SHO ford probe project
- Thread starter probe_racer
- Start date
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probe_racer
Active Member
yes the 89 first gens came with manual seat belts and all probes have the same mounting points for them as well, even though the auto seat belts became standard.
groove83
PimpTempoOwner
actually, the mazda tranny used in the probes is supposed to be stronger then the MTX 4 used in the SHO's (from what I have heard, the 3.0 probes used the same tranny internals as the gt's) and the good thing about the mazda tranny is you can still get parts for it. (I am also a long time member of both the tcca and probetalk, along with performance probe, and Tempotopaz.com, since my cars are two v6 5 speed tempo's.)
and I can attest to the 626 running a SHO motor, the drivetrian is sitting in my yard due to the car being side swiped.
and I can attest to the 626 running a SHO motor, the drivetrian is sitting in my yard due to the car being side swiped.
probe_racer
Active Member
do you have pics of the 626 setup, specifically the mounts for the engine and were you able to use the power steering in the stock position?? did you use custom driveshafs???, which tranny did you use???
thanks
thanks
probe_racer
Active Member
ok guys the project is a go, the engine is good and right now im removing the wiring from my stock engine, does anyone know if ford used the same tachometers and other gauges on its cars, i know the clusters themselves are different but im wondering if just the gauges themselves all are the same and run on the same voltage/signals.
any help on this is appreciated.
any help on this is appreciated.
luigisho
SHO Member
Some one suggested just slapping it in and I would differ in that opinion. I would at least put new crank seals on both sides while it's out. I would also consider a new timing belt to save digging in after you finally got it to fit.
Don't know a damn thing about them gauges.
Don't know a damn thing about them gauges.
Off Road SHO
Moderator
Probe Racer, don't major in minor things. The guages will be the least troublesome for you. Don't let that get in the way of starting the fab work necessary for actually fitting the motor. That chicken isn't even an egg yet so let's not count it.
Tom
Tom
Phoenix
SHOHOLIC
Well you can go aftermarket.
Thats what I did with my 2002 SHO (2002 taurus with 94 sho engine). The 2002 uses electronic tach while the old setup had a cable. So I went with this. These are speedhut gauges. They run for about 450$ for the full kit.
Thats what I did with my 2002 SHO (2002 taurus with 94 sho engine). The 2002 uses electronic tach while the old setup had a cable. So I went with this. These are speedhut gauges. They run for about 450$ for the full kit.
jonheese
Used-To-Know-It-All
Small point, but don't you mean "electronic speedometer"?
Phoenix
SHOHOLIC
Correct. My bad.
probe_racer
Active Member
ok it seems from the research i been doing that the only gauge im going to have to worry about is the tachometer since the signal is picked differently but all of the other gauges should work since the oil pressure, water temp, seem to be the same as the ones on my current engine.
all the 60k work is going to be done to the engine including new water pump. just to make sure the engine is reliable, the previous owner of the car had the rod bearings changed not long ago so im confident on that part. an aftermarket Y pipe is going to be required since there is no room for the stock one on my car.
I know the engine should run since i have all the wiring harness and the original ECU but i want to make sure my dash still works so i can keep an eye on the vitals. all of the wiring for the car right now in stock form allows all the accessories to turn on without the ECU.
worse comes to worse i will mount an aftermarket tach infront of the stock one so from my the driver's of view it seems as if the aftermarket tach is on the stock position of the dash board.
once the car is up and running and have some money saved i will be getting BBB and other mild bolt-ons just to make the sho powered probe a bit quicker. im excited on taking on this SHO project
all the 60k work is going to be done to the engine including new water pump. just to make sure the engine is reliable, the previous owner of the car had the rod bearings changed not long ago so im confident on that part. an aftermarket Y pipe is going to be required since there is no room for the stock one on my car.
I know the engine should run since i have all the wiring harness and the original ECU but i want to make sure my dash still works so i can keep an eye on the vitals. all of the wiring for the car right now in stock form allows all the accessories to turn on without the ECU.
worse comes to worse i will mount an aftermarket tach infront of the stock one so from my the driver's of view it seems as if the aftermarket tach is on the stock position of the dash board.
once the car is up and running and have some money saved i will be getting BBB and other mild bolt-ons just to make the sho powered probe a bit quicker. im excited on taking on this SHO project
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might as well do rod bearings while the engine is out. maybe this is your first used vehicle, but i'm here to tell you, previous owners are out to F*** you!
sounds awesome though! can't wait to see some vids and quarter times!
sounds awesome though! can't wait to see some vids and quarter times!
SeanMc
NoMoSHO
I think I may have met you before. I'm a friend of 'dmark101' on Probetalk, and if you've been on Twist-O-Rama, or any of the SoCal meets, we've met. Good luck with the swap!
probe_racer
Active Member
the previous owner of this engine was from the arizona sho owners club member 93silverbulletSH0 and comes from his silver sho that was totalled from hitting a huge rock with the side of his car when sliding off road.
i have read his previous posts and it does seem legit that he changed the bearings not long ago but i will check them when checking crankshaft bearings.
i have read his previous posts and it does seem legit that he changed the bearings not long ago but i will check them when checking crankshaft bearings.
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probe_racer
Active Member
ok so far so good with this engine only issue with the transmission attached is the following:
when looking at the engine transmission combo in the engine bay, the front head has the ignition coils bolted to it with 4 bolts, the bottom bolts are on the way as well as that part of the head that has the threat to the bolts, my question is does anyone know if there is any coolant or anything else running where the bottom bolts attach, I ask because the bottom part where these two bolts attach is on the way of my slave master cylinder for the clutch, I need to grind this part in order to make my slave cylinder for the clutch to fit in the stock position.
i attached a small picture so you can see clearly what the problem is.
thanks
when looking at the engine transmission combo in the engine bay, the front head has the ignition coils bolted to it with 4 bolts, the bottom bolts are on the way as well as that part of the head that has the threat to the bolts, my question is does anyone know if there is any coolant or anything else running where the bottom bolts attach, I ask because the bottom part where these two bolts attach is on the way of my slave master cylinder for the clutch, I need to grind this part in order to make my slave cylinder for the clutch to fit in the stock position.
i attached a small picture so you can see clearly what the problem is.
thanks
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jonheese
Used-To-Know-It-All
Can you take a picture to explain what you mean? I'm a little lost...
Are you referring to the coil mounting bosses on the driver's side of the front head? Is your engine a 3.0L or a 3.2L? I ask because the 3.2L head has mounting bosses cast in it for both coil orientations (flat and tilted) and if one orientation isn't working for you, the other might be better.
See here for a pictorial demonstration of what I'm referring to:
http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/mod...e=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=167
3.0L style coil mount:
3.2L style coil mount:
Here's what that area looks like on the 3.0L (left) and 3.2L (right) heads:
Are you referring to the coil mounting bosses on the driver's side of the front head? Is your engine a 3.0L or a 3.2L? I ask because the 3.2L head has mounting bosses cast in it for both coil orientations (flat and tilted) and if one orientation isn't working for you, the other might be better.
See here for a pictorial demonstration of what I'm referring to:
http://www.shotimes.com/php-bin/mod...e=article&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0&sid=167
3.0L style coil mount:
3.2L style coil mount:
Here's what that area looks like on the 3.0L (left) and 3.2L (right) heads:
probe_racer
Active Member
thanks for your quick reply i redid the question and i can see on both of your pictures the bottom parts where the 2 screws attach those extensions coming out of the head are the parts I need to grind away
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