Starting Problems...Please help

[93ATX SHO OFF]

I've had some problems starting my car. It started doing this yesterday. When I turn the key, I get one click and no start. Then after a few tries it starts, but sluggishly. The battery isn't dead, cause everything works. It just wont start. Anyone know what is going on? Could it be the starter?

 

[SHO SPD]

probably the sylenoid

 

[naval-avi8or]

Just cause your other items work doesn't mean your batt's good. Take it out and have it load tested. You could have one cell completly dead and still beable to operate the other electrical items, but a starter is almost as dead short takes alot of juice.

 

[ericwick19]

The next time you attempt to start the vehicle, have someone tap on the starter with a hammer while cranking the car. If this starts the vehicle up, the problem is a dead spot in the starter motor itself. I dont know if they are rebuildable, but this same problem happened to my camaro last year and all i did was replace it with a new starter from an independent local parts shop for 60 bucks, as for the clicking, that is the solenoid doing what it is supposed to do.

Eric

 

[93nighthawk]

I think ericwick19 is right, dead spot on the starter. Even if it is the solinoid it does not matter, they are all one peice now. But before I go in and dish out $200 for a new one, I would go in and have the battery checked first. Most auto parts do that for free. If the battery is good, definitely starter. I recommend getting one from the Ford Parts Network or a Ford Dealership. I have had problems with aftermarket rebuilds that use the poor quality bendix's (the gear part that pushes the fly wheel,) and poor rebuilds

Went through 5 of them from O'Riely's (AC Delco rebuild, SHO you how well chevy builds stuff )before I said screw it and went to Ford. That was two years ago (knock on wood) and I have not had a problem with it sense. Now the rest of the car is a different story.

Eric

 

[sdpatt]

Until you check the voltage or specific gravity of the electrolyte in the battery, you cannot assume that your battery is not the cause. You should also check the terminals at the battery, starter soleniod and starter for tightness and cleanliness from corrosion. This sounds more like a lack of current to the starter because of the term, "sluggishly" having been applied to the cases when the starter does turn the engine.

 

[Duff]

You've already said you hear a click when you turn the key. That click is the solenoid engaging.
Under normal operation, a motor will have a near-zero resistance--hence the large current demand when starting your car. However, when a motor fails, it will function like an open circuit/near-infinite resistance. When this is the case, instead of measuring a VD of zero across the starter's terminals you will see the entire battery voltage. To find out if this is the case, bump the starter with the headlights on. If the headlights don't dim at all, then you've got a bad starter. If they dim, it would be worth your while to have the battery/charging system checked before doing anything with the starter.

If the starter is bad, I would strongly recommend buying a new one--I was able to have an ACDelco starter installed in mine last summer for under $100, and that includes a warranty that is good at any ACDelco service center.

If your car is a stick, keep in mind that you can start the car by popping the clutch--just don't do it any more than you absolutely have to, and make sure you have the ignition on when you do.

If this isn't clear enough, let me know. I worked for an automotive shop in high school that specialized in electrical repairs, and I'm currently a junior working on an EE degree--I'll be glad to help as much as I can.

Dave

 

[clintonk]

If you're concerned about poor quality of rebuilt starters/alternators, I don't blame you. I recommend finding a local shop to rebuild your parts. That way, you're getting your own stuff back and you can talk to the shop owner about the quality of parts. The shop I use charges about $150 for a SHO alternator, $80 for the old-style (Ford) SHO starter, and $130 for a newer (Mitsubishi) SHO starter. Both my SHOs have alternators rebuilt there, and they are doing fine.

Of course, AutoZone will sell you a rebuilt unit for about the same price with a lifetime warranty. It's likely got inferior parts in it, but if you don't mind replacing things more often, go for it.

Clinton Knight
'90 White 182K
'95 Green 51K

 

[stevetatro]

I agree with the idea of having your own starter rebuilt. There seem to be discrepencies with the number of "teeth" on the SHO starters (especially aftermarket ones).

You know you have one that fits your car just fine. Why risk getting rid of that one and having somebody else's rebuilt junk thrown onto your SHO?

Some places will get you the starter back the next day, fully rebuilt. If you can live without the services of your SHO for another day, this is the route you should take.

Check your local yellow pages and you'll find quite a few places that rebuild starters, alternators, etc.

Good luck!