spark plug popped out?

[shobote]

Here's an idea;(and no I am not stoned) get one of those coat hangers from the dry cleaners that has the cardboard tube and remove it; put some double sticky (double sided) tape, (like carpet tape or golf grip tape) and wrap it around one end; the hole in the tube fits around the remaining plug stem that is still in there and the pieces of electrode will then stick to the tape.
I once used one of those cardboard tubes to replace the rear plugs; you can bend it a little, they fit perfectly in the tube and you can get the threads started that way.

 

[Huntervf]

Is the base still threaded into the head?

I had something very similar happen during a 60k many years ago, the hex portion of the plug broke free from the ceramic center and we pulled the electrode out of the head, leaving the threaded portion still turned into the head. We removed it--very carefully--with an easy out attached to a drill.

Now, being that you're working on the rear bank, not sure if you'd be able to get the correct angle in there, but you'll definitely need to take that intake off if you find the threaded base is still in the head.

Either way, good luck!

 

[TT SHO PROJECT]

You probably experienced detonation, which resulted in high cylinder pressures that popped the plug. Lucky thing, a hole in a piston is next. Dial down your boost.

im Pretty sure thats not the case. i think its a bosch platnum plug. iv beeen running in and out of the house since last night trying diffrent things to get that plug out.. oh and i was only boostin 5 pounds that day since the roads suck thats as low as it goes. im normaly up at 9-10 psi i have had a couple platnums come apart on me before but on diffrent cars. one being my blown stang and thats where i learned there not good for boost

 

[TT SHO PROJECT]

Is the base still threaded into the head?

I had something very similar happen during a 60k many years ago, the hex portion of the plug broke free from the ceramic center and we pulled the electrode out of the head, leaving the threaded portion still turned into the head. We removed it--very carefully--with an easy out attached to a drill.

Now, being that you're working on the rear bank, not sure if you'd be able to get the correct angle in there, but you'll definitely need to take that intake off if you find the threaded base is still in the head.

Either way, good luck!

Thanks, im kinda lucky the hex part is lose iv actualy been useing a coat hanger to unthred it lil by lil but i really dont want the bits and peaces of teh center electroid gettin in the bore.. iv had luck with this before but removeing the plug and starting the engine up and the engine spits the bits and peaces out of the head but iv never done that on a 4 valve motor b4 and its got me really nervous

 

[TT SHO PROJECT]

You could try to blow it out with compressed air too, if you have it available.

my air compressor is at the shop and im not about to drive a 5 banger sho up there lol... i dont want to risk anything going wrong even more than it already has. but that is a good idea. :thankyou:

 

[TT SHO PROJECT]

Stick a piece of heater hose on the end of your vacuum.

i rigged my vac up with some vacuum line, and that didnt work plus i couldnt see what was going on. i really dont want to take my intake off. im afrade the couplers will crack and that would be very bad since im boosted. sigh. worst case i'll get the car towed and have someone else dick with it.

 

[SHOZ123]

And have them crack the couplers and not tell you?

For sure you want to be sure that that plug well is 100% cleaned out before taking the rest of the plug out. You can get new couplers. If you fear yours are bad then get new ones before the job.

 

[AREA 91]

Take off the little black canister on the back of the intake and it is much easier to get to. I use a long extension, easy as pie.

~Johnathon~

I wonder where you learned all these little tricks?

 

[shobote]

FWIW, I would avoid Bosch plugs, and being boosted, you might want to go with just a tad colder plug than stock.
It's not at all hard to do; you can remove the intake without removing the couplers or surge tanks; it all comes off as one assembly. If the couplers are deteriorating, you need new ones for sure anyway as any leak will make your car run like crap; Shosource.com has them for around $50.

