Starter won't shut off

[95SHOdude]

After a bunch of fixes now I have an overly agressive starter. It's brand new (autozone rebuild #3) and I just put it in. After a short drive at a stop the car just started freaking out. The starter was trying to engage while the engine was running. I quickly shut it off. Then whenever I turned the key just to "On" it fired up and the starter didn't disengage. Iended up cutting the inginition wire to the starter and push started it. It ran just fine all the way home. My question is did I get a bad starter? Or did something else like a relay fail closed. My CCRM did burn the fuel pump trace and I was able to fix that. I was thinking of just putting a momentary push switch to the ignition wire I cut and start it that way. I'd hide it somewhere and make it really difficult for someone to start it. Is the ignition wire a ground or 12 pos? Thanks.

 

[BlackOnBlackATX]

well there should be both a ground and positive down there. i would recommend making sure the pushbutton switch can handle the amps the starter needs. otherwise thats not a bad idea for a theft-prevention switch. let us know how it goes!

 

[projectSHO89]

My guess is the last starter did the same thing, but you didn't bother reporting such in your last thread. I didn't think your posts added up at the time.

Sounds like you need a new ignition switch, the one you have has a defective starter circuit.

My posts in your previous thread describes the starter circuit. Refer ro it.

Steve

 

[LaTechSHO]

projectSHO89:
My guess is the last starter did the same thing, but you didn't bother reporting such in your last thread. I didn't think your posts added up at the time.

Sounds like you need a new ignition switch, the one you have has a defective starter circuit.

My posts in your previous thread describes the starter circuit. Refer ro it.

Steve

absolutely correct... (as always)

by cutting the starter wire off of the ignition switch and seeing the starter FINALLY not engage you have diagnosed your own problem. change out your ignition switch.. they are cheap

on a side note the bushbutton switch wouldn't have to be rated for the amps a starter draws because it would be hooked up to the signal wire on the solenoid not the starter power wire


Louis

 

[BlackOnBlackATX]

LaTechSHO:

on a side note the bushbutton switch wouldn't have to be rated for the amps a starter draws because it would be hooked up to the signal wire on the solenoid not the starter power wire


Louis

true true, im surprised i havent killed myself yet

 

[skippie]

This happened to me. It was just a faulty starter, took it back, and now im on my 4th and everything is working good.

 

[95SHOdude]

Thanks all. I had to work late today so I wasn't able to pick up the supplies I need. I'll post how it goes. I was talking to a mechanic friend that had a simular problem with his Ford truck and he did the push button thing in his ashtray. Since I don't smoke I'm thinking of rigging up my lighter to hide it. Probably put an in line switch too to keep someone from acidently hitting it while I'm driving.

 

[95SHOdude]

All done. I put in a "racing" type toggle switch that looks like it's cover is made from carbon fiber (auto zone $10). I mounted next to the opening below the CD (or compartment whatever you have) on the left side of the cassette holder. Looks good and works great. It's powered from an ignition source and routes directly into the starter. Fires right up.

Next question. I didn't have a small enough feeler guage for the CPS. I had to use my flat style and bend it around. How critical is the gap and what happens if it's to small or large? I can pick up some .03" wire from work to use but I'm wondering if it's that important or am I close enough.

 

[BlackOnBlackATX]

95SHOdude:
How critical is the gap and what happens if it's to small or large?

the gap is very critical and in general i believe the car just wont start if you have it gapped wrong. i could be wrong on the last part though. perhaps some of the others can recommend another method to get around using a feeler gauge.

 

[projectSHO89]

Actually, the gap is NOT particularly important. As long as the vanes of the timing gear never make physical contact with the sensor, you will never know the difference that a variation of gap might theoretically make.

The CPS is a Hall Effect Device. It operates as a switch that is opened and closed as the magnetic flux lines are interrupted or restored. The relative postition of the interrupting element (vanes) in relation to the adjacent sensor elements is not overly critical.

The choice of .030" as a gap represents an attempt to center the vanes so that mechanical contact cannot be made.

Steve

 

[95SHOdude]

Thanks. I'm having DIS or cam senor symtoms. I need to run the codes. I get the misfiring (more like studdering) Tach jumps up and down a grand or so, then she clears up and on comes the CE light. I repaced the crank sensor with the water pump and about a year or two ago I changed the cam sensor. Never touched the DIS. I'll make sure the connections are good and it's grounded well first. I really appricate all the info and advice everyone has given.