Zpak
Es Aich Oh!
More spark=more pre ignition=no bueno
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
You say it performs better. Do you have dyno results showing brand new Iridium plugs from multiple brands vs. Pulstar Iridium plugs resulting in increased hp/lb-ft? Some kind of emissions analysis that shows more complete burn? Seat of the pants feel? Long-term use that shows they last longer? What is your scientific proof that shows better performance? There are so many ways to judge performance, what are you calling performance? Longevity, power, cleaner emissions, lighter wallet?I didn't check this thread for a response to my post for three days because I knew it would ruffle some feathers and figured someone would've bashed it without good reasoning. I was correct in that assumption and didn't realize firsthand experience was meaningless here. Point taken. I figure you'd guys would come up with something like that to try and disprove anything that is outside the expected norm or typical/ expected response. And yes, I'm aware of what heat range is in terms of sparkplugs and the part number I shared is what Pulstar recommends for my engine and what I use without any issue whatsoever- just better performance. Also, zero pre-ignition events to report. I'd say more engineering went into these plugs than any other as they were developed at the Sandia National Labs here in the US and use technology no other company has- not just a fancy ground electrode design that doesn't amount to anything.
Carry on with whatever you're doing, irrespective of anything else that may be better out there. They're most certainly not a scam and better performing than OEM. At first, they had reliability issues, but not after switching over to Iridium. Take something as simple as a bigger spark. How can you honestly think a smaller, weaker spark is going to be better and offer superior performance? That is the opposite of what would be true from a scientific or common sense perspective (if you believe in that sort of thing). Also, a sparkplug with an internal capacitor is going to outperform one without it. It's just that simple.
I didn't check this thread for a response to my post for three days because I knew it would ruffle some feathers and figured nobody would agree and someone would've bashed it without good reasoning. I was correct in that assumption and didn't realize firsthand experience was meaningless here. Point taken. I figure you'd guys would come up with something like that to try and disprove anything that is outside the expected norm or typical/ expected response. And yes, I'm aware of what heat range is in terms of sparkplugs and the part number I shared is what Pulstar recommends for my engine and what I use without any issue whatsoever- just better performance. Also, zero pre-ignition events to report. I'd say more engineering went into these plugs than any other as they were developed at the Sandia National Labs here in the US and use technology no other company has- not just a fancy ground electrode design on a traditional type plug that doesn't amount to anything.
Carry on with whatever you're doing, irrespective of anything else that may be better out there. They're most certainly not a scam and better performing than OEM. At first, they had reliability issues, but not after switching over to iridium. Take something as simple as a bigger spark. How can you honestly think a smaller, weaker spark is going to be better and offer superior performance? That is the opposite of what would be true from a scientific or common sense perspective. Also, a sparkplug with an internal capacitor is going to outperform one without it. It's just that simple.
I guarantee there is no increase in power output, particularly any that will "make the tires chirp" whereas they hadn't with a different sparkplug...this is fanciful at best and probably just a reflection of a different driving technique.Yes to a better seat of the pants feel, more complete combustion, more power. Also, tires chirp easier now than before with traction control on while flooring it on a green light. That's something that's pretty concrete for me and the types of improvements I care most about -although I am not sure how to quantify that. More mpg? Not for me at least. I believe the ECU compensates for this and if the engine or current setup is capable of providing more fuel/air (or better spark in this instance) which this does, than it allows for more power which can actually reduce mpg or keep it at current levels. Lighter wallet? Yes. Just like buying any other replacement sparkplug would give you a lighter wallet. Price is very reasonable for the slight boost in performance but plugs still need to be gapped just like everything else. I don't dyno as I'm just a regular guy with a daily driver who appreciates a bit of added performance here and there wherever possible for not a lot of money. You cannot compare a plug with an internal capacitor to a plug without one. That wouldn't be a fair comparison. I don't know if you saw the video I posted but it's pretty clear what's going on in the combustion chamber with these plugs. The capacitors store and release a much higher voltage in milliseconds- even when using the same ignition coils as before. I've experienced zero pre-ignition issues using them. Long-term reliability? We'll see. I am still giddy with all the small improvements in performance I've made to the car in the past month and will report back if they don't meet expectation. Iridium is iridium and wears slower than some other metals that are used in sparkplugs, so I would expect them to last as long as any other iridium would. I've also combined them with the Sultans of Spark coils which are also better performing than stock at the lower to midrange rpms, but I replaced the plugs first still using the original coils and there still was an improvement there before the other performance coils were installed. I shyed away from Accel or MSD because they seemed to have spotty reliability. But as with anything else, lots of times you only hear from the people with a bad experience using a product so it can
Here you can see the testing and research results:
https://pulstar.com/how-it-works/#tabs-1
There are no plugs on the market that will make your tires "chirp" whereas they didn't before. That change is due to an imperceptible modification of your driving style. Sorry. No need to try plugs when the current plugs have been proven and vetted. And I'd venture to say there is always a chance they can be worse, especially if the manufacturing process is shoddy and they fall apart...which does happen.I definitely noticed a difference and want others to at least try them as well. The "chirp" is a pretty good barometer of additional performance for me. It just wasn't happening before. I think you'll be happily surprised if you can go into it with an open mind. If not, what's the big deal? Who cares. They're just plugs, do it already. You'll have a new set of iridium performance plugs and won't need to change them out for awhile. There's a 0% chance they're going to be any worse than anything else you'd put in there unless they're defective. I really wish someone would just dyno them and put this silly discussion to rest.
