SHO ford probe project

[probe_racer]

update, I realized i have not shown what modification needs to be done to transmission to clear the rear seal of the SHO so here it is



and today I put the engine/transmission back in car, now its just a matter or reconnecting everything in engine bay and hopefully it will roar back to life pretty soon again. I did cover all of the holes on engine because i left it exposed to elements tonight

 

[probe_racer]

This other probe is from Bob, he is my friend from Canada and we both struggled to make the sho wiring work with the probe, he was able to finish it already and enjoy it a lot, we both did the same approach to engine mounts, engines on both his car and mine should be sitting at the same level since the transmission can not be really be moved up or down. I think mine looks higher due to not having the fenders on it, the hood yes it has to be trimmed a little bit. oil pan did not get modified, and did add some mods to the bottom of subframe to kinda make a skid plate to protect the oil pan from being hit directly or hitting the ground. radiator.... that is still up on the air, power steering will most likely be the mr2/mrs unit due to begin able to "accept/understand" the speed sensor pulses from the probe and its all one unit.

 

[probe_racer]

soooo after a few months of sitting and waiting for attention.a little sneak peak



and



AN hoses, connectors, remote oil filter, to add bling but done out of necessity to clear radiator,
will post some updates soon as this thing has to be running within 2 months tops.

 

[probe_racer]

Hmmm its been over a year since i posted here....

its amazing how we have plans then life happens.......

The SHO probe is almost ready, i began working on it again, putting all the remaining parts on (brackets, sensors, intake), engine cranks over easily and the ECU says everything is alright. due to this thing sitting outside with no gas on tank, had to replace that and fuel pump as well. had to find a replacement AC compresssor, I will be posting updates on this in the following days, pictures that will show how engine is attached to car now, relays, etc. and hopefully video of the car coming back to life in 2 weeks time.

 

[SHOdded]

Isn't your kid ready to graduate from college? LOL.

 

[probe_racer]

LOL i know right, he is growing up super fast too. I cant wait for him to go for a ride on this car with me and see his little face light up when the car goes "vroom vroom"

It should be kinda quick considering the car is not that heavy to begin with.

optima red top has no problem cranking the engine

 

[SHOdded]

He can further mod the car to provide electric motor assist to the current non-drive wheels. I see a lot of that going on nowadays

 

[probe_racer]

got some stuff today

 

[probe_racer]

got a 29 inch belt no tensioner, belt goes around water pump and crankshaft pulley it fits "tight" it should be ok to drive water pump.



and pic showing how close the clutch slave cylinder is

 

[SHOdded]

Purdy exhaust! Deliberately didn't weld the 2 slipjoints though?

 

[Off Road SHO]

No real reason to weld the slip joint IMHO, not much exhaust is going to get through that joint and it acts as an expansion joint if not welded.

Tom

 

[probe_racer]

so i been running into an issue, the RPM gauge does not work.. i rechecked ALL the wiring and it is connected to the signal wire, no shorts etc, I ran engine for about 20 secs, two different times, and the rpms will not move (engine runs kinda crappy during the first few seconds). The only codes that the car is showing is 556 (fuel pump circuit failure or something like that) which i think is due to only running the low speed fuel pump wiring (im using individual relays) and the pump does stay running when the car is on the "on" position. got a new cam position sensor and no change, crankshaft position sensor is new and is correctly gaped as per factory specification. any input on this??

Also i dunno it this is related but i got new oxygen sensors because the old ones were ..... old. and when i hooked them up the computer would not even flash codes. now with new 02 sensors it seems happy, but no rpms yet.

The gauge im sure it works because it jumped a little bit during one of the times i was pulling codes.

Thanks for any help.

 

[SHOdded]

Have you had the RPMs up high, or just idling? Revving it high may help start up the tach.

 

[probe_racer]

rpms revved up engine twice the tach not moving... cant figure it for the life of me.

 

[zoomlater]

Are the other check lights/gages working on the dash when you turn the key before starting, just ruling out the simple stuff
Its possible the cam position sensor is bad out of the box. Does it start on the first try? Check if you have two of those orange seals stuck in the Cam position sensor connector. Sometimes they come out with the connector and there is one in the new sensor you install

This is a great build thread can't wait to see it done

 

[probe_racer]

yeah other lights (oil pressure gauges, temp, gas level, volt meter, check engine, seat belt, brakes) all work, crankshaft position sensor new, new camshaft sensor, swamped out the ignition coils for another set i have (both spark). tried two different dis modules no go for the rpm.



oh it seems one of the injectors did not seat correctly on the fuel rail, it began to leak a lot of gas when running the koeo test.... fail

but rpm gauge did jump all the sudden to like 4000 rpms then it went down again when the koeo test was going on.

what can it be guys.

 

[Off Road SHO]

I would suspect a lack of good grounding somewhere. The SHO motor (like most new engines today) is so dependant on having a common ground throughout the engine and bay.

Tom

 

[probe_racer]

I would suspect a lack of good grounding somewhere. The SHO motor (like most new engines today) is so dependant on having a common ground throughout the engine and bay.

Tom

I will add more grounds to the engine and intake manifold see if that would work, as i think i only have that one lonely ground wire that attaches to the intake manifold by the DIS module.


Thank again !!

 

[probe_racer]

so new ground wires added, im assuming the factory one that attaches to the intake manifold where the DIS is, is to make sure that thing is grounded right??

also added more grounds that ground engine block to intake manifold. and engine is grounded directly to battery as well now, transmission is also grounded.

i will post my results in a few hours.

 

[probe_racer]

soooo engine will now only crank over and over and over and will not fire...... then after multiple attempts at this, switched dis, same result, switch coil pack, same result, switched cam sensor again, only cranks. fuel pressure good, fuel pump runs non stops during all these sessions of cranking engine over and over, and no spark anywhere, and no tach running.
So after saying screw this and then began to charge to battery once again, and picking up the mess, i tried one last time and engine cranked for like 10 seconds, did a small backfire sound and then it ran, kinda crappy for first few seconds then got steady, tach still dead all other gauges working flawlessly, let it ran for like 30 secs tops gave it gas 2 times and killed it again (as it has no radiator attached), tried to make it run again and it cranked over and over and did not come to life.

pulled codes with koeo and it did gave me the same codes: 556, 557 (im still thinking no biggy as its for the fuel pump circuit as it seems it does not like being on relays only)

then it continued and it gave me code 214 on the continuous memory ... so now im thinking the NEW crankshaft position sensor i put in engine when i put it together, is bad.... so much fail.

so i guess i will begin to take this thing apart again to change that sensor... what do you guys think??