Shiver

[Brian Smith]

I posted a thread thematically similar to this one a while back and got very little information. My car has a troubling shiver when I accelerate hard . Is this related to the clutch? Wheel balancing? Alignment? All three? It seems to have gotten worse...though i do concentrate on these sort of things and possibly exaggerate their symptoms...anyone else have this problem/solved this problem? Im trying to get my car in 100% top mechanical condition before I start moving in on my projects: suspension and braking capability. Input would be greatly appreciated .

 

[qiksho]

More than likely hub bearing or c/v joint.

Have had both cause quivering/shaking conditions in the SHO.

 

[Brian Smith]

Ouch...how does one diagnose this/check it? My CV joints *look* good and the shuddering is related to acceleration, not speed depended which would suggest the problem not being associated with the hub. My thought was it could perhaps be related to the subframe bushings? Perhaps they are improperly torqued (what is the proper torque?)/the bushings are shot...I dunno. Other suggestions?/How do I look into the above.

 

[Brian Smith]

certainly someone must have experienced something similar?

 

[SHO_Driver]

Will it shiver in neutral if you rev on it? If so could be engine related. If it only vibrates in gear while accelerating it could be an inner cv joint. To know for sure requires removing the driveshaft and checking for excessive play at the inner joint. If it was the clutch it would tend to also vibrate in neutral. For unbalanced/bent wheels it vibrate even while coasting. I doubt alignment would cause your symptom.

 

[Brian Smith]

yeah, reading older posts suggests that it might be worn inner cv joints...Does anyone have a diagnostic procedure/ replacement instructions for the inner CV joints? I may as well do inner and outers I guess since im sure neither have been replaced, and id have it apart anyway...should I replace halfshafts as well? Perhaps they have some sort of bend or imbalance...Any suggestions or a write up on the procedure would be great! thanks!

 

[Brian Smith]

ohh and this is an acceleration in gear issue, it is not an engine problem i dont think...

 

[Rob94]

When you replace a halfshaft, you are replacing the inner and outer cv joints. You can get a remanufactured halfshaft at NAPA for $65. Others suggest a more expensive half shaft. I don't know where or for how much. I replaced both of my halfshafts 2 yrs ago with the NAPA remans and have had no problems with them at all.

 

[qiksho]

The reason I know that a c/v axle could cause your symptoms is because I bought a remanufactured axle for my 89 from NAPA because my original boots were both torn, but the axle otherwise had no problems. I thought well might as well replace the whole thing . My REBUILT?? axle from NAPA lasted all of 300 miles before I had vibrations up the ying yang.

I wouldn't buy another axle from NAPA. I don't know what the rebuilt, but it looked alot like they just put new boots on the joints.

I have heard people say good things about www.raxles.com

IF/when I need another axle I will buy from them.

 

[Brian Smith]

cool, ill check out raxle. I have read this debate before, it seems like you are playing russian roulette with NAPA remans so i dunno. Who wants to do something twice...Anyone have a procedure for the halfshaft replacement?

 

[bradman]

Before you assume it's the half shaft, you should rule out a few other things that are easier to check such as:
-inner tie rods/tie rod ends
-motor mounts
-subframe bushings
-control arm ball joints

If they check out good, then move on to:
-half shafts
-clutch/flywheel

 

[Brian Smith]

I tested for motor mount issues. The engine moves less than .5 inch either forward or backwards. The subframe bushings I dont really know how to ckeck for, except to say that though old they arent torn or cracked or missing etc...Not sure how to check for the control ar/ball joint/tie rods/ends. These all appeared to be in good shape.
I dont know, it seems symptomatic of the halfshafts the more I read, vibration during hard acelleration and a lurchiness when the gas is applied or let off, as though there was some excessive play somewhere in the drivetrain between the engine and the tires. Admittedly I dont really enjoy the thought of taking another 150 dollar hit...hopefully it will be the last time I have to worry about it. If anyone has any info on checking the above from the first paragraph...also halfshaft replacement...I need a procedure...thanks!!

 

[Rob94]

Raise the front of the vehicle, letting the suspension hang loose. Grip the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and rock it. If there is any play, the wheel bearings and/or ball joints are bad. Then grip the wheel at the 9 and 3 o'clock position and do the same. Any play would indicate bad tie rods.

 

[delees77]

I've just replaced wheel bearings with the 96 break upgrade and while I was there replaced the half shafts. My advice is DO NOT USE REBUILT HALFSHAFTS. On the passenger side shaft there were still beads from shotblasting in the inboard spline. Had to thoroughly clean them out. The passenger side did not have a grease seal at the hub on it. Get new ones from Raxles, $120, not much different from the rebuilt cost.

Had the bearings installed by a "machine shop". Had considerable play in the wheel at 12 and 6 oclock positions. Took the knuckle off and had the hub and bearing replaced by the best machine shop in town. There is a right and wrong way to do this as detailed on this forum somewhere. You have to get a shop that knows what they are doing.

I still have a slight grinding noise in the front end when I turn left. Suspect the drivers side half shaft but I am not taking it apart yet. Barely noticible so I am going to drive it a while. If it is a halfshaft I will use the Raxles halfshaft.

 

[Brian Smith]

cool, further diagnosis to follow. Thanks for the replies!