The very first problem with those dyno pages, they all say Drive By Wire: No. With the exception of the 1966, I am pretty sure every one of those vehicles is drive-by-wire. Next, there are no details. Were they stock, brand new factory spec plugs vs. Pulstar Iridium or were they used plugs? Just putting a new set of plugs in could give you the 0-8hp they are seeing. Combine that with things like copper vs. iridium and you will see changes like that. Third, where is the independent testing?Yes to a better seat of the pants feel, more complete combustion, more power. Also, tires chirp easier now than before with traction control on while flooring it on a green light. That's something that's pretty concrete for me and the types of improvements I care most about -although I am not sure how to quantify that. More mpg? Not for me at least. I believe the ECU compensates for this and if the engine or current setup is capable of providing more fuel/air (or better spark in this instance) which this does, than it allows for more power which can actually reduce mpg or keep it at current levels. Lighter wallet? Yes. Just like buying any other replacement sparkplug would give you a lighter wallet. Price is very reasonable for the slight boost in performance but plugs still need to be gapped just like everything else. I don't dyno as I'm just a regular guy with a daily driver who appreciates a bit of added performance here and there wherever possible for not a lot of money. You cannot compare a plug with an internal capacitor to a plug without one. That wouldn't be a fair comparison. I don't know if you saw the video I posted but it's pretty clear what's going on in the combustion chamber with these plugs. The capacitors store and release a much higher voltage in milliseconds- even when using the same ignition coils as before. I've experienced zero pre-ignition issues using them. Long-term reliability? We'll see. I am still giddy with all the small improvements in performance I've made to the car in the past month and will report back if they don't meet expectation. Iridium is iridium and wears slower than some other metals that are used in sparkplugs, so I would expect them to last as long as any other iridium would. I've also combined them with the Sultans of Spark coils which are also better performing than stock at the lower to midrange rpms, but I replaced the plugs first still using the original coils and there still was an improvement there before the other performance coils were installed. I shyed away from Accel or MSD because they seemed to have spotty reliability. But as with anything else, lots of times you only hear from the people with a bad experience.
Here you can see the testing and research results:
https://pulstar.com/how-it-works/#tabs-1
How many manufactures spec them for use in their vehicles? Answer = zero. If these were really the bees knees you'd think Porsche, Ferrari, BMW, etc. would put them in their vehicles. They don't because they are snake oil plugs.I didn't check this thread for a response to my post for three days because I knew it would ruffle some feathers and figured nobody would agree and someone would've bashed it without good reasoning. I was correct in that assumption and didn't realize firsthand experience was meaningless here. Point taken. I figure you'd guys would come up with something like that to try and disprove anything that is outside the expected norm or typical/ expected response. And yes, I'm aware of what heat range is in terms of sparkplugs and the part number I shared is what Pulstar recommends for my engine and what I use without any issue whatsoever- just better performance. Also, zero pre-ignition events to report. I'd say more engineering went into these plugs than any other as they were developed at the Sandia National Labs here in the US and use technology no other company has- not just a fancy ground electrode design on a traditional type plug that doesn't amount to anything.
Carry on with whatever you're doing, irrespective of anything else that may be better out there. They're most certainly not a scam and better performing than OEM. At first, they had reliability issues, but not after switching over to iridium. Take something as simple as a bigger spark. How can you honestly think a smaller, weaker spark is going to be better and offer superior performance? That is the opposite of what would be true from a scientific or common sense perspective. Also, a sparkplug with an internal capacitor is going to outperform one without it. It's just that simple.
I definitely noticed a difference and want others to at least try them as well. The "chirp" is a pretty good barometer of additional performance for me. It just wasn't happening before. I think you'll be happily surprised if you can go into it with an open mind. If not, what's the big deal? Who cares. They're just plugs, do it already. You'll have a new set of iridium performance plugs and won't need to change them out for awhile. There's a 0% chance they're going to be any worse than anything else you'd put in there unless they're defective. I really wish someone would just dyno them and put this silly discussion to rest.
Exactly, my first thought was this dude must work for Pulstar LOLHow many manufactures spec them for use in their vehicles? Answer = zero. If these were really the bees knees you'd think Porsche, Ferrari, BMW, etc. would put them in their vehicles. They don't because they are snake oil plugs.
