Slow window?

[masho95]

The other day I tried rolling down the driver side front window and it stopped short of going all the way down by a few inches. Brought it all the way up and down again same thing. Just wouldn't go all the way down. Then today I got it all the way down, but when I went to put it up, it went up VERY slowly especially near the top. I was wondering if that's a signal that the window motor might be going... but it's also about 25 degrees out here now. So maybe the mix of the two might be doing it? Any ideas on this one? Thanks!

 

[Gurt Diggler]

If it makes you feel any better, I also have those issues... as well as my speaker cuts in and out when the window goes up/down. Never take the "free" install!!!!

 

[marvsho17]

I think the lubrication has gone south.

 

[rangerj]

Remove the motor and clean out the old grease. Replace the grease with a grease that will remain soft in all weather, such as 1200-2 Lubri-plate.

Next check the comutator and brushes in the motor. apply battery voltage to the motor, both directions, and make sure that it works freely. If it does reinstall it. Make sure the electrical connections are clean and free of corrosion, and not loose. rangerj

 

[sdpatt]

If the speaker is cutting out, check to make sure the window mechanism is not snagging the speaker wires. The wires should be secured to the metal door frame away from the window levers.

 

[platoribs]

Is there some special secret trick to removing the door panals so they don't break the little wire spring catch holders and so they'll go back on tight?

 

[rangerj]

The door panels are held on with screws and nylon clips (commonly referred to as christmas tree push pins). So, what metal spring clips are you referring to?

GENTLY pry the door panel off as close to each fastener as you can get. Be sure that all screw are removed first. This will avoid any breakage or cracking of the door panel.

Note that the removal of the rivets holding the window motor will require the large industrial size rivet tool to replace them. The rivets can be replaced with nuts and bolts. I cannot remember the size off hand but will look it up if someone needs the info. Lock nuts are highly recommended. The motor torques quite a bit and ordinary nuts and lock washers could work loose.

rangerj

 

[Rockledge]

I agree, be careful with the door panels. I use a small flat pinch bar wrapped with black tape to help pry each of the pins out of the door while I am also pulling the panel away from the door. This helps ease the load on the plastic slots that hold the heads of the push pins in place on the back of the panel (I learned a lesson on my old '93 Sable about forcing things a little and breaking slots).

Also, on my '94 SHO, the rear window lift motors are bolted onto the brackets, no rivets to contend with. Not sure about the fronts, though. My rear windows did not work when I bought my SHO, I pulled both motors and was able to rescue one of them in the manner described by rangerj (other one was too far gone). Here's how they looked coming out:

To state the obvious, be sure clean and re-grease the window tracks while you are in there. :wave:

 

[FamilySHO]

While you can re-use the push pins it's virtually impossible not to break some or all. Body-Tite, Ford 45682, is a pack of 15 exact replacements. It's about $5.00 at AZ. My recollection is that the door has 11 of the pins.

 

[platoribs]

Thanks very much guys, when I went into the rear door cover of my 93 I broke something, chickened out and just left the window alone. I'll pick up the clips and have another go at it when it warms up a skosh.

 

[rangerj]

A SKOSH? OK, is that a skosh F or C?

If you all will look at rockledge's second picture you will see a couple of 1/4 inch rivets above the opening in the inner door panel. I think there are three or four total, but only two show up in the picture. He removed the motor and half of the mechanism. This is OK, but I prefer to remove the whole thing for cleaning and greasing. If you do this you can replace the rivets with nuts and bolts (1/4 inch by 20 pitch, 1/2 inch long bolt, 1/4 X 20 lock-nut) if you do not have, or have access to, the large riveter.

As stated by rockledge, you will sometimes find a motor that is too far gone. You can try a salvage yard replacement, if you do not live in the "rust belt", and save a few bucks. Otherwise replace the motor with a new one, or a factory fresh rebuilt one (if such a thing exsists).
rangerj

 

[NEAPnanny]

Mine had the same symptoms on the driver's door, speaker cutout and all. What I found was the rear window track had broken the weld at the bottom retainer bracket. This let the window shift over far enough to grab the wiring harness on the way down. The window was slow to roll down, and would stall near the bottom. The door would rattle when it was closed. This is the 2nd Taurus I've had to do this fix on. Always the driver's door, always a broken weld at the bottom of the rear window track.
I pulled the rear track and bracket out, drilled it out, and reattached the track to the mount with a bolt/nut combo. Lubed the tracks, repaired and reattached the wiring harness to the door.

 

[shoteen95]

lol, 2 sho's in 2 years..both have had window problems..

so far all four windows work in my 95...they're starting to slooooow down though.

now the windows in my moms 98..they move at lightspeed compared to mine