SHO died after spirited take off.... making horrible grinding (SOLVED!!) :)

[vortex2450]

Jesus

I need the likes of him for this one..


More important than the fix is why did this happen? I transferred the bolt using the double nut method, and tightened it until 85% ofthe treads were in, possibly a bad tensioner???


The tensioner was lying loose inside the timing belt housing and I can't find the sleeve/bearing for it... I'm assuming that there is one.. perhaps I didn't put it on and thatled to the bolt snapping???

 

[JRA2000TL]

Damn dude, that sucks. I would buy a whole new t-belt tensioner and bolt or use a known good bolt (which it sounds like you did the 1st time). Install new tensioner, inspect belt to determine if it needs replacement (might as well unless it's new and unscathed). Re-time the motor and put her back together. Sounds like you're out mostly on time rather than $ on this one, which may not be such a bad thing. $60 bucks for a new tensioner and $30 for a belt if you need it. Just a PITA of a job because when that t-belt gets off track the damned crank pulley and all that crap has to come off.

I'm going through doing a front 60k now and while it's not terribly complicated; it's a PITA in the fact that it's time consuming, especially if you work slow and pay attention to every detail to avoid any nasty surprises later.

 

[kevinspann]

Stud will need to be drilled out

 

[bigblock]

ah i just delt with very problem. you'll need to drill out that bolt and helicoil it (duh). you could try an ez-out but that failed for me. iirc the stud is a 10mm 1.50. i'll check when i get home. take out the battery, move the ps reservoir, unbolt the motor mounts and trans mount, take out the y pipe, then jack or pull the motor up high enough to get a drill in there. your going to have to move and disconnect some stuff as you jack the motor up. just go slow and make sure your not pulling on anything too much. im not gonna lie, drilling that bolt was a ***** for me so i hope you have better luck.

as to why the stud failed, i have no idea. i bought the car with the motor like that. my guess is installation error as he just did a 3.2 swap and only drove the car for about 500 miles before it broke. i found that most of the bolts on that car were loose -_-. i made sure when i replaced the stud it was tight as a ****. all good so far!

hope that helps

 

[vortex2450]

Damn dude, that sucks. I would buy a whole new t-belt tensioner and bolt or use a known good bolt (which it sounds like you did the 1st time). Install new tensioner, inspect belt to determine if it needs replacement (might as well unless it's new and unscathed). Re-time the motor and put her back together. Sounds like you're out mostly on time rather than $ on this one, which may not be such a bad thing. $60 bucks for a new tensioner and $30 for a belt if you need it. Just a PITA of a job because when that t-belt gets off track the damned crank pulley and all that crap has to come off.

I'm going through doing a front 60k now and while it's not terribly complicated; it's a PITA in the fact that it's time consuming, especially if you work slow and pay attention to every detail to avoid any nasty surprises later.

I've already gotten the acc torn down. So that' out of the way. What's going to be time consuming is getting that bolt out, I think maybe I put the bolt in back wards perhaps?

What's a PITA is that this is my ONLY transportation and I have to work tomorrow and Saturday.

ah i just delt with very problem. you'll need to drill out that bolt and helicoil it (duh). you could try an ez-out but that failed for me. iirc the stud is a 10mm 1.50. i'll check when i get home. take out the battery, move the ps reservoir, unbolt the motor mounts and trans mount, take out the y pipe, then jack or pull the motor up high enough to get a drill in there. your going to have to move and disconnect some stuff as you jack the motor up. just go slow and make sure your not pulling on anything too much. im not gonna lie, drilling that bolt was a ***** for me so i hope you have better luck.

as to why the stud failed, i have no idea. i bought the car with the motor like that. my guess is installation error as he just did a 3.2 swap and only drove the car for about 500 miles before it broke. i found that most of the bolts on that car were loose -_-. i made sure when i replaced the stud it was tight as a ****. all good so far!

hope that helps

I'm hoping I can succeed with an EZ out, if I don't this will leave me carless for a good amount of time..

-Josh

 

[bigblock]

just dont break the ez out in the bolt.. trust me.

 

[vortex2450]

I seriously starting to loose faith in myself, all I ever do is fix one thing and then inadvertently create cause for another issue, even when I take the most meticulous care things still go *****. If this wasn't my DD I wouldn't be very worried but damn it I need a stable vehicle..

This is the last straw, anything more and I'm going to find a suitable car that I don't have to put anything more than gas and oil changes into...

A SHO crisis i call it..

 

[lowc]

that sucks Josh!! did the stud break off clean/flush? Is there any way to get a small punch/chisle on it and try and back it out that way? could also try drilling a small pilot hole and then try a left handed bit

 

[91PDXmocha]

How much did you torque the bolt to ? The only way I see that happening is a faulty stud . Or over tightened tensioner and really tight belt setting + few redlines . There really is not very much tension on it so it didn't break just from the force of the timing belt . Good luck , I haven't had to do that but drilling out studs suck on anything .

 

[vortex2450]

that sucks Josh!! did the stud break off clean/flush? Is there any way to get a small punch/chisle on it and try and back it out that way? could also try drilling a small pilot hole and then try a left handed bit

Working on this car sucks .......

