Stalling and bouncing idle problem

[Blast7]

Sometimes when coming to a stop I will depress the clutch and coast and the engine will start to die and bounce back but it has stalled doing this as well. After finally stopping the RPM's will fall very low and the low oil pressure light will flash for a second before the RPM's jump back up and usually after a few cycles the idle will level out. However, sometimes it does die out and stall. These two occurences are sporadic and it will even do this with the clutch not depressed. I have run the KOEO and KOER codes but came up with all 11's. The injectors are fine, too. I'm not sure if this is related but I do have a hard starting problem. I hope you guys can help.

 

[Machspeed]

Done a 60k? Sounds kinda like your cps.

 

[rendyx]

That sounds like what happened when my IAB got screwed up. However, you have not played with the IAB (that you mentioned). Or have you lately?

 

[SHO SWIFT]

I have an ATX but I have at the same problem . . . when I come to a stop light my revs will drop and bounce just as you described. . .

My problem is my valve covers are leaking and I have oil in my spark plug wells. . .I'd check but soonafter this phenomena started happening to me my check engine light started to go on. . .

Hope evrything works out well. .

 

[Blast7]

No I haven't done the 60K but I don't feel that this is the problem. I did have the CPS problem with my other car so I do know the symptoms. My valve cover and plug well seals are all new. I did clean my IAB out about a year ago but haven't done it since. Maybe I should try and do it again to see if it changes anything. I suppose it can't hurt.

 

[sdpatt]

It is not the CPS.

You should first try to reset the idle speed program (search on that) and if that doesn't resolve the condition, the idle air control (IAC) valve very likely has a malfunctioning position feedback signal and will need to be replaced. Cleaning the flow passages will not affect the electrical portion which would be the source of the oscillating idle.

 

[Blast7]

sdpatt, I have tried resetting the idle speed program the proper way, per your instructions, with no change. I looked up the IAC on www.autozone.com but it says not available. Should I be looking into getting a used one? Maybe I'll have to do a little more searching on the web as well.

 

[shojuan]

Blast7:
sdpatt, I have tried resetting the idle speed program the proper way, per your instructions, with no change. I looked up the IAC on www.autozone.com but it says not available. Should I be looking into getting a used one? Maybe I'll have to do a little more searching on the web as well.

Also known as an idle air bypass. Try looking for different year SHOs. You're looking for a Wells TV200.

 

[shojuan]

Cleaning the IAB and then doing a full idle reset (use the sdpatt method) is the cheapest first step you can take. Use B12 to clean the IAB and move the plunger back and forth. A couple years back this used to do wonders for my hot idle and stalling problems. This year the same symptoms returned and cleaning didn't help. I replaced the IAB with a new Wells TV200. Still no help. The problem turned out to be the fuel pump. I replaced that for $87 and have been problem free ever since. Sometimes there are a several completely seperate systems that can cause the same symptoms.

 

[FatherOfTwins]

When I first bought my second SHO, it had a similar rough idle/stalling problem. I still had no luck correcting the problem even after performing long neglected tune-up and maintenance repairs, (plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter, O2 sensors, etc...) that is until I opened up the MAF sensor and carefully cleaned the 2 wires in the sensor with a Q-tip dipped in cleaner (windex). Seems as though the lack of air filter changes over the years led to the accumulation of black grime on the sensor wires, which threw the sensor's reading off to the point that rough idle and stalling occured. Since then, no more rough idle or stalling, and that was 2 years ago.

 

[shojuan]

You really don't want to touch those MAF hot wire filaments with anything. They are too delicate and prone to easy damage. Best thing is to just spray them with a good intake cleaner until the grime comes off then let them dry naturally. ****, I just spray mine with nasty strong brake cleaner, but you didn't hear that from me! oh_my Just an intake or electrical contract cleaner is what you want to use with no physical contact with anything solid (even *soft* solids like cotton swabs!)

FatherOfTwins, you would have noticed by now if you had damaged the filaments with the cotton swabs so don't sweat it. But next time I encourage you to try a more gentle approach. The general consensus is that you need to be *real* careful with those fine hot wire filaments.