Stalling-last try

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Zimney1

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Need help once again. Just had the codes read at Autozone. Came up with a 212-IDM circuit failure and 215-Coil 1 primary circuit failure. Question, Is there any way to test the coil before replacing it. Will this stall the motor?Could I have bad plug wires? The car has been experiencing stalling problems for roughly 3 months. While attemting to fix the problem, the following has been done. New DIS(have the old one and swapped them when stalled and doesn't make a difference). CPS replaced along w/water pump and timing belt. Cam sensor replaced which seemed to solve the rough starting and no tach that developed. However, the next day my wife drove to work and back fine(45 mi one way), then she stopped at a friends a few blocks away from home and it stalled on the way home. Started up again, stalled, and then made it home. Seems to only stall either at low speeds or stop. Sometimes the engine is hot, other times it has stalled a few blocks from home. Could I have a computer problem? What component sends the codes? Every time I take it in to read the codes, its always something different.
 

sdpatt

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Sounds like it could be a bad ground to the DIS module. Check the flat ground strap connected to the top bolt on the passenger side, rear intake manifold bracket. Also check the two 12mm bolts that hold the intake crossover tube to the front and rear intake plenums. The chances of getting those two faults after replacing the parts you mentioned says that the wiring to or from the DIS is not intact.
 

Zimney1

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Thanks, I'll check that. Could oil in the plug wells cause this? In checking some things yesterday, I noticed some oil in the 2 driver side rear plug wells. Now that I know, I'll be replacing that gasket.
 

SHOemup

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This is a kinda out there idea but the last time you took your battary out, did you re-learn the computer how to idle properly? I think the re-learn themselves eventually but mine had symptoms like yours when I changed my battary and didn't reteach it.
 

Blast7

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You could also try cleaning your Idle Air Contrl Valve. If that doesn't work then I woul also look into loose connections at the MAF connector or buy a new one for $15 and see how that works. At one time the dirty IAC and bad MAF connector are what were causing my car to die. It was mostly stalling when I would depress the clutch and come to a stop.
 

sdpatt

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Have you cleared the codes lately? Do this by removing the jumper while the CE light is flashing during the EEC test.

Any secondary ignition (plugs and wires) faults are not detected by the EEC and will not set any codes.

A failed coil (one of three) will cause two cylinders not to have any spark. You can imagine how this would make the engine run - very poorly, but it won't **** the engine instantly.

Oil in the plug wells will cause a misfire that is not detectible by the EEC. It will not shut the engine down like you have described. You can clean the oil out and reapply dielectric grease to the plug boot to hold over until you can get the plug well seals replaced.

The idle program is reset only during the first 70 seconds after the initial start after the battery has been disconnected or the keep-alive memory plug disconnected. You only get one chance to set it.

The idle air control (IAC) valve may need cleaning, but it won't stall the engine. It may create a low, high or unsteady idle spped if sticking or failing.

I'm not exactly sure what the 212 code can be caused by or the conditions it creates. The SPOUT circuit fault it describes is the spark output circuit. If there is no spark output, obviously the engine cannot run. Clear the codes and check them again after the next occurrence of the problem. If the 212 reappears, more infor and inspections in the SPOUT circuit are needed.

Scott
 

Blast7

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sdpatt:

The idle air control (IAC) valve may need cleaning, but it won't stall the engine. It may create a low, high or unsteady idle spped if sticking or failing.

Scott
That is a very good point. In that case, a bad MAF connector was my problem. :D
 

Zimney1

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Thanks for all the input. Can I get that MAF connector from Autozone, etc., or is that a dealer only part?
 

sdpatt

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If that MAF or MAF connector were the problem, you should be getting a CHECK ENGINE light and the code for MAF voltage out of range.

Scott
 
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