Spark Plug Crush Washer

[JRA2000TL]

So I'm dumb and wasn't thinking yesterday....I changed the plugs before I did my valve adjustment on the 89. Well, of course, as I'm trying to turn the engine with a ratchet, it gets to a point where it won't turn because of the air in the engine that cannot escape. I need to remove the plugs while I do this, but I already installed the new ones. I don't have to get new crush washers, do I?

I tried to absorb all of the oil in the plug wells with a rag (turkey baster suction did not work very well). I got the old plugs out and they were covered in oil. I put a cotton rag in the wells to try to soak it all up, but there's still a little bit in some of them. I'm guessing this won't be detrimental to anything if some gets down in the cylinders, right? It might smoke for bit on initial startup, but that's all I figure it would do.

 

[Racer X]

No need to replace the washers, but don't tighten 1/4 turn again, only like 10º, no more than 15º.

And stop being a ***** and turn harder. I've never pulled the plugs to turn an engine.

 

[SHOtimer]

I used pieces of paper towels on the end of a pick to get all the oil out.

Doug

 

[Off Road SHO]

The oil that might get down into the cylinder is not the problem, it's the grit that might be down there also.

My solution was to change out the tip of my air nozzle to a 18" long piece of brake line. It's bendable so that you can customize it for each back cylinder. After getting as much oil out of the well with rags, paper towels cut into strips, etc, I put a squirt or two of paint thinner down into each well. Use a skinny long reach screw driver to swish it around especially on the downhill side of the well where all the remaining oil collects.

I then wrap a thin shop rag around the brake line air nozzle and insert it to the bottom of the well. The resulting blast of air carries the thinned out oil up into the rag where it is absorbed. That can be repeated if neccessary. Once cleaned of oil, I then remove the rag and just use compressed air to make sure there is no grit down in the well.

Tom

 

[Vnuk1]

Best tool for absorbing oil from plug wells = Tampons, I know you have some of those around...

 

[JRA2000TL]

And stop being a cat and turn harder. I've never pulled the plugs to turn an engine.

I deserve the Darwin award....the engine is easier to turn when it's in N rather than in gear. Fail. Hopefully if any dirt/grit fell down into the cylinder, it won't mess it up. I just get paranoid when I tear into an engine like this even though I've had no issues before.

Speaking of...this brings about another couple of dumb questions.

1. When you change bearings and what not and have to turn the crank by hand, why do the instructionals say to put it in 5th gear? Why not N when the engine is easier to turn? I don't see why gears have to be engaged to do strictly engine work.

2. Some people are **** about the valve adjustment specs but the book and the 60k video says intake clearances, for example, should be .006 to .010. As long as they fall within this range, they're ok, correct? Some of mine were at .10, but that's still "in range". The .009 feeler gauge slid through but the .010 didn't. The car had no valve clatter and ran like a top (other than an occasional hiccup on hard accelerations due to the need for new non-oil soaked plugs) I have the whole "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" mentality here. Do I really need to order shims if they still fall within the range?

 

[-DVP-]

Brake clean and a blow gun. Spray them down, hold a rag over the well, blow it out.

 

[itwonder]

As ORS says, you really need to use compressed air to blow the grit out before pulling the plugs. Air in a can or even a hand pump will work better than nothing if you don't have a compressor.

 

[JRA2000TL]

As ORS says, you really need to use compressed air to blow the grit out before pulling the plugs. Air in a can or even a hand pump will work better than nothing if you don't have a compressor.

I have a compressor. I didn't have much success in absorbing the oil with a rag while the plugs were in. I just pulled them out and stuck a cotton rag down in there and used a turkey baster. Still had a little bit of oil down in there. New plugs are in, but I will use my blow gun to make sure any trash, debris, dirt, etc. is clean out of the plug wells and cam area before I put the valve covers back on.

Does anyone know the answers to my 2 questions in my previous post above?

 

[platoribs]

Haven't done valves but have had them checked and 'flipped' if within spec. I guess this presents a new wear surface to the cam.

I've read a number of threads where the OP posted their valve worksheet. Try searching some of the relevant terms and I suspect your answers will be revealed... :sun: Plat0

For example:
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=93336&highlight=valve+worksheet

 

[K-Dawg]

Speaking of...this brings about another couple of dumb questions.