But it's your money, so feel free to waste it. I'll stick with what Ford engineers recommend. In the meantime, you might want to toughen up a bit. You sound like you are selling these.
Thanks for the update - if they were good I would be interested in hearing about it. I would put in the Ford colder range if you are running a tune.Hey everyone, I just wanted to follow-up as I said I would if anything out of the ordinary happened as the resident guinea pig. No, I don't work for Pulstar and my tires are brand new Continental Xtreme contact at the factory recommended 42 psi. I have an important update about the Pulstars some may be happy to hear. I care more about helping people out than saving face. A set of six plugs only lasted about 2 months before I experienced random misfires at high RPM. I wasn't sure if it was the coils or plugs acting goofy, so I pulled the Sultans of Spark coils and put the OEM Motorcraft coils back in. Same misfire issues. Then I removed the coils, plugs and installed new Motorcraft SP-580-X iridiums gapped at .032. Everything is more or less ok now, except after keeping more careful mileage records, I found there's a 2mpg penalty for using the Motorcraft iridiums in combined city/hwy driving compared to the Pulstars which kind of sucks.
To summarize, I feel the iridium Pulstars are a superior plug offering better performance, a more complete burn and improved fuel economy, but not worth it unless you like wrenching around. I am about 50/50 on this. While I like wrenching around constantly to tweak things, I also don't like being forced to- only when I decide to add performance upgrades of my choosing that are not completely necessary to get me from point A to B in my daily commuter. I reached out to Pulstar after taking resistance measurements of each plug. I asked them to tell me what the normal range of resistance should be for my plugs so I can get a better sense of which ones may be on their way out. These varied wildly, from 1.67kΩ to 3.11kΩ which is a significant difference of 47% between them. The rest measure around 2.5kΩ which I think is the average that they are supposed to be -although Pulstar never confirmed this or got back to me. Anyway, I gave them the chance to try and make it right but they never responded- bad move on their part that costs them. So yeah, maybe they're good if you want maximum performance at the drags and change plugs frequently, but obviously the Motorcraft iridiums are going to be exponentially more reliable even if there is a slight hit to performance.
I am guessing that 42psi is the number you see on the side of your tire. This is a maximum inflation pressure at the load given on the tire usually something like "####lbs(####kg) @ ##psi(##kpa) cold". This is given because the tire can fit many applications from small cars to trucks. You should always follow what is printed on the sticker inside your driver's door (on the door or jamb). Here is an excerpt from the manual:my tires are brand new Continental Xtreme contact at the factory recommended 42 psi.
Yeah all the testing I saw was on regular gasoline - naturally aspirated - nothing turbo charged.Better performance with worse reliability. They still look perfect and their heat range was spot on with a nice light tan color on the electrodes. Even their "iridium" nature can't save them from premature failure. My guess is their internal capacitors go haywire after being pummeled at high rpms on turbocharged engines like ours that eat plugs for breakfast. Who wants to change plugs every 2k and "guess" which ones have gone bad? Not me (unless Pulstar told me the normal resistance range to expect from these plugs and supplied me with free replacements. At least that way I could stay on top of it). I figure I can't do all their job for them, although (oddly) I may still be willing to futz around with them because I liked them so much while they lasted. But without their cooperation and support, there is nothing- only an empty void that I will not fill by purchasing replacements at my own expense.
No, this is unrelated (or that it really matters at this point) but it's 42 psi cold as indicated on the doorjam not on the tire itself and these tires have a AA traction rating.I am guessing that 42psi is the number you see on the side of your tire. This is a maximum inflation pressure at the load given on the tire usually something like "####lbs(####kg) @ ##psi(##kpa) cold". This is given because the tire can fit many applications from small cars to trucks. You should always follow what is printed on the sticker inside your driver's door (on the door or jamb). Here is an excerpt from the manual:
Maximum Inflation Pressure is the tire manufacturer’s maximum
permissible pressure or the pressure at which the maximum load can be
carried by the tire. This pressure is normally higher than the
manufacturer’s recommended cold inflation pressure, which can be found
on the Safety Compliance Certification Label (affixed to either the door
hinge pillar, door-latch post, or the door edge that meets the door-latch
post, next to the driver’s seating position), or Tire Label which is located
on the B-Pillar or the edge of the driver’s door. The cold inflation
pressure should never be set lower than the recommended pressure on
the Safety Compliance Certification Label or Tire Label.
I believe my 2015 says 35psi F/35psi R. If you run them at 42psi, you will probably get better mpg, stiffer ride, increased center tire wear, decreased traction, etc. The only time I would stray from that pressure is if you change tire size. There are calculators that you can use to calculate new pressures based on new sizes. Some people will drop the pressure when at the drag strip also.