Spark Plug/Wires Help

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Spin

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I've searched the forum already and have got most of my questions answered but I still have one concern that I'm not quite sure about. To get to the plugs in the back, 1, 2, 3, I think are the ones in the back, I have to remove the intake manifold, right? If so, is it just the bolts on top of it and is there anything I should watch for while taking it off or putting it back on? thanks :)
 

SHOfun 93

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Not necessary. You can get at them with an extension and a socket. If you have an atx, it would be helpful to remove the EGR stuff on the rear of the intake. It makes getting at the rears a bit easier.
 

SHOTerror

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Remove the intake, it will **** your back and take prolly longer if you don't. You can clean the heads and clean the intake while you have it off so the thing is running great when it goes back together. Its quite easy to remove it, it took me 45 minutes my first time and book time is an hour on the just removing intake. Its all the bolts on top of the intake(10) + the 4 support bolts (12mm) plus the 2 bolts on the EGR if you have it, and what ever else yo need to remove. I removed my throttle body as well because i didn't want to have to dettach/re-attach the cables.
 

SHO--ripper

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The passenger rear support bolt is larger than the rest. I think it's a 15mm. Also, you will have to remove 5-7 vac/coolant hoses. Once you start removing the intake you will have one more to get to. Good luck.
 

Slo-Sho

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May as well clean the intake and then change the plugs, unless you're a contortionist or like awkward positions.
 

jthomas68

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Anyone who can`t change all the plugs in 20 minutes or less with the intake on has some problems.I have absolutely no problems,i don`t even use a swivel on the socket.I can`t fathom why people remove the intake only so change the plugs.The wires are routed underneath though,so to properly change and route them,the intake has to come off,or at least be loosened for the front fitment.
 

bigpappy

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With any endeavor, be it mechanical, electrical or what have you, there is something called a learning curve. The more one performs a set task, the better/faster one becomes at performing said task. You have my permission to not feel ********. If you're not in the habit of turning a wrench, changing the spark plugs can be a bit daunting. You can't see them, and with the intake still in place, you've got to practically climb on your engine to get to the ones on the firewall side.
I strongly suggest investing in a Chilton's manual or a Ford shop manual. The Chilton's details a step by step removal of the intake should you decide to do so. If not, a sparkplug socket, with a six inch extension, and the ratchet should be quite sufficient. If you have oil in your plug wells, don't freak out. It seems to be fairly common. Use either a turkey baster or the squeeze handle from an empty windex bottle to remove it. (Stick the little tube in the well and squirt the oil into the windex bottle.) The range for the plugs, if memory serves is .042" to .046". I try to gap them to .042" as the gaps widen with use. If I were going to be racing, I'd use .044".

Needless to say, it would be tedious for me to give you step by step instructions on how to turn a wrench. Just be sure that you tag each plug wire, and reattach the plug wire to the correct plug. And, of course, use the Motorcraft plugs. O'Reilly's has them for less than 4 bucks apiece.

Good luck.
 

svtman

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On my 95 ATX, I changed the plugs and wires and only removed the vacuum canister at the rear of the intake. The plugs are easy like jthomas said, but the plug wires do not require removing anything if you are willing to put up with routing them around underneath which takes a fair amount of time and patience. I did not want to remove my intake yet so I did not do it that way, but if I was to change plug wires again I would remove and clean the intake. On my next stint of days off I am going to remove my intake to be cleaned as well as check my valve lash on my 150K km SHO.
 

DJ SHO

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I pulled my intake in probably less than 15 minutes and I've never done it on my own car before. An ATX might take a few nore minutes with all the EGR crap. I agree it's much easier to do everything with the intake off. Routing the wires with intake on?...I wouldn't recommend it, unless you like to swear a lot and throw tools because it's taking you so long. Kinda reminds me of this guy who tried to change his rear motor mount when all he had to do was drop the rear part of the subframe down (like his friend told him to do in the first place). Instead he and his friend struggled with it for hours trying to get the damn mount out. Jeremy, you know who I'm talking about right? :cool:
 

Spin

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Thanks for all of the info. I got the Chilton's book and going to order the parts tomorrow. Although I got two more questions. First is about the range for the plugs as bigpappy said below.