1. When you change bearings and what not and have to turn the crank by hand, why do the instructionals say to put it in 5th gear? Why not N when the engine is easier to turn? I don't see why gears have to be engaged to do strictly engine work.

2. Some people are **** about the valve adjustment specs but the book and the 60k video says intake clearances, for example, should be .006 to .010. As long as they fall within this range, they're ok, correct? Some of mine were at .10, but that's still "in range". The .009 feeler gauge slid through but the .010 didn't. The car had no valve clatter and ran like a top (other than an occasional hiccup on hard accelerations due to the need for new non-oil soaked plugs) I have the whole "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" mentality here. Do I really need to order shims if they still fall within the range?

1. If I'm understanding what you are asking, putting the trans in 5th allows you to turn the engine by turning the tire.

2. If you don't have the right size shims on hand, and the clearance is in spec, leave it alone. It's a $300 car with 250k.

 

[Off Road SHO]

If your valves are within that range, you're good to go. At the low end your valves will open more and at the high end they open less, that is all.

The reason for putting the tranny in 5th gear is so that you CAN rotate the engine. It is assuming that the front of the car is raised so that you can work under it. When it is raised and the tires are just hanging there, you can rotate a tire and it will rotate the next rod bearing down into view.

Tom

 

[platoribs]

It's a $3000 car with 250k.

Fiksed! :wave:

 

[rubydist]

1. When you change bearings and what not and have to turn the crank by hand, why do the instructionals say to put it in 5th gear? Why not N when the engine is easier to turn? I don't see why gears have to be engaged to do strictly engine work.

2. Some people are **** about the valve adjustment specs but the book and the 60k video says intake clearances, for example, should be .006 to .010. As long as they fall within this range, they're ok, correct? Some of mine were at .10, but that's still "in range". The .009 feeler gauge slid through but the .010 didn't. The car had no valve clatter and ran like a top (other than an occasional hiccup on hard accelerations due to the need for new non-oil soaked plugs) I have the whole "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" mentality here. Do I really need to order shims if they still fall within the range?

1. it doesn't matter if its in gear or not to do the engine work, but if its in gear, you can put a screwdriver in the brake disk on each side and thus lock the engine from turning to torque or loosen the crank pulley bolt.

2. if the .009" goes in and the .010" does not, then the clearance is .009". I like to run my valves at the 'loose' end of the spec, then I don't have to worry about burning valves when I run it hard. now I know that burned valves are not a common issue on the SHO motor, but that's just my practice (comes from working on bug engines when in college). this is also more of an issue on the exhaust valves than the intake valves, as exhaust valves are more likely to burn.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Wow, great responses; just what I was looking for. Thanks everyone! This forum is awesome. Now I just need to get "un-lazy" and finish checking the clearances and get this thing put back together.

 

[turbo79]

About turning the engine to get the cams in the right position, when Chris K. (PitaSHO) checked and shimmed (where necessary) my valve clearances, he removed the inner fender panel on the passenger side and just turned the engine with a socket and breaker bar. Much less effort and much more precise, you only have to get the car up high enough to remove the wheel and then lower it onto a jack stand, plus you just have to stand up after a turn and look at the cam position to see if it's ready for the next valve.

The inner fender well on that side comes out easily; it appears to be part of the design of the car to allow easy access to the crank end (the front) of the engine for various maintenance tasks like valve clearance adjustments, changing the cam belt, replacing the cps, etc.

 

[itwonder]

About turning the engine to get the cams in the right position, when Chris K. (PitaSHO) checked and shimmed (where necessary) my valve clearances, he removed the inner fender panel on the passenger side and just turned the engine with a socket and breaker bar. ...The inner fender well on that side comes out easily; it appears to be part of the design of the car to allow easy access to the crank end ....

Good job! If anyone is interested, you can cut a hole into the plastic fender liner directly opposite the crank bolt. Then you can use one of those cheap ultra-long socket extensions from Harbor Freight to reach the crank bolt and turn it without removing the liner. I use the hole to check the crank bolt torque whenever it's time to rotate the tires.