Something doesn't look right!

[Silver Bullet]

Ok... The last time I went to replace my brake pads I remember they came with a metal backing to them. I went to buy pads for the rears today at AutoZone, and they came without them? They gave me "Duralast D610" pads. It's just the actual padding & spring like clip on top. What's the deal?

Also... Are they simple to replace, because I am well aware there's no such thing as a "Simple" replacement on these cars EVER.............

 

[CerberuS]

I donno about your pads ,

but front is as easy as any other cars , while the rear you might have to push the piston in order to put the caliper back. But the rear pistons needs to be turned while pushing with a cube.

Maybe other are able without the cube...

 

[Green Sho]

the rears are easy....just do a search on turning in the rear caliper pistons. I used the cube...but others don't like to cause you're apt to bust up your knuckles. As for the pads, you don't need the metal backing, just make sure to grease up the contact points on the pads so they don't make unwanted noise.

 

[Shoaz]

The fronts are very easy to change. Since you have 610 pads I'm assuming you have a GenII, in which case you take the wheel off, remove the bolt from only the top-most slider pin, rotate the caliper off the rotor. Remove old pads. Loosen bleeder screw and push the piston back, close the bleeder screw. Put the new pads in the bracket, rotate the caliper back, put the slide pin bolt back in.

Back when I used the 96 brakes at the track I'd change pads before and after the event, and I _really_ miss the GenII brakes. Pad changes are soooo quick and easy.

 

[97SHOgt]

If you go back to AutoZone you can rent a kit that comes with the tool you need to push in the piston on the rear calipers, with that it's just as easy as the fronts. You just give them some money take the tools, then return the tools when you're done and get your money back. I replaced all my brakes this summer, should be a quick fix. Good luck!

 

[RacingNotPacing]

I just used a good sized C-clamp!

But be sure not to push the cyl. back too far, you can mess up the boot/seal.

 

[SHOsFAST]

when I did my rears the piston actualy fell out of the caliper so I replace both of the rear calipers along with the rotors and pads. Although I dont remember what the pads looked like. The front I just did 2 days ago, they aren't bad at all.

 

[ty91sho]

i had to rebuild both of mine on the rear of a 91 sho plus, they are not that bad to do, if you would take a c-clamp and a pliers or something that you can grab the piston on the side and turn it in, or if you have two people you have on guy that pushes down on the piston and one guy turn them in, iam sure you can do it

 

[SHOZ123]

Harbor Freight has a $20 Disc Brake tool set that is worth every penny.

Edit... Well I paid $20 for mine. I see they are listed at $40 now. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40732

 

[Racer X]

I would remove the bolt from both slider pins, and then remove the pins and regrease them. Those pins like to rust and seize, especially if the boots aren't in the best of shape.

 

[Shoaz]

I would remove the bolt from both slider pins, and then remove the pins and regrease them. Those pins like to rust and seize, especially if the boots aren't in the best of shape.

Yeah, you gotta remember, I'm in AZ. Stuff like that doesn't apply down here.

 

[SHOck]

You're going to have difficulty with pads that have no metal backing. The metal backing is what holds the pad in position. If you have only the pad material, jeez, never seen that, but it's for stuff like that, that I always inspect the contents when picking up parts. Grabbed a heater core from AZ just last night, and the first one was severely belt, over 1/2" deflection, like someone at the factory had stomped on it.