 

[TT SHO PROJECT]

FWIW, I would avoid Bosch plugs, and being boosted, you might want to go with just a tad colder plug than stock.
It's not at all hard to do; you can remove the intake without removing the couplers or surge tanks; it all comes off as one assembly. If the couplers are deteriorating, you need new ones for sure anyway as any leak will make your car run like crap; Shosource.com has them for around $50.

hmmm 50 bucks doesnt sound bad really... i have 5 plugs in the car that are 2 heat ranges colder than stock and there copper core plugs gapped to .028. the 6th is Probably the one i had too much of a hard time getting too and im pretty sure the plugs that was in the car before i went boosted was bosch platnums. i know why do a tune up if your not gonna replace them all right? lol i was new to shos when i changed the plugs over i didnt know the lil tricks to get at the rear plugs . but thanks for the info :thankyou:

 

[TT SHO PROJECT]

And have them crack the couplers and not tell you?

For sure you want to be sure that that plug well is 100% cleaned out before taking the rest of the plug out. You can get new couplers. If you fear yours are bad then get new ones before the job.

Ack!!!!! i had to re-read your post.... yeah that would really suck, you have a very valid point there, i didnt think about that at all. thanks for the heads up. :thankyou:

 

[frosho]

my air compressor is at the shop and im not about to drive a 5 banger sho up there lol... i dont want to risk anything going wrong even more than it already has. but that is a good idea. :thankyou:

You have a shop vac, right? You could hook the hose up to the air outlet instead of the inlet (if your vac has that capability, I would think most do), that might give you enough air pressure to blow it out, I dunno.

If you have or can get one of those air cans for cleaning electronics that might work too.

 

[luigisho]

You go through this thread about plugs and forced induction?
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=92785&page=2

This might be a recurring problem if the quality of the plugs can't stand the boost.

 

[1995SHO9]

I wonder where you learned all these little tricks?

From the best of course.

 

[TT SHO PROJECT]

You have a shop vac, right? You could hook the hose up to the air outlet instead of the inlet (if your vac has that capability, I would think most do), that might give you enough air pressure to blow it out, I dunno.

If you have or can get one of those air cans for cleaning electronics that might work too.

i like the way you think! i mite try both. thanks for the ideas :thankyou:

 

[TT SHO PROJECT]

You go through this thread about plugs and forced induction?
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=92785&page=2

This might be a recurring problem if the quality of the plugs can't stand the boost.

i agree with you, but i think that one plug was a platnum bosch. thats why it failed. i was lazy what can i say.

 

[TT SHO PROJECT]

intake removal.

so im finaly giving in... im removeing the whole intake as one peace. sofar it really doesnt look that hard, took me 3 mins to break all the bolts free... now i just have a question, im pretty sure iv seen something on here about re-useing the gaskets.... is this posible? or are they just gonna break and not be useable??? i do have a tube of GM SEALANT and i sware by this stuff, infact its the onlything i sware by thats gm cuz i really highly doubt any parts stores around here would have the gaskets and im not about to cut my own. any tips on removeing the intake/saveing the gaskets??? im part of the turbo dodge crew and they reuse gaskets all the time by just spray painting them (even head gaskets which iv done) i also have the correct spray which is mopar head gasket spray. its basicly just clear coat paint in a can.

 

[frosho]

The only gaskets you'll be dealing with are the ones between the intake and the heads. They're metal and definitely re-usable. You may not even need your spray, but I guess it wouldn't hurt.

 

[TT SHO PROJECT]

The only gaskets you'll be dealing with are the ones between the intake and the heads. They're metal and definitely re-usable. You may not even need your spray, but I guess it wouldn't hurt.

:woo-hoo: Sweet! very good info there thanks alot man. makes me less worried about takeing it apart :thankyou: im about to go back out and finish it up... it feels like its 6* out!! brrrrrr not good weather to be wrenchin on a sho!! thats "foo sho" lol

 

[luigisho]

It's easy to take the intake off and replace it as 1 piece. There is a chance that it won't sit flush on reinstall. I would line everything up during reinstall as 1 piece back on the head, loosen the clamps on the couplers just a bit in case you need slight movement to get a proper seal, then tighten the intake then the couplers. You don't have to remove any of the runners from the couplers, just some wiggle room to seat the intake flush to the head.