Some probs with the bean...

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bmcreider

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Ever since I've had greenbean I've noticed that about half the time the AC is on and the car is at idle, there will be a moaning noise similar to scooting a desk or chair (wooden) across a wooden floor...high pitched moan.

When the AC isn't on, it goes away.


Any ideas?

The AC still works great, just it has that annoying noise..

Also my hawk pads squeek like ****? I got some grease for the brakes, the stuff you buy in the little packets, to try and help it since they don't have any on there, should it help hawk pads?

And lastly...
How far does your brake pedal go down before it gets stiff? I push mine about 1/4 the way down before it starts to stiffen up...and Karson said the fluid was dirty but I want to know if it's worth it to bleed it...
 

NotSoSlowSHO

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1. Dont know.

2. How old are the Hawk pads? If they are new, they might not be broken it yet. Mine were a bit nosy when new. Quited down a lot as they wore, as well as got GRIPPIER as they wore.

3. ALWAYS worth it to bleed it. Get some fresh fluid in there, brake fluid does "go bad" from contaminents in the system and from moisture buildup over time.

You do want to stop, right? :biggrin:
 

SHOtimer

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The bearing in the AC Compressor might be going out causing that noise. The bearing is replaceable I think.

As stated above they could be breaking in. I wouldn't hurt to put that stuff on the back of the pads to quiet them down.

If the fluid is dirty then bleed them all out all the way, untill each wheel has clean pure fluid.

Doug
 

SHO-93-ATX

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SHOtimer said:
If the fluid is dirty then bleed them all out all the way, untill each wheel has clean pure fluid.

Doug


AND make sure all the air bubbles are out of the system or you will have a spongy pedal and it truely sucks!
 

bmcreider

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Well can I just bleed it normally...the old fashioned way...or is there anything special I need to do with ABS?
 

SHOtimer

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There are special ways to bleed the ABS system, but it isn't necessary. Just bleed them like you would any other car.

Doug
 

shoteen95

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bmcreider

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I read it...should have looked there anyways lol...

How much fluid should I need to completely flush out the old fluid and fill it up with new fluid?
 

TYSHO

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I told you about the fluid. Your best bang for the buck and quality, locally, will be the Valvoline synthetic Dot 4. I wouldn't mess with Dot 3.
 

AutoSHO

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I agree on the Valvoline Synthetic. It has a great wet boiling point for a commonly available fluid.
 

bmcreider

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Ollrighty...I get paid today but don't think I'll be able to cash it till tomorrow...

So tomorrow I will get the fluid, today I might just put that squeek **** on the brakes...

And what's the probability my bleeder valves are seized? It's a TX car all it's life...so no real rust...131k...should I expect any problems?
 

TYSHO

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To break them loose, use a socket. If you use a wrench, you have a chance of stripping it or saying some unkindly words when it decides to slip off or bust loose, causing you to bust your hand up.


Let me know when you're going to do it, I can swing by after school today, or tomorrow, to give you a hand.
 

greenbeanmtx

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Im still having a hard time trying to imagine what this noise is cuz it never made any unusual noises. The air compressor has always made the typical compressor noise they make when it cycles on and off and it sounds louder than normal not because of the compressor but because of the exhaust and removed silencer cone with the k&n. Unless somethings happened to that air compressor since i had it i really dont see that as the root cause of your noise but i could be wrong. To my knowledge thats the only thing thats never been messed with on that car except for the blender door being replaced by the original owner. In fact i think its still on freon. To be honest you might want to put the silencer cone back in and see if this is what your hearing, cuz it made a notible noise when i removed it, you can hear it actually sucking in the air and i never really noticed a difference in performance with or without it. And if those pads are still bothering you then you might as well replace them with some stock pads or something or at least put that stop squeak stuff on the back of them. The squeek occured under light braking and came from the rears and i didnt replace the rear rotors when i did the job cuz they still looked good. The front rotors however are brand new. I might have made a mistake by not replacing the rear rotors as well but ive done it before without any ill effects on other cars so i thought i was doing the job correctly. When i bought the car it had stock ford pads on it and never made a peep. As soon as i put the hawks on thats when the noise started and when i compared teh stock pad versus the hawks i noticed the hawks didnt seem to have as much of the quality with them if that makes any since as far as those springy things that hold the rears down and such. Also the reason i suggested geting stock pads to replace them was because on normal driving the initial grip of the stock pads felt better than the hawks do but as soon as the hawks get heat in them they seem to prosper, i also noticed the squeeking to disipate once they get hot, dont know if they are still doing that or not though. In my opinion they are a little overkill for the car since its just getting street driven and if you hadnt bought it from me i would have replaced them again with some stocks. The reason i jumped on the hawks was cuz everyone praised them but it was after i bought them that i realized everyone that had 96 upgrades are the ones that praised them and i hadnt seen anyone use them on stock size brakes. If i had kept the car i would have upgraded to 96s cuz i felt that was the only thing the car really lacked. I also feel thats why u locked your brakes up was cuz of those hawks. I know everyone praises them but i think i wasted money on them. If i was you id replace the pads with stock ones and bleed it with new fluid. I think that would be all it needs unless you are racing it on the dallas streets :p Those pads are so new that you probably could replace the rears without even needing the tool that puts the piston back in, they should still be plenty recessed in there. Oh well its ur car now so ill let ya do what ya want, im just throwing my .02 cents in hehe. ;)
 

