SHO difficult to re-start

[SHO green like$]

Newb to this forum, but I'm actually a good mechanic, yes I use volt meters and torque wrenches instead of chevy wrenches (I mean hammers)

My 95 ATX 3.2 89K miles is in great condition, NO MODS, other than Alarm with remote start.

Trouble synopsis: Car starts idles and drives fine at beginning of any day, as if it were new. When I turn off the ignition be it 1 mile (engine not warm yet) or 10 miles (engine up to norm temp). It's difficult to restart...Once it quit while driving, leading me to belive it was out of gas, (replaced fuel pump). Still does it every now and again.

At restart, she fights me for a minute (smooth engine rotation first try or two) then hard engine rotation the next few trys (acts like timing is advanced or low batt voltage).... Then she fires up, has no tachometer for one minute, and check engine light is on. Tach starts working.. I drive home.

Pulled Engine codes.....
Key On Engine Off -

111 - System checks OK
- 11 - codes stored in memory
124 - Throttle position voltage was higher than expected
176 - Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean Left or Front HO2S
212 - Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault
214 - Error in Cylinder ID (CID) circuit or signal.

Key On Engine Running -

116 - Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - [replaced w/ BorgWarner- WT-381 $20.99 @ O'Reilly] no repeat of code on 2nd test,That problem should be fixed
167 - No Throttle Position sensor change in "goose" test (must get at least 25% rotation) tried 3 times, still got same code.
225 - Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging)
538 - System did not receive "goose" test, tried 3 times, still got same code.

Note: After replacing ECT I got the same #s on KOEO test, Only got the #538 on the KOER test.
Note: After final engine code output, the TACH quit again for one minute then came back up...

So here are my questions:
"Help me find out How to Test" (preferably while still on the car)
1.Cylinder ID (CID) circuit or signal
2.CMP - Camshaft Position Sensor
3.CPS - Crank Shaft Position Sensor
4.DIS - Direct Ignition System
5.TPS - Throttle Position Sensor
6.IAC - Idle Air Control
7.code #212 - Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) How do I test this too?
8.HO2S - Heated Oxygen Sensor
"I need to know", OHMs if so how many, if volts how many, other means of testing please suggest..

..... Battery is NOT low, it's 6 mos old with good connectors, and I recharge it and monitor it constantly, trust me.
..... Fuel pump is new.
..... The waterpump doesn't leak there isn't any coolant near or around the CPS. (CrankShaftPositionSensor)
..... The CMP (CamShaftPositionSensor)has just the tinyest oil seepage normal for a Cam seal with 90k on it.
..... ECT (EngineCoolantTempSensor) is new, (now).
..... All other Sensors have good clean connections
..... Yes I could go buy a big heaping box of Sensors and replace everything in sight but I would rather know exactly what the problem is and be able to help others as well.

YES, I know they have books with these answers I have them for all my other cars. But at "O'NAPA'Zone" they say there isn't one for the SHO. :banghd:

I can't find a single intelligent mechanic in my town, they only want to replace what you tell them,(I can do that myself)they don't seem to do any testing.

Please help I have to drive this car to work,
Thanks

 

[jelloslug]

When you try and start it and it won't start does the tach move?

 

[SHO green like$]

Once the hard to restart sequence begins, The tach does work the first few times I crank it, then I notice it not working while cranking, then the engine starts, w/no tach , I drive for less than a minute, and the tach works again!! CEL comes on 'til I get home and let it sit overnight, and when I start it the next day it runs like a new car, no CEL...'til I shut it off and the hard to restart cycle begins again. I'm suspitious of the DIS, CPS, and CID - (Cylinder ID)

Thanks

 

[ViPER1313]

My money is on the cam position sensor (CID). $30 part, easy to replace (it is located towards the left rear of the engine above the power steering pump.) Easy part to find as well. If the seal behind it is leaking the new sensor might become fouled as well - someone else chime in here.

 

[jelloslug]

Ditto for me on the CID. Mine did the exact same thing. The CID tells the engine computer where the engine is at (rotation wise) and what plugs to fire first when you start it. If the sensor is bad the engine computer has to guess and it has a 1 in 3 chance of getting it right.

 

[SHO green like$]

Thanks for the 411 on the CID, thats alot easier to get to than the CPS.

Sorry for the super long post, zzzzz I wanted to provide as much detail as possible, 'cause I hate it when someone posts a prob. and doesn't even say what kind of car he has. And then has to be told how to pull codes etc etc......

I'm going to start a new post so everyone can chime in on the best way to test the sensors while still on the car.
So many people post with sensor probs. I think it would be best if there was an agreed test for each one, so guys don't go replacing ones that are working fine.