bigpappy:
The range for the plugs, if memory serves is .042" to .046". I try to gap them to .042" as the gaps widen with use. If I were going to be racing, I'd use .044".
I'm not quite sure what the range is or how to meausre the range, i'd appreciate any info on that. Also in the Chilton's manual under replacing the intake manifold it says to tighten the bolts to 11 - 17 ft. lbs, how would I know when I'm at 11 - 17 ft. lbs? If the answer to these questions seem simple, my apologies, just not sure about all this car stuff. I want to learn and not just guess then hope it works :)

thanks again
 

svtman

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To set the proper gap on a spark plug, you will need a gapping tool which usually has a provision to adjust the electrode of the plug as well as a variety of measuring devices to check the proper gap. As far as torquing the bolts down - you will need to purchase a torque wrench to tighten the bolts down to the required specifications.
 

bigpappy

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Spark plug gap width - as you look at the spark plug, obviously, there are two ends. One end will screw into the spark plug well - be very sure you don't cross thread it. On the plugs in front, you should be able to screw these in by hand at a minimum. The ones in the back, you can still screw them in by hand, you'll just have to contort yourself a bit more.
As you hold the plug, you'll notice that there is a little shaft that is bent over at about 90 degrees. This is where the gap is measured. If you buy your plugs at O'Reilly's, ask them to gap them for you and watch how they do it. To measure the gap yourself, you'll have to buy or borrow a filler gauge. Any autoparts store will have these on the counter at ridiculous mark-ups, selling them for a buck. They sell them this cheap because they know that everyone loses these and will have to buy about five more before they die. If you have the circular type of gauge, you'll notice that the gauge gets fatter as you rotate it. (Or thinner depending on which way you rotate it) Slide in the gauge at the thin end, spin it around until it stops wanting to slide and assess the gap. If the gap is too large, you'll want to take your thumb and press down on the bent arm. Don't worry, unless your green with a temper, you're not likely to press it down too far the first time. If the gap is too small, use the aforementioned gauge and gently press up against the bent arm. Then reassess.

This forum is full of guys that have over-torqued or under-torqued and had bad results. The ones that didn't use a torque wrench and had no hassles won't need to post here for help. You can a)recall how much effort it took for you to remove the old plug; try to use the same effort to reinstall. Or you can get a torque wrench. They come in many different types-- I'd get the sales man to show you how it works. Each wrench has a range, and they may need to be recalibrated from time to time. Myself, if it's something that MUST (as opposed to should) have a torque wrench, I consider it a complex procedure and let the trained professionals have a go at it.
I recommend you get a torque wrench;at your novice level, you may as well learn how to do things the right way.

In the chiltons manual, the pictures are pretty good. Be advised that there are some errors in it. I suppose if you do a search for Chilton's and errors you'll find them.

Good luck.
 

jthomas68

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In the Chiltons manual,the plug wire configuration is incorrectly listed.I personally wouldn`t have suggested that manual as it covers very little on the SHO engine,and does have some wrong information.When you`re ready for the wire install,come here to get the correct order.
 

HopefulSHO

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The main reason I'd pull your intake - even if you're only changing spark plugs - is to make sure you are getting out any oil & debris that *may* be present in thoes rear plug wells. Plug well seal leakage is a VERY common problem w/ the SHO engine. I'm sure it would not be an easy task getting that out w/ the intake on. (Correct me if I'm wrong!)
Taking the intake off is not near as hard as it looks, and perhaps you will enjoy the benefits of a throttle body & IAC valve coolant bypass while you're in there.

<small>[ July 07, 2003, 11:36 AM: Message edited by: HopefulSHO ]</small>
 

Spin

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thanks to everyone for the additional info. hopefully one day i'll be able to give the advice instead of receive it :) i'll let u guys know how it turns out, thanks again :D
 

Spin

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Update: Just letting everyone know that helped me out that i got everything installed and the car runs 5x's better. thanks for the input and the information.
 

Spin

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Bluto:
Did you remove the intake?
this is a really really really late reply, but i guess better late than never, so yes i did remove the intake. wasn't that difficult :)
 
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