SHO ford probe project

[Shovert]

Done it made of alumium. Mine had to be made shorter. I am going to start up car with pan as it. Test it and remove engine and then put bump on side to increase oil capacity on passenger side.
Pickup mod.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w224/mgman75/93 mustang converiable/100_1286.jpg
pan mod.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w224/mgman75/93 mustang converiable/100_0989.jpg
More pictures here of pan and pickup. Maurice
http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w224/mgman75/93 mustang converiable/#!cpZZ4QQtppZZ16

 

[probe_racer]

here is the last connections i'm finishing but as usual i'm asking just in case i get something wrong

"A/C Request signal (Pin 21). This is a switched HIGH (battery voltage) signal that is true when the EATC/HVAC control and the cycling switch have requested compressor clutch operation."

so if i understand correctly this Pin 21 on CCRM which is also connected to pin 10 on PCM get 12 volts positive from cycling switch so computer knows when AC is on right? which im assuming is responsible for kicking up idle when AC is on and to let computer know when to activate the WAC so the compressor does not go boom.

 

[probe_racer]

hmmm super late update sucks when projects come to a halt due to emergencies and being broke :angelnot:

Anyways everything is wired up but I'm getting a battery this week too, because the one i used to tried to start it up does not spin engine fast enough, only 500 CA, so im going with an optima with 800 CA that should be enough to spin engine fast enough to fire it up. or should i go higher??? any input appreciated.

wish me luck !!!

 

[intimdatr]

If youve got the space as big as you can get, ive 950 CA and love it.

 

[probe_racer]

update got battery engine only cranks over, no error codes from pcm have no clue what is going on, there Is spark and fuel

 

[Off Road SHO]

Have you got good compression? Spark and fuel at the correct time?

Tom

 

[SHOspazz92]

There is also a few ground paths that are required for this engine to run. Make sure that you have a ground running from the Intake manifold (The side that the DIS is on, you can use one of the crossover tube bolts for the ground) to the firewall, or the like.

-Sam

 

[probe_racer]

timing im assuming is correct since the engine was running when removed from donor taurus SHO and nothing has been changed. so im assuming timing is good and there is good compression i checked it a few weeks ago.

I will check my grounds again and see if that helps thanks guys. i will keep you updated, thanks soo much for your help and support.

I sometimes want to give up but knowing that 2800 lbs of car + modified SHO engine = Fun, keeps me going.

 

[Off Road SHO]

He said he was getting spark, so he probably has enough grounding.

How do you know the cylinders are getting fuel?



Tom

 

[rubydist]

it is very possible it sat long enough that the injectors are stuck closed and need cleaned.

 

[probe_racer]

the cylinders inside smell like gas and can see some moisture inside cylinders after i remove spark plugs, spark plugs seem to have moisture too from gasoline.

I wait out for everything to cool/evaporate for a while and give it a try and check again after trying to start it, also the return fuel line is getting fuel back into tank i checked by disconnecting it.

i will recheck wiring again to make sure everything is ok.

only thing i can think of that might create issues is all the switches i had to splice in with sho harness, for example the brake pedal, and a/c pressure switch, and neutral switch.

will keep you guys update it as i find stuff, but all the brainstorming from you guys helps a ton thanks !!

 

[intimdatr]

Make sure you have the intake grounded for the DIS.

 

[probe_racer]

Intake grounded at two different points, i will recheck that again.

 

[intimdatr]

Alright, Just checking! To check you have fuel i recommend pulling the intake and unplug the Coil and LOOK to see if each injector is firing.

 

[dohcsable]

First gen probe I trust?


Also, id get the inline tool to make sure you're getting proper spark.

 

[probe_racer]

yeah first gen probe LX, with suspension goodies.


i have the inline tool to check for spark, the one that attaches to spark plug and lights up a little light bulb when cranking or the engine is running, there is spark.

i will recheck wiring and im thinking of posting a list of all connections and wire splicing and their polarities. i even checked the relays i used to replace the ccrm and they all work.

gotta love electrical stuff in cars

 

[zak]

it is very possible it sat long enough that the injectors are stuck closed and need cleaned.

This is a very valid comment, I ran into this on a recent junkyard motor swap. I ended up carefully draining the injector rail using very low pressure compressed air into the Schreader (disconnect supply line and put container there - wear eye protection), then jacking up the passenger side and filling the rail with Chevron Techron injector cleaner, then reconnecting the line. Had to do it twice, but after it finally ran. I think I also pulled the vacuum line on the regulator to keep the pressure in the rail a little higher after starting.

One of those on car fuel injector cleaners might also help, think I ended up with two or three setups for applying those.

 

[Shovert]

How much fuel pressure you got?
Pull a plug and hook spark plug wire to it and see how good the spark is. Make sure other side of plug is grounded to engine.
All 4 bolts in the DIS module I know from reading 1 or 2 of those grounds the module. Alread mention ground wire from the crossover to body ground. Assuming you DIS is still mounted there. Only ideas I got now. Maurice
Edit is it possible you could have the fuel and return line swapped. In other words have the flow into the fuel system reveresed. Maurice

 

[probe_racer]

update

engine did not start so i said screw it and pulled out, decided to do maintenance on it now and deal with electrical later, I'm on the process of doing a kinda "soft" rebuild (cause im broke) which includes the following:

all 60k maintenance

Checking ALL bearings

cleaning the engine intake, exhaust ports with chemicals, or whatever it takes for them to be squeaky clean. i dont know if there is a chemical that takes care of rust inside block where antifreeze flows, but i think it should be fine.

not changing piston rings or head gaskets cause im on a budget and the engine was running anyways with no issues when i got it, and its been "asleep" for two years covered with tarps and plastic bags except when been fabricating stuff to fit it in car.

The fuel pressure should be fine, fuel pump is new.... but i will test it properly with a pressure gauge.

fuel injectors... I am going to have them sonic cleaned or whatever is called and tested and might change the tips cause i was reading on some post a long time ago here that some people found out how to put better tips on them.

I think the not start issue might have to be due to a connection I'm missing such as

brake switch, clutch interlock switch, neutral switch or something similar. I'm rechecking (third time) the wiring just to make sure i didn't mess up. and will be getting new sensors.

i will be posting a ton of pics in the coming 2 weeks to get feedback and to post problems i encounter.

opinions, feedback (good and bad) all appreciated. Thanks for the help so far guys.

:wave:

 

[Shovert]

There is a big red wire [about a # 12 wire at least on mine] that attachs at starter solinoid. I think it feeds ignition during the start mode is it hooked up etc? Maurice