Serios Problem???

[x-tream]

At idle the oil light is on and there is a bit of a knock. all fluids are good and it goes away at 1000rpm. only happens when warm and below 1000rpm. anyideas or is a for sale sign a good investment?

 

[BlownByU]

If you have an oil light comming on you shouldn't be running it. I think that the light flickers at like 5 psi and you should be running at least 10 at hot idle. How many miles are on it? mtx or atx? rod bearing ever been done?

 

[40BelowSummer]

yes, is it an mtx or atx like asked above and how many miles. Is it having an ideling problem what RPMs does it idle at?

If I were you i wouldnt be running it until you find out whats wrong.

 

[TYSHO]

At idle the oil light is on and there is a bit of a knock. all fluids are good and it goes away at 1000rpm. only happens when warm and below 1000rpm. anyideas or is a for sale sign a good investment?

I'd suggest that you take a look at, or replace, your rod bearings. For less than $100 in parts, it will extend the engine life. And when I say parts, I mean the gaskets, oil, filter, and bearings. Cheap fix!

The instructions on this can be found here: www.kurtmetros.com/bearings.html

 

[x-tream]

It has over 200k Killometers so it wouldn't suprise me if the rod bearings were gone. I am not familiar with MTX or ATX but if that means manual or atomatic trasmition then it is a manual. My uncle is a mechanic at a ford dealer and he came to look at it and it wouldn't do it when he was here. it doesn't have trouble ideling, it idles at around 850, and the light goes out at around 950 - 1000.

 

[40BelowSummer]

well if it has over 200K, knocking, and the oil light comes on then I would plan on at least dropping the oil pan and inspecting them for wear.

good luck

 

[BlownByU]

Do them ASAP, you will cause damage to the crank and the engine if you let it go any longer I'd suspect. Mine started to go and went to the point that the engine seized very fast. If you're uncle is gonna do it, tow it do not drive the car or you'll be doing a 3.2 swap sooner than you think.

 

[autobahnsho]

Do them ASAP, you will cause damage to the crank and the engine if you let it go any longer I'd suspect. Mine started to go and went to the point that the engine seized very fast. If you're uncle is gonna do it, tow it do not drive the car or you'll be doing a 3.2 swap sooner than you think.

Ditto what he said..

 

[x-tream]

Waht is the big difference between a MTX vs. ATX would the problem not be the same.

For those who have done this, how long has it taken you, or how long has it taken a shop to do it. I am capable of doing it my self but just wondering if it is worth the head ache.

 

[DHMag]

dude ! what happened ?!?!

Ditto what he said..

 

[TYSHO]

Waht is the big difference between a MTX vs. ATX would the problem not be the same.

For those who have done this, how long has it taken you, or how long has it taken a shop to do it. I am capable of doing it my self but just wondering if it is worth the head ache.

ATX or MTX, you need to fix it. It's the engine, not the tranny. I don't know who brought that up, but it doesn't matter if it's an ATX, BTX, CTX, DTX, and all the way up to MTX, then ZTX!

There's no headache, unless you're looking at your SHO sitting with a seized motor because you decided to go to the corner store real quick, or start it up to hear the motor.

Being your first time and taking things slow, anywhere from 5-7 hours. Know what your doing and nothing snaps/strips, 2-3 hours w/air tools from start to finish.

Good luck!

 

[somedude_001]

The instructions on this can be found here: www.kurtmetros.com/bearings.html

just thought now is a good time to repost that