OK, I've read all of the responses so far, and here's the deal:
1. Manifold does NOT need to come off to change the plugs. What makes it a LOT easier is to either remove the hood, or just remove the hood struts and bungee-cord the hood to the garage door mechanism (as I did). The rear plugs are then very easy to get to.
2. If you are changing the wires (a good idea) the manifold needs to be lifted, but that just involves removing bolts, and popping the manifold up an inch or so. NO coolant needs to be drained. I just pulled out the manifold bolts to get the manifold up a inch or so (to get the plug wire boots under it). No gasket change or anything like that.
Having done the plugs and wires once, I could do the whole thing again in under two hours. The main "tricks" are to (1) get the right plug wrench that can "grab" the plug down in the well, (2) get the hood out of the way for the rear plugs/wires, and (3) unbolt the manifold to lift it up an inch to get the plug wire ends threaded through it.