Starting problem....starter?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

HoustonSHO

New Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2002
Messages
18
Reaction score
0
Location
Houston, TX
I have had my SHO for about 8-9 months now and love it, except my tranny problem...Ever since I bought it, it has had problems starting. Most of the time I have to hit the starter 3 times to get it started, but every once in a while it starts the first time, but no matter what, I have to hold the ignition for about 3 seconds to get it started. I'm thinking it's a bad starter, but I want to make sure before I go out and spend the money for another.

Thanks in advance.
 

Bizzy

SHO Member
Joined
May 1, 2001
Messages
13,222
Reaction score
1,462
Ok...I'm not sure if I'm understanding what you're saying. When you hit the starter, does the car crank? Or does the starter make that gosh aweful noise?

If the car is cranking I'd say you have a problem other than the starter...like fuel or possibly fire. But this is def. a guess on my part.

<small>[ June 08, 2002, 01:33 AM: Message edited by: Bizzy ]</small>
 

HoustonSHO

New Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2002
Messages
18
Reaction score
0
Location
Houston, TX
Yes, it does turn over and makes a normal noise. Now that you mention that it may be a fuel problem, I have had problems with it hesitating when pressing the gas while in second gear (ATX). Does this sound like dirty fuel injectors?
 

projectSHO89

SHOless In St L
Joined
Nov 7, 2001
Messages
6,116
Reaction score
160
Location
St. Louis, MO
Sounds more like it isn't getting fuel at an adequate volume.

A fuel filter is cheap and not to hard to replace. Other than that, a puel pressure tester is in order to test the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, or return line check valve.

Try turning the key to on for several seconds before hitting the starter. The fuel pump should cycle for about 2 seconds, pressurizing the fuel system. Repeat once or twice to see if that makes a difference.

You might also have the infamous oil in the spark plug wells. That kills the spark and caused hard starting and hesitation.

BTW, the starter's only job is to turn the engine over. If it cranks normally without any grinding or hesitation, your starter circuit is fine.

You said a tranny problem?

Steve
89

<small>[ June 08, 2002, 09:43 AM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>
 

HoustonSHO

New Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2002
Messages
18
Reaction score
0
Location
Houston, TX
"Try turning the key to on for several seconds before hitting the starter. The fuel pump should cycle for about 2 seconds, pressurizing the fuel system. Repeat once or twice to see if that makes a difference."

Yeah, that's one of the first things I did when I found it had starting problems. I doesn't seem to help a bit. If it is by chance the oil in the wells, how would I find out for sure, and go about cleaning it out?

BTW, one other thing I remembered as I was on my way home from work today, when I am taking a turn, then try to accelerate while still in the turn, it is even more hesitant...would this be a symptom of O2 sensors?

As for the tranny...it's an ATX with the original one in there....need I say more? :rolleyes:

<small>[ June 08, 2002, 09:58 AM: Message edited by: HoustonSHO ]</small>
 

SHOnuff93

SHO Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2001
Messages
713
Reaction score
0
Location
Dublin, Ca
before you wast emoney on a starter (yours is obviously still working) try to do some maintenance on that beast. try new plugs, wires, fuel filter, valve cover gasket set to solve your oil in well problem and then for good measure throw on a set of new o2 sensors. if you have the cash after all those goodies try a timing belt and valve adjustment, if you still got money change the crankshaft pos. sensor and water pump.

You will be surprised at what a difference maintenance will make in performance and longevity.
 

HoustonSHO

New Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2002
Messages
18
Reaction score
0
Location
Houston, TX
I know I need to do many many many many (ok, I think you get the point) things maintenance wise to my perty SHO, but money is real tight at the moment and that's why I have come here (to get opinions from people who have delt with this first hand). I think i will go get the plugs and fuel filter today, heck, maybe here in a couple of minutes :) . I sure appreciate all the help from everyone and I'm sure I'll stick around this forum for a while.

BTW, I know this has been asked in the past, but I must ask again just in case...does anyone know where to get the clear headlight lenses for the Gen II SHO? I've seen some regular Tauruses here around Houston that have them...are they interchageable?
 

HoustonSHO

New Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2002
Messages
18
Reaction score
0
Location
Houston, TX
This may be a stupid question, but, when you say oil in the spark plug wells, does that mean the well that I see when I take the wires off the plugs, or under the plugs themselves?
 

sdpatt

Sr. SHO Engr.
Joined
Dec 6, 2000
Messages
9,670
Reaction score
383
Location
Dallas, TX
The oil leaks past the seal at the valve cover mating surface to the head near the top of the hole that the spark plugs are in. The holes are about 4" deep and the oil can fill the wells enough to overflow the top. To see if this is a problem, you can easily remove the front three plug boots to check for oil in the plug wells. They should be dry and clean. If there is oil in there, DO NOT remove the spark plugs. There is also grit in these wells that sneaks past the plug boots. You do not want the oil and grit inside the cylinders. Use suction, pressure, towels or some other means to clean the oil and grit out of the wells before you touch the plugs. And only use the Motorcraft AGSP32PP plugs (cheapest source is usually FordPartsNetwork.com at $3.99 each).

That said, I don't think oil in the plug wells causes you to have to crank the engine for 3 seconds before it fires up. When you are cranking the engine, how long bfore the CHECK ENGINE light goes out? Does it go out in less than a half second or does it stay on the entire time you are cranking? It should go out as soon as te EEC learns where the number one cylinder is during the first engine revolution. The cylinder identification sensor (CID) is responsible for this job. If the CE light is staying on for a couple seconds, the CID sensor is not working properly.

The long cranking time condition is usually associated with a low fuel system pressure. Several things have already been discussed on this topic. The last thing would be to check the fuel system pressure and replace the fuel pump if it is weak.
 

HoustonSHO

New Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2002
Messages
18
Reaction score
0
Location
Houston, TX
Wow, nicely put Scott and thanks for all the help everyone....going to order those plugs and work on that as soon as possible. As for the fuel, since I need to replace the filter anyway, I will get that done tomorrow. I'll be sure to post my results as I get them.

Thanks again.
 
Back
Top