**Starting problem**

[95yamahasho]

(95 ATX w/110,000 drives great, full power) Sometimes it happens when i turn the car off and try to start it again (3 times before today)(Car will crank and almost start) today it happened at 40 mph just cut out on me. if i wait 30 mins. it fires right up again as if it never happened and drives great. (Car will crank and almost start) NO CODES!!!!! with the advice of a mechanic i cleaned the battery terminals and went to reconnect them and smoke came from the alternater area. What the **** is going on with this car.
Thanks for any help.
Paul

 

[SHO#7]

As you posted on the other thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by 95yamahasho
Same issue here. (95 ATX w/110,000 drives great, full power) Sometimes it happens when i turn the car off and try to start it again (3 times before today)(Car will crank and almost start) today it happened at 40 mph. if i wait 30 mins. it fires right up again as if it never happened and drives great. (Car will crank and almost start) NO CODES!!!!!
Thanks for any help.
Paul

Next time it will not start, cycle the key 4 or 5 times. Listen for the fuel pump. If you hear a fuel pump whine, and it still will not start, I would rule the pump out. I had a weak pump on my 93 that would give me a hard start at times. If I cycled the key, it would fire right up. I never had to wait any more than 30 seconds though. Not 30 minutes like you.

Check your water pump for seepage onto the crank sensor. My guess is that you are due for a 60K with a replacement of the crankshaft sensor.

Mike

 

[95yamahasho]

Disregard the smoking alternator. I checked the water pump, all electrical connections and grounds. Nothing. It seems to happen in the heat, cool mornings and nights, no problem.

 

[SHO#7]

Check the codes next time it does not start. I know you checked them, but do it again. Maybe something will show up.

Mike

 

[masho95]

The car stopped running while driving 40mph? Any bucking or hesitation?
Hard starting like that is common to the CMP (Camshaft Position Sensor) especially if it just died on you while driving. I've had issues like that with a bad sensor... and no codes.

 

[djcannon]

The car stopped running while driving 40mph? Any bucking or hesitation?
Hard starting like that is common to the CMP (Camshaft Position Sensor) especially if it just died on you while driving. I've had issues like that with a bad sensor... and no codes.

I agree on the Cam PS...it's cheap, about $35. May as well give it a try while trouble shooting.

But you say you have trouble when the weather is hot. I also used to have problems in hot weather, though mine never completely stalled on me. I replaced the coil and never had those problems again. Not sure if it was the coil or just luck.

 

[SHO#7]

IMHO you should see the Tach drop out or read erratic with a cam sensor. I would lean more on the crank sensor. The cam sensor could make it run bad, but I personally have never seen one not allow a car to run at all.

Check all grounds. Is you intake painted? Check behind the DIS and ensure there is no corrosion. Take a little electric cleaner to the connections. Be sure to do the crank sensor connection. You may even want to clean the MAF. ( use maf cleaner on that )

Again, I think you may get a code if you try again when it does not start. With it stalling, you should at least get a 542. So I say check the codes again and ensure you are reading them correctly.

Mike

 

[95yamahasho]

The only code i get is 542 and i assume that's from the stall condition. This is driving me crazy. When I drove in the rain yesterday the car drove great and didn't miss a beat, I stopped and cycled the key 3 times and it started all 3 times. Then i drove a little longer and cycled the key 2 times and it wouldn't start, waited approx 5 mins. and it started back up and drove perfect. Today, drove my son to work, stopped in a parking spot and shut the car off and it wouldn't start again for 15 mins, Then, driving home from the parking lot the car died while driving and it took 30 mins. at the side of the road to start again. This is rediculous very inconsistant. The only thing that stands out in my head is that when i start the car (if it starts properly) i hear the buzzing of the fuel pump filling the lines, if it don't restart i don't hear that buzzing and the tach does move when trying to start. It's been to a mechanic who charged me $350 he replaced a wire going to the fuse panel from the black box with big fuses under the hood.

 

[ohfosho]

those no starting conditions point right at the CPS or CID sensors... it is odd that you are not geting a code, but it is possible...have heard of that before.

the CID is cheaper and much easier to do, if you have the extra money, that is a good place to start, and if it isnt the problem, that is good preventative maintenance anyways...

the CPS change out, well thats a lil deeper into the beast.

 

[SHO_Driver]

The only thing that stands out in my head is that when i start the car (if it starts properly) i hear the buzzing of the fuel pump filling the lines, if it don't restart i don't hear that buzzing and the tach does move when trying to start.

A bit confusing, do you mean that when the car fails to start you do not hear the fuel pump buzzing? If so sounds like the fuel pump is not getting power. Could be a bad relay or the pump itself.

 

[93rev2sev]

I'd have to say Crank Position Sensor. On my first SHO, it had that same exact symptoms. One time it took too long to restart so I thought... "I'd better get a tow truck out here". Well when the towtruck got there the driver suggested trying to start it again. I snapped at him in my my most sarcastic teeenage voice "I tried to start it like a dozen times!" After it started right up for him, I said..."time to learn some stuff about SHOs - and humility".

I have come to think that there are 2 ways for the CPS to die. One is by coolant dripping on it from the WP, the other is just age. The "just age" one feels like a raw deal because you might as well do the timing belt and water pump while you are in there $$$>$

 

[95yamahasho]

My mechanic called me this afternoon, somewhat stumped, and said "the DIS module" he was getting one today. If it works i'll pick it up tomorrow. Sometimes it starts right up, I can usually emulate the problem by cycling the key 3-4 times and then it becomes a no start condition.

 

[95yamahasho]

Not DIS, He tried the wiring harness under the plastic radiator cover (CCRM? not sure) after troubleshooting some more. Turned out to be the FUEL PUMP. After the $350 for a wire replacement running from under the hood to the fuse panel that was supposedly shot, i'm poor as a field mouse. Anyone in Massachusetts, near Scituate want to help replace my fuel pump for a wonderful dinner and drinks? Please help!!
Paul

 

[93rev2sev]

He charged you 300 for replaceing a wire that did not solve the problem and you paid?

A mechanics' ineptitude should not cost YOU money...It should cost HIM time. just my $.02