SHO resurrection: Cranks no start

[black92]

My home made light fits in between the runners.

 

[40BelowSummer]

I can make some longer leads for the light it was just unclipping the injector that was tough. I’ll give it a go

 

[rubydist]

I suggest you read post #3 again. If you would have, you would not have wasted time changing out a crank sensor that was clearly working, and you would have been looking for injector issues a while ago. Either replace the injectors, or have them cleaned - the car sitting has caused them to get gummed up so they do not inject fuel into the cylinders.

 

[40BelowSummer]

I suggest you read post #3 again. If you would have, you would not have wasted time changing out a crank sensor that was clearly working, and you would have been looking for injector issues a while ago. Either replace the injectors, or have them cleaned - the car sitting has caused them to get gummed up so they do not inject fuel into the cylinders.

Thank you. I will do that, but ALSO confirm they are being grounded by the EEC and told to fire in the first place.

 

[40BelowSummer]

Thanks for the help. Almost there, it starts with starting fluid.

So, all the injectors have 12 volts (red wire) but when I crank the car I measure less than 1 volt at the injector plug - the noid light blinks but the light was very dim too - is the < 1-volt normal? I have a new EEC coming on Saturday...a bad one would definitely cause the injectors not to fire. So its either that or all the injectors are bad/clogged...

I removed all six injectors (Accel) and none of them will click or spray when I apply voltage to them. Am I missing something?
They sat for a while but they were cleaned/flow tested less than 3,000 miles ago; I'll clean them as well.

 

[luigisho]

 

[40BelowSummer]

I tested with a noid light as shown in the first vid; weak light pulsing which is consistent with the 1volt I am measuring.
It's either the EEC or the wiring. I'll test it at the EEC or swap the EEC on Saturday.

I pulled all six and they measure 12.9 ohms which is consistent with my flow sheet/specs when they were professionally tested last.
BUT, shouldn't they be clicking or something when I apply voltage to the injectors on the bench? That parts got me. Maybe they're bad as well or maybe I'm a retard

 

[rubydist]

when you let them sit for extended periods of time, the gas can gum up inside the injector and make it stick, so the injector does not open and therefore does not spray fuel into the intake/cylinder. as I have been saying, the most likely issue is the injectors are gummed up. it does not matter if they were cleaned 3k miles ago, what matters is they have been sitting for an extended period of time. the fact that they do not click when power is applied confirms that they are sticky.
they need cleaned or replaced.

 

[40BelowSummer]

I'm sure that's the case I guess I'm just surprised I don't hear any of them click when the coil is energized. I'll give them a good colonic and see what's up.

 

[zak]

I have a brand new set of SMP injectors for a 3.0 that I would let go for 80 shipped.

 

[40BelowSummer]

What size are they? These ones are probably stuck shut

 

[BaySHO Performance]

I'd say clean the injectors before going any further.

 

[40BelowSummer]

I tried that method but they won’t click on. It seems like the plunger is stuck shut on them. I’ll let them soak overnight and see what happens but also looking into another set.

 

[40BelowSummer]

Took the injectors to a shop this morning to get cleaned, but he said he has rarely had luck when they were stuck shut/sitting that long and told me to get new ones (I don't disagree).
I soaked them in seafoam this afternoon and got one of them to click/unstuck so I took the rest to another performance shop that cleans them. They sounded much more confident and said they can probably have them done tomorrow afternoon - awesome! but I'm not getting my hopes up.

Got the new EEC today and stoked to hear this baby purrr once I get some good injectors in there! Thanks ya'll for the hand holding

 

[40BelowSummer]

Just an update:

Put the new injectors in and she fired right up! Took her for a spin a few times and man I forgot how much I love this car! Ran great! Drove it around for a few days, then threw a belt and had to replace the starter. Left town for a few weeks and now I'm back at it...

Replaced the starter and belt and now she won't start. I have spark and fuel (plugs wet) this time. No codes, everything looks good and mostly untouched as far as the intake/grounds go from when it was just previously running. No luck on starting fluid either like before. I'll probably take the intake off again and resinatll just to make sure everything looks good. Any other suggestions?

 

[SHOdded]

Does it crank but not start, or not even crank? What rpm is the crank speed?

 

[rubydist]

if it won't at least kick over with starting fluid, then you don't have a decent spark. or else the air intake is completely blocked.

 

[40BelowSummer]

Thanks guys. The spark seems strong/bright and all the grounds look good. All I changed was the belt and starter.
I tried starting it by spraying a tad of starting fluid in the TB to no avail. I'll recheck everything tonight. One thing interesting is it would at times give a nice puff, like the engine was pushing air out the intake. One of the looser vacuum lines popped off when it did this.

 

[rubydist]

what happened that it threw the belt off? did the timing belt jump?

 

[40BelowSummer]

Sorry I should have specified the serpentine belt. I had a problem with the idler pulley which made the belt walk off; fixed that and changed the starter at the same time.