Yeah, flush, it's actually slightly recessed. I'm not going to screw around with it now, I'm going to wait until sunday when I'm totally free and then I'm going to put my game face on and not **** around. buy a right angle drill, buy an EZ out kit, drill a hole for the EZ out bit, clean all the grease around it up, heat it up with a torch, Get the EZ out (left handed bit) into and do my absolute best to get it out without having to lift the engine or lower the subframe....

I've also got to get a new tensioner, advance wants $80, that on top of the $70 to tow the car brings this repair up to near $200.... I dont' even wanna think about it anymore...


I am 100% out of steam. I'm just going to do what I have to to get by, I am contemplating maybe buy a Probe as my DD and keeping the SHO in the driveway until it's not going to give me anymore stress...

 

[vortex2450]

How much did you torque the bolt to ? The only way I see that happening is a faulty stud . Or over tightened tensioner and really tight belt setting + few redlines . There really is not very much tension on it so it didn't break just from the force of the timing belt . Good luck , I haven't had to do that but drilling out studs suck on anything .

When I torqued the belt on I simply moved the tensioner until the spring caught it and then put a slight tug on it to be sure it was snug, on the 14 mm nut I would say about 8 ft-lbs of force, maybe a tad moer. The tensioner making a sort of whining noise ( typical tensioner overtightened noise) when I overtightened it at first which is why I reset it a week ago and double checked...

The belt had the ideal amount of slack in it... Is there supposed to be some sort of sleeve for the inside of the tensioner like the sleeve in the acc. belt tensioner pulleys?

Anyways, the engine was biding up on the tensioner when it broke loose so I'm replacing it for my sanity... Thankfully I have a brand new belt so I'll use it even though the belt on it is brand new and shows no wear...

-Josh

 

[vortex2450]

Hey, I'm on the hunt for a new tensioner, advance said the quickest they can do is Wednesday, needless to say that's not going to cut it...

Anyways, what brand tensioner should I get, the ACdelco parts is higher priced than the gates but the picture of the gates doesn't look like the tensioner, I has some sort of different mount...

I need to order this ASAP so any quick replies are very much appreciated...


-Josh

EDIT: There is also this GMB brand tensioner which is online @ $45

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/p...gVGF1cnVzIEdNQiBUaW1pbmcgQmVsdCBUZW5zaW9uZXI=

Any good? I'm not about to have to **** with this tensioner anytime soon once I replace it but if they are nearly the same I wouldn't mind saving a couple bucks.. ...

 

[tompumped]

Dayco 84078 on RA is 43$. I'd rather use gates t41205, but i'm sure it's fine.

I know how bad it can be dealing with these cars. I can't believe I was stupid enough to buy another one that needed work after what I went through in the past. I have probably 4k in receipts in just parts in 2.5 years then I crashed it and stripped it to put the parts in another car.

 

[kevinspann]

See if another store can get you a tensioner quicker. If you order it online, that shit isn't getting to you before Wednesday...it probably wont ship until Monday

 

[vortex2450]

See if another store can get you a tensioner quicker. If you order it online, that shit isn't getting to you before Wednesday...it probably wont ship until Monday

Autozone told me Tuesday but that's nearly $100. So it seems it's really a matter of what price I wanna pay, stuff from rock auto usually get to me quick enough...


So will Gates T41205 be the correct tensioner?

The picture of the gates 41205 @ autopartswarehouse.com is a completely different tensioner, is that picture wrong??

I have the gates t41205 in my RA cart ready for checkout.... I need verification before I order the wrong part...

thanks,

-Josh

 

[kevinspann]

Looks right everywhere else - the picture on autopartswarehouse is incorrect.

for reference http://www.avanigroup.com/automotiv...il/gates-t41205-timing-belt-pulley-B001R5Z5SO

 

[vortex2450]

Then I'm ordering the Gates T41205....

I've thought about the fact that the car sat about 4-5 months before I bought it and the engine I swapped in also sat about 6 months, why is it that when car parts sit they tend to "go bad" per say and everything starts going out left and right? Ridiculous if you ask me...

 

[vortex2450]

As an update, I'm slowly drilling into the broken bolt to try and remove it using an extractor, is it a good or bad idea to heat the area up right before i try the extractor?

Wish me luck, I don't need to be lifting the engine up and out to drill out and heli coil the hole..

-Josh


EDIT:

Sucess!! I took my time doing this but I managed to get it out with the extractor!! The wrench that comes with the set is garbage, I used a plumbers wrench and gave it steady constant pressure. When the bolt first broke loose it make a loud "snap" which was a scary sound as all I could see was the extractor breaking..

Anyways, tahh dahh!!



And the hole is clear, this time no f-ups! (BTW the reason the tensioner came off is because I didn't tighten the 14mm nut because I found the nut lying in the timing cover, new rule: No working on the SHO when it's past dark, I'm tired, I'm hurrying or a combination of any of those, ) And I know the bit is way crooked, I did the best I could with a right angle drill...



I'm $70 out of pocket for the two home and then the cost of a tensioner but I'm so happy this worked out alright, so much releif now that I can put it back together (slowly)..

Or not, Just realized the stud from the ATX tensioner is too short, gahhh, can I get this from an auto store if hardware store??? or does anyone wanna do me a big favor and send me a MTX tenionser stud? haha

 

[moobypets]

or maybe ford still has those laying around i feel your pain since we all drive sho lol