something wrong

[ncsu brandon]

ok i was driving back from the store and all the sudden the engine wasn't responsive. No CE light, and when i gave it gas the tac went up but the car didn't go with it, if i put in the clutch it would go back to idle, i don't recal if i tried any different gears but it seems like maybe 4th and 3rd. so i coasted over to the center turn lane and then it stalled out or something. When i go to crank it won't turn over. Trying on and off. eventually like a minute later it cranks and off i go, no more problems. I get back and then pop the hood and it's not real smokey or anything like that...there might have been a small haze, and the odor is similar to oil burning but a little sweeter....any ideas?

 

[ncsu brandon]

ok...pulled codes and got the following out of history....I got system ok from the system when it ran (111)

157 - Mass Air Flow signal is/was low or grounded

219 - SPOUT circuit failure timing defaulted to 10 degrees - follow code 213 diagnosis

542 - Fuel pump open bad ground or always on


the 157 was most likely from another day when i was cleaning everything up long ago and forgot to hook up that sensor, but the other two are most likely from the problem....

any ideas?


i also did the cylinder balance test from sdpatt's profile, and it gave me the following

4 5 6

I'm clueless as to that meaning

<small>[ October 12, 2003, 02:45 PM: Message edited by: ncsu brandon ]</small>

 

[badger-badger-badger]

I don't know about the codes, but the sweet smell may have been coolant. (That may or may not have anything to do with your problem)

 

[ncsu brandon]

best of my abilities i'm deducing this to a ground problem....now my question is going to be...any ideas as to where i should look for such an issue?


btw...finally in three digits thumb

 

[ncsu brandon]

anything?

 

[Anthony1238]

I'm not positive but if you were smelling coolant than it could have been a leaky water pump that is shorting out you Crank Shaft Position Sensor, I've heard stories of it stalling out and not turning on untill it is dry. Just a sugestion.

 

[rangerj]

ncsu,

What Anthony says makes a lot of sense. It fits with the "SHO experience".

I would add that the increase in revs with out the expected increase in speed is typically the sign of a slipping clutch, or slipping clutches in an auto trans. Both create a distinct odor, but I would not describe the odor as "sweet".

Use a small automotive inspection mirror (Sears) and look behind the water pump pulley for the tell-tale sign of a leaking water pump. The pump "weep hole" is behind the pulley on the bottom.

Look for signs of mineral deposits arround the weep hole, AND/OR a trail of fluid, and/or a path of bright metal that has been cleaned by hot anti-freeze, and/or a dark trail.

The "signs" you will find depend upon the age and condition of the anti-freeze in the vehicle, and to some degree on what is in the water that was mixed into the anti-freze (iron, calcium, clorine,etc).

Hot anti-freeze on the CPS will cause the problems you describe, such as the stall and hard re-start. Check your codes and see if the CPS code has been stored.

Get back to us and let us know what you find out. rangerj

PS. Do not jump the gun and assume you may have a clutch problem. The tach is controlled by the CPS and you may have been getting a false reading if the CPS was acting up due to fluid getting on it.

Point 2. This is all theary until you look into it and give us some more details on what you find.

 

[ncsu brandon]

first i know i have a clutch problem persay....my clutch cable is on it's way out and the new one is sitting at home waiting for me to go home this weekend and install...

I've gone through three cps's due to oil fouling it out...so i know what happens when that goes and this just doesn't seem the same....maybe not....

As i said above i'm not seeing any codes related to the CPS either these are what it finds in history:
219 - SPOUT circuit failure timing defaulted to 10 degrees - follow code 213 diagnosis
542 - Fuel pump open bad ground or always on

I won't have a chance to do any checks about the leaks until this weekend, but i haven't noticed any puddles under the car though but i'll let you know about that also...

and finally...knock on wood nothing else has happened since then....

 

[Joe'sSHO]

Is the fuel pump making noise when you turn the car on? I've seen a lot of them go in SHO's and mustangs alike. I know it sounds like an obvious suggestion, but if you said you don't think it's the CPS it might be the pump. Hope this helps.

 

[ncsu brandon]

i knonw it'll prolly be hard to describe with text, but what kinda sound do you mean?

 

[billyshoe]

Fuel pump, get a new one.

 

[billyshoe]

Originally posted by ncsu

I've gone through three cps's due to oil fouling it out...so i know what happens when that goes and this just doesn't seem the same....maybe not....


[/QB]

I don't believe oil will foul a cps or antifrezze-Unless the cps already bad.

 

[BeatDaSHO]

The sound will be a whining noise when you turn the key of your car to the on position. It should "whine" for about 1.5 seconds.

Greg

 

[ncsu brandon]

well mine does have a "whine" sound but it's always done that... the pump i have in there was replaced about 5 years ago == <30K miles

what kinda job is it to replace the pump? and what would be a good replacement? but i'm not singleing this out to be the problem yet...but it does seem the most logical

 

[Joe'sSHO]

I can almost bet money that it's the pump after five years, there is a good chance that it's done with. As far as changing the pump it's not too involved a process. You need to drop the tank, which will involve unbolting the two straps holding it up, unhooking two hoses at the rear, and disconnecting the fuel lines. Once the tank is down, you will need to use a hammer and a screwdriver (at least that's what I used) to loosen the pump, hitting the top ring (I don't know the name) counter clockwise in order to loosen it. I'd advise putting a piece of cloth over the head of the screwdriver (don't want sparks) when loosening. Installation is the reverse of removal. When you put the pump in and the tank back up and secure, prime the pump by turning the car quickly on and off a few times. Then you should be good to go. This is how I did mine, but if anyone has anything more in depth or if I did something wrong feel free to tell. Hope that helps a bit.

 

[pete c]

You say the tach jumped, but the car didn't. Did the engine rev? I had a half shaft pop out on the way to work after I didn't get it seated all the way. Is it possible for one to pop out, then slip back in? I doubt it, but I don't know. A clutch cable hanging up sounds more like it.

 

[projectSHO89]

Wow, pete!

You resurrected an 8 month-old thread!

Steve