So how hot do you think my brakes got?

[Racer X]

I'm not going to go into details so far as the circumstances behind this, but I felt the need to show everyone the aftermath.

Passenger side:


Driver's side:


The ATe Super Blue did boil to some degree, but not nearly as bad as the Synthetic DOT4 did last year at Gingerman on my stock 92 brake setup. Needless to say, I'm looking at new calipers (the rubber boots are all ashes, I shat you not, even the caliper slide pin boots ignited, not to mention that the caliper itself actually spread some), new pads (PFC Carbon Metallic again), rotors (they don't feel warped, but why take chances), and a system flush. If anyone else thinks something else should be replaced, let me know. Now's a good time, since she's all apart.

 

[Mr95Gl]

Holy. . . .

 

[djcannon]

Nothing that a warranty would cover?

 

[Shoaz]

Ventilate thy brakes.

Delete fog lamps. Brake ducts.

 

[Rockledge]

I can almost smell the rubber burning from here.

 

[yamahaSHO]

I burnt the boots off my Cobra PBR's from street driving. I just had mine cleaned, powder coated, and I rebuilt them. How much did the caliper spread?

 

[JrodSVT]

i'd keep the rotors they are heat treated now.

good job Hamal

 

[drivinhard]

The PFC pads are your problem. They aren't a good track pad at all, the heat is going to take off with them.

 

[Racer X]

I burnt the boots off my Cobra PBR's from street driving. I just had mine cleaned, powder coated, and I rebuilt them. How much did the caliper spread?

Measuring the pad wear, the difference in height from left to right (across the narrowest section of the pads) was more than 3mm. Also, i know you track your car alot, and that you're laying down just a scoche more power than I am... does this happen to you alot, or have you implemented something to keep brake temps under control? This isn't a frequent thing for me (in fact this is the first time I've ever burnt anything off of my brakes), but if there's anything I can do in the future to help keep myself fire-free, that'd be great.

Nothing that a warranty would cover?

The pads have a 2 yr warranty from AutoZone. I've had them less than 6 months. I just picked up my free brand new set about 20 minutes ago.

 

[Shoaz]

Measuring the pad wear, the difference in height from left to right (across the narrowest section of the pads) was more than 3mm. Also, i know you track your car alot, and that you're laying down just a scoche more power than I am... does this happen to you alot, or have you implemented something to keep brake temps under control? This isn't a frequent thing for me (in fact this is the first time I've ever burnt anything off of my brakes), but if there's anything I can do in the future to help keep myself fire-free, that'd be great.

Brake ducts. Cheap, simple, lightweight. No more hot brakes.

 

[wood_e]

Get rid of the phenolic pistons on those GT brakes...

 

[Shoaz]

How big are your rotors? They look a little small-ish. Larger rotors help keep the system cooler as well for a number of reasons.

I think those calipers are not as heavy-duty as you'd like. If you've really spread one of them consider upgrading to PBR or Wilwood calipers, decent sized rotors, and brake ducts.

For me the final step toward having trouble-free brakes at the track was installing the ducts. Even with the 12.5" Baer kit and Castrol fluid I was having overheating problems, but once I put the ducts in all has been well since.

...runs to find wood on which to knock...

 

[Racer X]

I'm running Mustang GT calipers on 10.9" rotors, and PFC pads. ATe Super Blue brake fluid.

*edit*
FWIW, the calipers are PBR Calipers. Just not the Cobra ones, these are the calipers from an '01 GT.

 

[twr]

The PFC pads are your problem. They aren't a good track pad at all, the heat is going to take off with them.

Once again, your pad choice is the problem. PFC's suck now... I had a set of the lifetimers that I finally killed (great pad) I got the new 2 year warranty ones... they are so bad I won't even run them on the street. They are back in the box, I'll send them to you for free if you want!! They have no bite cold or hot.

Get a good street/race pads and you won't regret it plus your less likely to burn up the rubber seals again. All you are doing with the PFC is creating a lot of heat and having to stand on the brakes alot harder to get the car to slow down. Trust me on this, the pads are the problem.

Just my 2 cents

Edit: This a picture of one of the first pair of rotors that came off my car. Yes the rubber seals are a little cooked, but nothing like yours and still didn't need to replace them.

 

[NJSHO]

Cobra Calipers and 96 rotors or 96 calipers. I happen to have some '96 calipers/brackets with a couple of sets of like new pads if you are interested.

 

[wood_e]

+1 for cobras on 96 rotors...

 

[SHO Continental]

Brake ducts. Cheap, simple, lightweight. No more hot brakes.

What kind of rotors are those? me likes

 

[Racer X]

Once again, your pad choice is the problem. PFC's suck now... I had a set of the lifetimers that I finally killed (great pad) I got the new 2 year warranty ones... they are so bad I won't even run them on the street. They are back in the box, I'll send them to you for free if you want!! They have no bite cold or hot.

Figures.

Ok, so what are some recommendations for a street/ track pad? I'd like something that's drivable when cold/warm, and that can take some occasional road track use without sending me flying off of a turn. Again, my fitment is for a 2001 Mustang GT, and not a Taurus.

 

[djcannon]

Brake ducts. Cheap, simple, lightweight. No more hot brakes.

Is this the driver's side wheel? If so, isn't the rotor backwards? I thought they made those fins angled to allow air into them to allow them to cool, meaning the front right and left side should be swapped??

Maybe that's why you needed the duct??

 

[Shoaz]

What kind of rotors are those? me likes

TCE. Todd has the dimensions for the 12.5" kit (shown).

BTW, the hats ship gloss black. You gotta get 'em hot to turn that color.

Is this the driver's side wheel? If so, isn't the rotor backwards? I thought they made those fins angled to allow air into them to allow them to cool, meaning the front right and left side should be swapped??

Maybe that's why you needed the duct??

The rotor shown would be rotating counter-clockwise with forward motion (so, you're right, it's the driver side wheel). The vanes pump air from the center of the rotor outward, so that it's aided by centrifugal flow.

So it's on the proper side.