TYSHO

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greenbeanmtx said:
Im still having a hard time trying to imagine what this noise is cuz it never made any unusual noises.

Well Brett IS driving it! :rofl:


greenbeanmtx said:
I know everyone praises them but i think i wasted money on them. If i was you id replace the pads with stock ones and bleed it with new fluid.

That fluid is so old that it's the problem. The fluid heats up and then the brakes suck. When that happens, it doesn't matter what pads you have, it sucks. After he bleeds them, the Hawks should be just fine.
 

bmcreider

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Hey now no **** talkin'!

I take care of that car I've already washed it 3 times...and conditioned the leather...etc...etc...etc...

We can bleed the brakes tonight if you ever get online, if you want, I can go get the brake fluid right now...

And I was also thinking it was the air box just making a whistle sorta sound...but I can't put it back on because you have it, lol.
 

greenbeanmtx

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bmcreider said:
Hey now no **** talkin'!

I take care of that car I've already washed it 3 times...and conditioned the leather...etc...etc...etc...

We can bleed the brakes tonight if you ever get online, if you want, I can go get the brake fluid right now...

And I was also thinking it was the air box just making a whistle sorta sound...but I can't put it back on because you have it, lol.

I gave ya the silencer cone, it should just snap right back in. Unless your saying someone else has it or something. But i gave ya that and the stock shifter and sub box. Thats everything i had that came off her.
 

TYSHO

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Oh man, someone sold their old car in time.........pics should follow!

Firework brakes, abs unplugged for a reason, broken clip for diagnostics on abs(known problem), fuel pump gargle, popping in turns, old/screwed spark plug wires(bosch), bosch 4 tipped plugs, a/c bearing on its last leg about to seize up, plug well leaks, valve cover bolt leaks, and maybe some more I'm forgetting. :doh:

Anyway, the car still runs strong, especially after we installed a high performance spark plug wire, should be a pic of it. I mean this wire is like no other, the best wire a SHO can get.
 

bmcreider

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Ya seriously...

WTF Karson?

The ABS Module was UNPLUGGED and THAT is why the ABS didn't work...I plug it in and it has a PROBLEM and the ABS doesn't work then either because the ABS light is on. Seriously, WTF? ABS kicked in on the test drive my *** the ****** thing was unplugged since I bought it.

I also saw a post about how you told some guy to unplug the ABS module so the light wouldn't come on so he could sell it, which leads me to believe you did just that.

And wtf is with the popping when I turn? I think it's just the suspension, but it could be something else...like BALL JOINTS?

And also...complete 60k @ 115k? Come on. The ******' valve covers are leaking and so are the bolts...I always thought it misfired even when I first drove it, but didn't think it was possible because you said new this and that...But the plugs are POS Bosch +4, and the wires are POS too and BROKE so now I have a ****** rigged F150 wire in there...

And also. The AC compressor bearing is so shot now that when I turn on the AC the damned thing makes the car bog so much that it almost kills it, the oil pressure light will turn on...so no more AC for me, YAY.

Come on seriously? ABS is ****** up, the AC is ****** up, the wires and seals are ****** up...$4,200?


PICS very soon.
 

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