Sealing the #%^@%!@ oil pan...

[Zap]

Either there is something I am missing, or I just suck at this... but I am seriously confused about sealing the oil pan. headbang headbang

I started by applying a generous amount of RTV, though I didn't appear to use all of the 3.35 oz tube that I had. I then began to raise the pan up to the block with a floor jack to help with the lifting so I could steady and make sure the pan went on straight. It went on ok on one side, but the other side was just a bit off. It didn't smear, so I figured I could move it and keep going. Before I got it all the way to where I could install bolts/nuts, I realized that the stupid side seal had totally moved around. slap

Are you supposed to install those seals first, and if so, how? They kept falling off the engine when I tried to get them to stay on there. Also, how much RTV is supposed to be used? I have a picture of the pan before I tried applying it, if that would help at all. Finally, are there any other tips that would help me do this correctly? I'm about to the point of torching everything madflame , cuz I've been working on this stupid project on the weekends for the last month and I'm tired of not being able to get it completed. All my free time (other than the tiny bit of time after work every day) is being spent on this car. rant

 

[SolidState]

a dab of super glue on both ends of the gaskets will keep the seals in place so you can properly seat the pan.

 

[DHMag]

Zap:
Either there is something I am missing, or I just suck at this... but I am seriously confused about sealing the oil pan. headbang headbang

I started by applying a generous amount of RTV, though I didn't appear to use all of the 3.35 oz tube that I had. I then began to raise the pan up to the block with a floor jack to help with the lifting so I could steady and make sure the pan went on straight. It went on ok on one side, but the other side was just a bit off. It didn't smear, so I figured I could move it and keep going. Before I got it all the way to where I could install bolts/nuts, I realized that the stupid side seal had totally moved around. slap

Are you supposed to install those seals first, and if so, how? They kept falling off the engine when I tried to get them to stay on there. Also, how much RTV is supposed to be used? I have a picture of the pan before I tried applying it, if that would help at all. Finally, are there any other tips that would help me do this correctly? I'm about to the point of torching everything madflame , cuz I've been working on this stupid project on the weekends for the last month and I'm tired of not being able to get it completed. All my free time (other than the tiny bit of time after work every day) is being spent on this car. rant

on the end seals, place a dab of RTV at each end and in the middle. then apply your RTV around the pan. using the RTV on the end seals is just to hold it in place while you relocate the pan. doing this first allows the RTV to cure and "set" the seals. after applying your RTV bead around the pan, wait about 10 minutes (if its above 60 degrees in the garage), then fit the pan to the block. its recommended that you let the RTV start to cure before setting it. also, you dont want too much RTV on the pan, as it will squeaze itself inside the pan, possibly creating a blocked oil passage later. put a heavy bead in the crevices, and place a ~4mm bead around the outside edge.

 

[Bizzy]

like others have said, use a bit of RTV on the seals to hold them in place on the block. This is what super cleanliness there is important. I ran the bead of RTV on my oil pans, and on the winter beater since it was ~40F in the garage I was working on, after I got the pan installed I used a small ceramic heater aimed so the heat rose up and warmed the pan and RTV. It was nice cause the heat rose thru the engine compartment and kept the engine bay nice and warm while I did a quick check and flip of the shims. I think I left the heater on there for the better portion of a day to make sure the RTV was curing before hitting it with oil again.

I would be wary about using superglue, from what I know about rubber and the compounds in SG they do not react well to eachother, and could slightly disolve the rubber. Also would create a hard lump of glue on a smooth surface. I make it a pilt to use the RTV.

 

[Off Road SHO]

SolidState:
a dab of super glue on both ends of the gaskets will keep the seals in place so you can properly seat the pan.

Teg,

Great idea, why didn't I think of that.

Tom

 

[masho95]

High tack gasket sealant would work too. I used this on the rear carrier seal gasket to make it stay in place when I changed it out. I'm sure it'd work the same. Same stuff Josh T. uses in the clutch video.

 

[Zap]

Thanks guys... I appreciate the suggestions! I suppose it is a bit sad if this is my worst problem (as if this should freak me out more than removing the rod caps!)

I wanted to clarify if what Dale is saying is to bead the grooves, which I did, but then to apply a bead in front of the grooves AND the rest of the areas too?

 

[Rockledge]

masho95:
High tack gasket sealant would work too. I used this on the rear carrier seal gasket to make it stay in place when I changed it out. I'm sure it'd work the same. Same stuff Josh T. uses in the clutch video.

I must have read through some of the earlier posts that mentioned this stuff because it's what I ended up using to hold up the end pan gaskets when I did my rod bearing job. Worked well...I recommend letting it set a few minutes after applying it so that it gets a little tacky first.

<small>[ February 01, 2004, 03:47 PM: Message edited by: Rockledge ]</small>

 

[luigisho]

thumb I love that stuff. Really helps when you want to reuse a gasket or a seal too.

 

[DHMag]

Zap:
I wanted to clarify if what Dale is saying is to bead the grooves, which I did, but then to apply a bead in front of the grooves AND the rest of the areas too?

Yes, thats what i did.