wires and no more issues. Oh I also had a dead spot in the TPS but nothing major. Thank you everyone for your help.
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